Bone Handle Tutorial Please

A

AlaskanHunter

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Nov 23, 2013
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A friend of mine wants me to make him a hunting knife- nothing fancy, just a 4.5" drop point. No problem, I've made several before-- but he wants a bone handle. A little over a week ago, he shot a very nice bull moose (70"+). Plenty of good bone there. So now I've got a project with sentimental value attached, and no clue where to start. I have several large diameter pieces of moose femur that are cleaned of all meat, fat, marrow, and other tissue. I think its just a straightforward job of cutting scales, sanding flat, and attach with glue and pins.
Have any of you done this sort of project before? Can any of you advise how to proceed? I seem to have a vague recollection of a WIP on a bear bone handle a few years back, but haven't been able to locate it via the search.
And while I have the floor, may I be so bold to request a tutorial of sticky quality? Many times I have wished for a sticky on handles, bolsters, and guards. The HT and Beginner stickies are excellent quality, and I'd really like to see handle making covered in similar detail.

Keenan
 
Leg bone of moose is great stuff to make knife handles from. I've done many. Some will finish up like mammoth ivory if not dyed. The lower part of the leg are the best pieces to use. Cut the pieces oversize in length and then cut down the middle for the two sides. Slowly boil in some water with TSP. If you don't know what this is ask you wife. After a half hour or so drain after allowing the water and all to cool without adding any cold water and do the same again Again let it cool without adding cold water. Now you are ready to flatten the inside of the bone pieces and fit. I have always made these for full tang knives and folders.
Frank
 
A few clarification questions, please.
TSP is an abbreviation for Tri-Sodium Phosphate? Roughly how much powder to water? Teaspoon per gallon? Cup per gallon?
I'm guessing that the flattening is in some sort of press plates? Will two pieces of 2" lumber, all-thread, and some wing nuts be sufficient pressure? Or do I need to scrounge up some flat steel for the plates?
Do I press flat and allow to dry in the press?
Should I let the bone cool to room temp before pressing or just enough to handle with out burning myself?
You mentioned finishing it like mammoth ivory. Is that just a fine polish? Are there ways to make a less slippery surface that still looks good? I've looked at "jigged" bone, but that usually seems to be an attempt to imitate stag- not quite what I want here (I have access to more antler than I'll ever use). Would a lite checkering be worth looking into? Keep in mind that while I want this to be appealing to the eye, this will be primarily a user rather than a safe queen.
Thank you for your help,
Keenan
 
Okay, I will try to help. TSP is tri sodium phosphate. Use lots of water and three or four tablespoons of TSP.
Have you cut that bone yet? There will not be any "pressing" You must grind or cut away the material to work it. Let the bone cool to room temperature. Do not cool with cold water.Yes you can finish it down and then polish it or you can carve or jig it.
Frank
 
Thank you for your help Mr.Niro.
I have 6 pieces of bone, still in the round. All I have done is cut off the joint ends and removed decomposable tissue. The shortest is just under 6", the longest is just over 12". I figured that it would give me plenty of material for my mistakes, and if there is any leftover, I can save it for future handles.
I think I may have some misconceptions about the process. Since your comments imply that the TSP/water simmering is not to soften the bone for flattening, what does it do? Degrease and whiten?
Also, I don't have a band saw available. Can I safely cut it on a table saw if I build a wooden cradle for it and push it through nice and slow on a sharp fine tooth blade? That works well for antler, but I'm a bit worried about bone shards. Alternatively, I could use a sawzall with a metal blade or a high tension hacksaw- much slower and less precise, but probably safer?
You have stressed the importance of not cooling the bone with cold water several times, so I understand that it's critical to a successful job- perhaps even a major safety point. Can you explain the "why" to me?
While grinding, can I use water to cool the bone, or will that have detrimental effects on the bone?
After the grinding, can I treat it like other handle materials- drilling pins, epoxy (probably G-flex or acraglass), and peening pins?
Are there any other things abut bone that I need to be aware of/ careful about?
Thanks again,
Keenan
 
Alaskan Hunter, it seems like you have already gotten good info about bone handles with slabs. But, just in case you are open to a different approach now or in the future, here is what I do with bear bone handles. The bone stays "in the round" is cut to an appropriate length (table saw or chop saw both work fine) and the tang of the knife is run all the way through the cleaned up bone, threaded at the back end and secured to a brass rear plate with a brass acorn nut. There is also a brass plate at the front of the handle and the entire bone cavity is filled with plumber's epoxy. Here is one I finished recently:

I have made a bunch of these, all from bear bones. Good luck. Steve
 
I will just add another question. How soon can Franks process be applied to a handle? Does it need to dry out for some time?
 
Yes the TSP is to clean the bone. Doing it twice is just to make sure .I have always cut mine with a band saw and have made sure it is griped securely. I most often jam it into a "V" cut in a thick board say 3/4" thick or more. It will cut like very dense hardwood.Yes you can and should use water once you start working it BUT not not to cool it when cleaning. If the bone is already cut into scales before cleaning adding cold water may cause it to badly crack. As soon as the cleaning is done you will see the color you will get. Usually the lower leg bone is whiter than the upper thigh bone and can finish out like an ivory without and dirt collecting pours as most bone has. I have found it is a great material to work with and can look super. Telling people it is moose bone can change their attitude.
So yes, you can work it right away. Just cut it as you would a wood branch the same size. The lower leg is very rectangle in shape and two scales can be cut from this.
I hope this helps. Sorry for missing so much.
Frank
 
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