Ignore my previous answer. I see that it was a gap between the bolster and the blade. Adam has the correct answer ... re-do it. Silver soldering or low-temp solder will work , but in many cases pinning the bolsters is done.
Many times the gap comes from trying to hammer the pins hard in order to close the gaps. The more you hammer the more the gap opens. This is from several reasons:
1) The pin hole through the blade is too snug a fit to the pin. There has to be some room. I use 10% oversize for the hole as a general rule. This allows the pin to expand when peened. Yes, the whole pin expands to some degree, not just the peened ends. If it is tight in the hole the expansion will make a bulge at the blade junction and lift the bolster up a tad. No amount of hammering will make it sit back down. Chamfering the tang holes and the underside holes on the bolster helps prevent this, too.
2) The holes through the bolster need to be a proper fit for the same reasons. Just a comfortable slip fit is best. AND, the holes need to be tapered with a reamer. This allows the pin to flare the all the way through the bolster, not just make a lump at the surface ... which will be ground away in finishing. A tapered hole is many times stronger and will also be tighter. Many folks just chamfer the end of a straight drilled hole, peen the pin, and hope it holds snug after finishing- it rarely does.
3) Additionally, if you pound hard on the bolsters while peening, the metal will stretch and start to lift along the edges. Hammering the edges to close the gaps will often make it worse.
