BM806 heavy duty?

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knife_nut73

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Jun 25, 2006
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Would you consider the BM 806 to be a heavy duty folder?

I haven't had this knife long and the AXIS lock is fairly new to me. My other folder is the Spyderco Chinook II, and I don't know if its fair to compare the 2. The chinook has a thicker blade, and very thick lock back. The 806 has a thinner blade of D2, with the AXIS lock which I read is very tough.

Is the 806 on the same heavy duty level as the Chinook or manix? Or is it in a different class?
 
The 806 is very heavy duty, I would not expect it to fail unless something is wrong with the lock. The Chinook (and Manix?) have MBC-rated locks, which basically means that they have been tested not to disengage when blocking with the knife, for example.

So yes, the 806 is a heavy duty knife, but it is not MBC-rated (big deal :p ).
 
The whole "MBC" rated lock, is a Spyderco thing... It really cannot be related to other knives. It is impossible to say the AFCK is "MBC Rated" even if it was. I would not hesitate to compare the two locks... Also keep in mind, the Chinook and Manix are just Rocker Locks... Get some lint in the cut out of the tang, and it is worthless! I have never had that problem with an Axis Lock (or Spyderco's Ball Bearing Lock or Compression Lock, for that matter).

The 806 is a classic. I would not worry about the 806 giving you any trouble. Just remember it is a knife, and a folding one at that. It should do anything (with in reason) you want a knife to do.

If you told me, the only knife I could have for the rest of my life, was an 806. I could live with that. :)
 
thanks for the reply guys, very informative!


I realize you shouldn't pry with a folder, they're not ment for that. My question suppose its all you had, do you think the 806 thinner D2 blade could take some light prying? Would the lock break? I had a screen in a window that was stuck, and almost tried to pry it with the 806 but didn't want to risk it. Made me wonder if I had to, would I still have a whole knife.
 
knife_nut73 said:
thanks for the reply guys, very informative!


I realize you shouldn't pry with a folder, they're not ment for that. My question suppose its all you had, do you think the 806 thinner D2 blade could take some light prying? Would the lock break? I had a screen in a window that was stuck, and almost tried to pry it with the 806 but didn't want to risk it. Made me wonder if I had to, would I still have a whole knife.
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I wouldn't be concerned about the lock breaking. I would be concerned about putting lateral pressure on the blade tip which certainly could cause the tip to snap off.

Remember, the 806 is a knife,a cutting tool, and not a pry bar. Sure, there are other blades out there that touted to chop through cinder blocks, etc., but part of that strength is by designing a heavier, thicker blade, that can take that kind of abuse.

If you take that same thick, concrete chopping blade, even if you "sharpen" the edge, how well do you think it would cut compared to one with a thinner blade?

Personally, I'd avoid prying with the 806 and use a tool better suited for the job, like a screwdriver...or a pry bar.
 
Prying - why do we use knives to pry with?

When I was younger, I snapped a few blades doing it (despite knowing better).

I've come to the opinion that a blade needs to be at least 3/16 inch thick and have a thick point to be used for light prying (for me, anyway). I've yet to break my CS TrailMaster, for example. Thinner blades have worked, but I've (and seen) snapped thinner ones too often to do it unless I "have" to.
 
My experience is that you will break the blade before the Axis Lock fails...

If you pry with most knives, you are rolling the dice as to losing a tip or most of the blade.

Lock strength is not the issue to worry about with prying. The 806 blade proflie and thickness don't make it the best for prying.
 
Thats pretty much what I figuared. I always have a Howling Rat with me for the harder stuff.


The 806 is certainly a fine cutter. What do you all think makes a better edc? Chinook II or 806?
 
I think the 806. It is much slimmer in the pocket and carries easier.
 
I like the handle of the BM 800 series full size knives.

Good indexing, plenty of grip possibilities, and not too thick.

The biggest negative for them is the length.

In regard to the Chinook, is it not heavier and blockier?
 
Speaking from experience here, the blade on an 806D2 definatly does break before the handle or lock. I was prying quite heavily with the upper portion of one. I knew it was abuse, but it was all I had at the time. I lost about 2-inches of the blade. Its a "custom stubby" AFCK now after my amature reprofiling attempt.
 
My 806D-2 has served me well. I only use my knives for cutting. The 806 does a great job and has served me well for a few years. No problems ever.
I too agree that if I was only allowed to have one knife ; it would be my BM 806. It would be ashame to dammage such a nice knife. They are a little on the pricey side now that they are no longer in production
Jay
 
Django606 said:
I think the 806. It is much slimmer in the pocket and carries easier.
Click to expand...

Agreed for the same reasons; tho' the Chinook II is a great heavy duty knife
 
I would call it heavy duty , if you want a pocket pry bar get a small Stanley Wunderbar or a Peter Atwood bug out bar .

Chris
 
jimmy123 said:
How does the BM806 compare to the HK34? Anyone have an opinion on this?

http://newgraham.com/detail.aspx?ID=5132
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One is long and lean, the other is thick and stout...

The HK 34 (BM 14200-ish) is a fine knife. More in the class of the 420 and 520. Its' fit and finish are amazing.

And seeing that it is in production (unlike the 806) that would give it a big edge for me! Those who have one really like it.
 
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