Here's my take on it.
You can grumble, but fix it, and be happy.
Or you can settle for the way it is since you're frustrated, and then spend forever explaining why it isn't right.
Bolsters are pretty easy as long as you have a sequence of steps that will work every time.
First you want to clamp up a piece of bolster stock to one side of the blade. Then clamp it in the drill press. You want to have a way to do this so that the holes in the tang (for bolsters) are in line with the spindle of the drill press. If you don't have a tapered tang, this isn't an issue.
Kant-Twist clamps work extremely well for this sort of clamping. You can also use small C-clamps or vise-grips...so long as the bolster is clamped FLAT to the blade.
I like to drill 3 - 3/32"holes in my bolsters. I ream the hole after drilling with a tapered reamer (a cone dremel bit will work) to give the pin room to expand. I DON'T like the enlarge the entire hole, as when you put everything together it will slip-slide around on you.
Drill one bolster. Take it apart, clamp bolster stock on the other side, of the blade, clamp it up, and drill.
Take the two bolster pieces, put them together with the pins, and shape them to your desired shape.
Finish the front face, as it will be nearly impossible to finish that face when the bolsters are in place.
Put them on the blade and try-fit the pins. Everything should be lined up and square.
Take it all apart, clean everything with acetone, and then put it all back together.
When you peen the pins, do a little on one side, and then flip it and do a little on the other side. Continue this until you can really give them some hell. Don't go overboard though, or you can damage the front or rear face of the bolster...and have to start over.
If you do this carefully, you will have to cut and grind the bolsters right down to the blade in order to get them off.
Be careful with the brass as it's really soft and can mushroom out on you. Or, just get rid of it and use 416
Good luck!
Nick