Bob Marshall Wilderness Open

Joined
Sep 27, 2009
Messages
2,656
What is it? it is a very low key, unorganized "race" across the Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex in Montana. No entry fee, no prizes, no t-shirts :D This is the fourth year of the event and this year started near Holland Lake on the SW edge of Bob and finished at Swift Reservoir in the NE. The rules are few, must travel under your own power- foot, ski, snowshoe, raft and must remain in the Bob Complex. Everyone starts at the same location and everyone finishes (that's if you finish!) at the same location. The route is up to you. Every year the start and finish locations change, sometimes it's north to south, east to west, etc. The Bob is huge and there are dozens and dozens of routes to look at (100's if you look at off trail options). The shortest route often proves not to be the quickest. Routes will vary in length from around 100, up to 150 miles.

The event is always held at the end of May which presents several major challenges. In May you always have snow to contend with (and multiple passes to get through) and you always have swollen rivers and creeks to ford (and for the daring to float)- too many to even count. Trail crews won't be out until early to mid June, so there is close to nine months of blow down to contend with, if you're traveling on trails (sometimes off trail routes are chosen to save time). Bailing is very difficult because of the remoteness of the country and can amount to very long miles just to call it quits. Weather can run the gamut, snowstorms this time of year are not out of the ordinary. Of course grizzlies are coming out of their long sleep and on the hunt for food just to add to the ambiance :)

here's a quick and dirty trip report, I could probably write a small volume about it, but will spare you all :D

We started promptly at 8:00 AM at Holland Lake which sits in the Swan Range in the SW corner of the Bob Marshall Complex, the climb out of the valley was steep, but the trail was in great shape and the weather was perfect (nice and cool)

before the start
thestart_zpsw2xpxlvz.jpg




Holland Lake (Mission Mountains in the background)

hollandlake_zpszl6dx8te.jpg


We made good time up to upper Holland Lake, but quickly ran into a lot of snow which slowed the going, it also complicated our route finding significantly

snowaboveholland_zpswsafegtl.jpg


We elected to take Gordon Pass (most teams headed for Pendant Pass) as this would allow us to forego fording (read swimming!) the South Fork of the Flathead, the gauging station show the SF ramping up leading up to the start, the flip side it added 8 miles to get to White River Park are destination for Day 1 (34 miles vs 26 miles via Pendant Pass and Hollbrook Ck.

dropping into Gordon Ck

headofholland_zpsenzxdniv.jpg


we found grizzly sign in every drainage we travelled, but Gordon Ck was king for how much we saw, you couldn't go 200 yards without tripping over a pile of crap!

grizztrack_zpsjou6qhus.jpg


grizzpoop_zpsvy3adc5i.jpg


We ate supper after we crossed the S Fork (via one of only two pack bridges) about 28 miles in, as we ate supper we all were very glad we didn't try to swim lower down

this was a strategy we used throughout the trip, eating supper at 7-8:00 PM on the trail- it gave us a much needed calorie boost, a definite morale boost, much needed rest and avoided cooking/eating near our sleep site to keep Mr Griz moving down the trail :D

Big Prairie pack bridge

bigprairiebridge_zpsyclp0ont.jpg


We hiked another 5-ish miles in (an hour with headlamps) and called it good about a mile shy of White River Park, 33 hard fought miles for the day

We woke early and decided to eat breakfast at White River Park and take advantage of the water nearby, we passed a team from Big Fork that were still bivied up, we never saw them again though

The White provided some good views (including Needle Falls), but some sketchy fords (we had to ford it twice)

downthewhite_zpselfxp45r.jpg


needlefalls_zpsenbkbx23.jpg


at the head end of the White we headed straight up for Wall Ck Pass that separates the SF drainage from the Spotted Bear River drainage, it was a good slug up to the pass, but snow free, once over the pass is where we hit a bunch of snow again

this is where we hit our first real snag, the trail on the gps (both the Garmin and Gaia) turned out to be a long abandoned trail, we spent over two hours wading through snow and blow down trying to find a pretty much nonexistent trail- we finally bit the bullet and just followed the mainstem creek downstream, knowing it would eventually cross the real trail or ultimately Spotted Bear, fortunately it was the former and we were back in business, plenty tired, but back in business

headed down into Wall Ck

intowallck_zpsocrvyrl0.jpg


our next worry was the ford at the Spotted Bear, turned out to be a straight forward ford without much drama (downstream was a different story where one team had to bail because of no safe ford)

we soon found our selves at Pentagon Cabin and called it day, 31 tough miles logged

Pentagon cabin

pentagoncabin_zpsmuaoppbv.jpg


we rose early and started for our next big obstacle, Switchback Pass which we lead us out of the Spotted Bear and into the Middle Fork of the Flathead drainage, we knew this pass would hold plenty of snow, my worry was on the north side of the pass where navigation and the moving was going to be tough

we made pretty good time up to the pass and were rewarded with some stellar views

switchbackpass_zpspye344nz.jpg


PentagonMtn_zps0zgoduiw.jpg


things got a little spooky after the pass, we made a long steep sidehill to get to Dean Lake where we thought we might be able to pick up the trail

abovedeanlake_zps0ndyqz3b.jpg


we found Dean Lake, but the trail was not to be seen, we relied on the gps and maps to keep us going in the right direction, if we veered too much one way or the other, we were headed for a real jackpot

snow conditions were getting worse and we often found ourselves breaking through, after what seemed an eternity, we finally found where the trail dropped off and led into a series of short, steep switchbacks into Clack Ck, we made pretty good time once we hit terra firma and soon found ourselves at our next obstacle, fording the Middle Fork

the ford was swift but doable, only to find that we had only forded half the Middle Fork, the second half was worse- after seeing Kevin just about swept away, John and I decided to try our hand at crossing a log jam; John made it across- I made it about halfway and slipped, fortunately I was able to get back up and make it to the bank

fordingmiddleck_zpsjfpic7z5.jpg


middleforkford_zpsbinz9ney.jpg


we now headed up Strawberry Ck which is the headwaters for the Middle Fork; this area burned severely in 88 and left miles and miles of standing dead timber, unfortunately with no trail crews in for the last nine months this made for some really slow, grinding miles

blowdown_zpsj4ncexvj.jpg


we stopped about 8:00 PM to rest and eat supper, we had a tough decision to make- do we push through the night and try to get out to meet our 72 hour goal or take another day, Kevin did some simple math and determined that we wouldn't make it out until 3-4:00 AM- that made our decision pretty easy, we would hike another two hours and call it a day

John catching up on calories

johnstillgood_zpsajcsef6r.jpg


we went through Gateway Gorge which was drop dead gorgeous

gatewaygorge_zpsqfhihe5s.jpg

we found a nice spot to camp and got some well earned shuteye after 28 tough miles


arose early and headed out for our last 16 miles of our journey

as turned out we made another good decision, while the blowdown was less of a problem snow and mud would make for some really tough miles and more importantly we would have missed out on some really nice scenery

Gateway Pass and into SF of Birch Ck

gatewaypass_zpsawhwxfdt.jpg


downbirchck_zpsndqcaqaj.jpg


morebirchck_zpsmfl9acrb.jpg


at 1:30 PM we made it to Swift Reservoir with some cold beers waiting :) we also met up with the organizer who had finished a couple of hours earlier and was waiting for his wife to pick him, was nice to share each others adventures

thebirch_zpshp0r5ord.jpg
 
Last edited:
30 miles a day under those conditions is impressive! Congratulations. :thumbup:
 
Amazing journey, and great pictures - thanks for sharing. I'm with Bob W - 30 miles a day out there is something else!
 
I consider myself a tough SOB, but that would kill this Flat-lander. Well done! I have my Heart set on the BMW for my next MT. fishing trip.:thumbup:
 
thanks for the kind words Gents!

as challenging as it was, we've already been talking about what we would do/bring different next year :)
 
Since this is a knife forum, I'm dying to know what sort of pocketknife you and the other guys carried, if you did. Did you have one shared knife for the group by any chance?
 
Amazing accomplishment! I salute you and the other participants.

Thanks for the photos and commentary!

Eric
 
Thanks gents!

Since this is a knife forum, I'm dying to know what sort of pocketknife you and the other guys carried, if you did. Did you have one shared knife for the group by any chance?

Yup we all carried knives; there was a chance someone would have to bail and the team continue, so everyone needed to be self sufficient if necessary. I carried a BR UL Bushcrafter and a lightened Fiskars saw as there was a high probability that we would need a fire after a forced swim to ford one of the rivers (thankfully that never came to pass). The other guys carried SA Farmers- decent blade, decent saw and the screw driver ends could help with snowshoe repairs.

If we do it again I don't foresee any big changes in the knife end of things; I would bring the saw again as well.
 
Thank you very much for the informative reply. :thumbup:

I know a "pocketknife" is one of the Ten Essentials that every person should have on them at all times when in the wilderness. I was curious if you made an adjustment to that 'rule' considering the competitive nature of the event.
 
^ we trimmed down our packs pretty good, but also tried to build in a margin of safety too- it was definitely a balancing act

we tried to err on the side of caution where we could- needing to get a large fire going quickly, in marginal conditions, was definitely one of the scenarios we anticipated

several challenges on gear selection, but clothing was really a challenge
 
Back
Top