Bolsters on Khukuris, are they hollow or solid?

B

Broken Arrow

Joined
Dec 1, 1999
Messages
651
Greeting everyone, I was wondering if the brass bolster on the Khukuris is solid or hollow? If they are hollow or solid, does a portion of the handle (wood or horn) fit into it? Any information would be helpful. Thanks..
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Assuming we're both talking about the brass piece between the blade and the grip, it's thin brass that's slipped down the tang and then filled with that HI "Gorilla snot" epoxy from hell
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. The grip then goes in behind it. I suspect that the forward edge of the grip is left rough or otherwise unpolished so that the glue forms a strong bond with it.

You should also realize that the brass these guys are using is an abnormally tough grade. I believe Bill mentioned it seemed similar to a marine grade brass seen stateside.

Upshot: you'll have one HELL of a hard time denting or dislodging it. Getting the kamis a supply of thick brass would be theoretically better but what's in use now works. A solid bolster would also change the balance...

Jim
 
Pakcik Bill.
Is dipping the Khukuri handle into hot boil water can soften the epoxy? Can I use this technique to unfasten the handle from the tang?
 
Mohd: Bill will tell you how long it takes in boiling water to soften the Himalayan epoxy.

But that brings up something I wanted to ask! To take the handle off, you gotta file off the tang end peened ( mushroomed ) over the diamond shaped keeper. That shortens the tang. If you shorten the grip a bit, then no problem, but what if you want to keep the grip as it is, just reinforce the inside with epoxy and put it back together. Nobody ( that I can remember at least ) has ever talked about cold hammering the soft tang under the grip ( while the grip is off ) to stretch the rat tail part of the tang out longer so it can be re-peened without changing all the other stuff. Yvsa, Bill, did I explain that well enough you understand what I'm talking about? Any comments or observations?
 
:
You got it right Rusty.
The tang is dead soft as it should be and can be lengthed by hammering.Just remember to not get to close to the end if you want to use the same keeper.
I haven't had to lengthen one very much as of yet.
A 1/32" doesn't hurt that much to take off the handle length.You don't need much to peen over the keeper.

BA there is a tad of the handle material in the brass bolster.
Jim had it right when he said it was left rough on the end.Makes for one tough bolster.

Mohd it doesn't take long to take the handle off when it is put in the boiling water.
You have to do as Rusty said and file or grind the peened area of the steel off to get the keeper loose.
I take a strong thin bladed knife and slip it under or pound it under the keeper with a rawhide mallet.
It usually pops right off.The butt cap will come of with the handle.

I usually prop the khukuri up in a pan of hot wate on a burner on the stove to make sure it won't tip over.
I then turn the burner on and bring it to a boil.
Very carefully use Thick hotpads to remove the khukuri from the water ad carefully pull the handle off.
Also be very careful of the "Gorilla Snot" as Jim puts it because it will actually stick to your skin like tar and burn you badly!

Let me know if I didn't explain it well and I will try again.
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I use a steel wool soap embeded pad to clean what epoxy off the pan that may get on it.My wife hasn't hollered at me yet.(vbeseg)

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>>>>---¥vsa---->®

If you mix milk of magnesia with vodka and orange juice do you get a phillips screwdriver?

Khukuri FAQ




[This message has been edited by Yvsa (edited 25 December 1999).]
 
Thanks everyone for all this information! Isn't it wonderfull, that some thing made of plastice, IC chips, wires, and some electricity lets us communicate and share information? Thanks again guys!..
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