Bolsters and rubber handle? Input needed

[Backyard]

My latest that is out at peters heat treat right now

For the large chopper (or is it a machete?) and maybe the second knife too, I was thinking about trying out some of the horse stall mats for handle scales. I have a few mats so cutting out a piece is no problem.

What I am debating is should I try my hand at adding a bolster to it also? How about one on the end of the handle too? What is that called? Butt cap? Not really a cap so...

I dont really want to add more weight then necessary. So I was thinking about trying out some aluminum for the bolster. I know it will get dinged and scratced but this is my machete so I don't care. With horse stall mats it won't win any beauty contest anyways

Another plus for aluminum is it is easy to work with and I am no expert in in making them so I'll take all the help I can get.

The negative is it wont be able to be soldered on which I was hopping to do. I've tried soldering aluminum for years, using all sorts of specialty fluxes and what not with minimal success. And I'm no dummy with solder. I've been soldering most my life and have soldered just about all normal metals and aloys and aluminum is the only one to give me this trouble. This leave epoxy and pins/fasteners. But I was hoping to not have to drill any more holes then necessary right at the stress point on the handle

Otherwise I can do away with the bolster and just go with the rubber handle or micarta handle.

I'll try and draw something up tonight to let you know what I am thinking on the shape and you can tell me yes or no

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I make military chute knives with front and rear bolsters and rubber/horse stall mat. It works very well and never gets slipery in the hand.
Put the rubber on with a black rubber bonding epoxy and use black micarta or carbon fiber pins.

Aluminum will work fine, but on a knife that large a little handle weight from nickel bolsters may be a good thing.

 

[Backyard]

yeah, because of the problems with aluminum I may use another material. I did look at my photos and found out that my holes are already right where I would need them for the bolsters so maybe I can still use aluminum.

this is kind of what I was thinking. drew up several versions to look at. thinking I want to try out the first one

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

#1 or #2 should work. I recommend three pins in the rubber, but since you only have two, epoxy a hard liner behind the rubber will help to keep the ends secure. . A thin backing strip of G-10 would be a good choice.

If only using two pins in the handle, I would switch to Corby bolts. You can even use those to attach the aluminum or nickel bolsters.

Or, you can drill some more holes in the tang where you want them. Extra holes are almost never a problem.

 

[Backyard]

I was thinking of #1 too as it may help a little to lock in the ends of the rubber.

I have been thinking about using a thin liner but I currently don't have any. Maybe I can find a suitable substitute. Didn't really want to have to order a bunch of different items again, but will if it comes to that.

I had a really difficult time drilling the holes it does have and that was before sending it out for hardening. Had to shapen my bits a dozen times. Even used and broke several sharpened carbide tipped concrete bits. I was lucky enough to get the holes I have. I will try again when then come back but I don't have high hopes of making many more

I have white fiberglass, aluminum and steel pins. I also have 1/4" stainless tubing that I was planning on using for this with flared ends but that was before I was thinking about adding bolsters. I also have some sex bolts that may work too but would need to countersink them into the bolsters. Not sure it that would look right. Maybe aluminum pins for the bolsters and stainless tubing for the rubber?

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Use what you have if it is not possible to get better materials and tools..

The issues you will come upon are:
Only one pin per bolster. That is going to be a real problem in use, as the bolsters may turn.
No pins near the ends of the rubber may allow the rubber to lift at the ends in heavy use. Good grade rubber bonding epoxy will help deter this a lot.
The flared tubing might work, but flaring stainless tube isn't all that simple. Brass or nickel tube might be a better choice.
If you use Corby bolts and JB weld on the bolsters you have a chance of them staying put.

I will tell you what I tell everyone who asks:
Trying to save a dollar or two and ending up with a lesser quality knife is poor logic.
Order some aluminum 1/4" Corby bolts for the bolsters and rubber, some rubber bonding epoxy and black dye, and a sheet of .030 Black G-10. Do it right.
Order 1/4" and a 5/16" carbide bit and learn how to use it.
Take the bits and a blade or two to a friend who is a good machinist, or take it to a small machine shop ... and ask them to show you how to drill holes with a carbide bit. BTW, If you are trying to use a hand drill, that is the problem.
Plan ahead to the end before starting the beginning. That will prevent ending up with a blade that is HTed and the wrong number of holes.

Some comments on the knife:
On the next long knife, buy a wider piece of steel so you can put a slight curve in the blade and handle. As it is, it is sort of a sharpened bar of steel. Again, saving a few dollars and getting a less useful and attractive knife is poor economy.
The handle appears to be about 12" and the blade 15". The finger groove is 10" from the butt ( how big is your hand?). That is way out of proportion for even a Japanese sword. Around 7" to 8" would have been more than enough. Just finish it as is and pre-plan the next one. Making a wooden model is a good idea on long knives. Long knives and swords are not just stretched out shorter knives. There is a whole different set of dynamics and parameters.

 

[Backyard]

Thanks for the input. I'll see if I can answer and address all your points.

This one is definitely my most expensive "budget build". If needed I can purchase other items for it but was hoping to be able to figure out solutions with cheap or easy to obtain items (other then the 3V of course). It is part of my goal, with budget, availability and time to see what I end up with. Of course I could double the time and money spent but then it would probably be more efficient to just buy one at that point. This is just a fun hobby for me and to overcome little obstacles without taking too much of my money. I have more time then I have money so I tend to work with that

I have several gallons of epoxy (if I ask I can get my hands on 20+ gallons) and black tint, black polyurethane (Sika 1A) and loctite CA glue. These are what I have used to secure handles in the past. I am going to do a bond test with the polyurethane to see how well it bonds to rubber and steel (It should per the manufacturer). If it works well then that will help a bunch. Otherwise its up to the CA glue or ordering something else.

If I epoxy the bolsters on and chanfere the hole and peen the pin over do you think it would strong enough to withstand rotating? If not then maybe a smaller hidden pin that doesn't protrude through the surface?

I designed the handle for being able to choke up on it and use your wrist to do lighter chopping/swings. Then if you need more power or reach you can hold it further back. Or if you want hold it with both hands for maximum power. The one I made for my mother's friend was of similar design and I liked the way it felt and worked. So I decided to make something like that for me. But being he is quite a bit bigger and stronger than me I lightened it up. Even without the handles it felt pretty good with nice control. Balance was a little forward heavy, and I think the added weight of the handle will balance it out. I just don't want the overall weight too high but still have some to chop well. I would like to be able to go backpacking with it and not weight me down excessively

Yes, I'll admit I was drilling all of the holes by hand. I didn't get my drill press until a few days ago. I know that was a large contributer to the carbide braking. With my drill press I will give it another try when they arrive back.

I've read of a few people using rubber pins made out of large O rings for rubber handles. Do you think this would be a better option than the stainless tubing? I can probably get my hands on a few of those vacuum belts that look like large O rings or at least something similar to them.

If all else fells I could go back to my original plan with micarta

 

[Natlek]

I've read of a few people using rubber pins made out of large O rings for rubber handles. Do you think this would be a better option than the stainless tubing? I can probably get my hands on a few of those vacuum belts that look like large O rings or at least something similar to them.

If all else fells I could go back to my original plan with micarta

I use contact cement and pins from rubber for this handle , this is the fourth season I use this Parang and handle is like first day ! If ever fall I will glue it again .........in five minutes !

 

[RedFury]

I have the nasty habit of using whatever is lying around but it never occurred to me to use Horse mat for handle scales. I threw away several old mats last week. I have used small pieces for padded vice jaws but never thought of putting them on a knife.

 

[Natlek]

I have the nasty habit of using whatever is lying around but it never occurred to me to use Horse mat for handle scales. I threw away several old mats last week. I have used small pieces for padded vice jaws but never thought of putting them on a knife.

I don t know what is Horse mat .I use medium hard rubber for handle on this tool and I can say that I will never again use wood on tool like this one .Difference is like day and night .

 

[Backyard]

That looks like it was done pretty good.

Now that I think about it, I do have some weldwood contact cement. Not the water based kind but the good smelly stuff. Think that will do it?

I use contact cement and pins from rubber for this handle , this is the fourth season I use this Parang and handle is like first day ! If ever fall I will glue it again .........in five minutes !

 

[Backyard]

got my goods back from Peter's.

decided to forgo the bolster in the rear and just do one in the front. overall I think it is progressing nicely. I need to put the pins in, finish shaping the handle (probably about 90% now), do some finish sanding, make a sheath and put an edge on it.

some photos since I know you guys love them

 

[Backyard]

pinned the bolster. almost cant tell its there . also pinned the handle

also started on making a sheath out of thin wall PVC pipe. put it in my vacuum press and heated it up with a heat gun until it flattened out. still needs a lot of work but the hard part is done.