- Joined
- Sep 22, 2003
- Messages
- 13,182
I got it today:thumbup:
I think they got it pretty close
Here's a side by side
I took it outside and chopped a nice dry oak log in half. To me, oak is easy to chop, but at the same time it has bent more edges than any other wood. The Bonecutter has great tempering. No rolls bends or dings.
Next I thought I would try some hard to chop wood. I find elm with it's tight interlocking grain to be some of the hardest to chop. It cut the elm fine and I didn't get any hot spots. Also true to the Bonecutter balance I found myself using the tip to chop a lot. And chop it did.
The Sargent got the bevel right on these. Thin edge high penetration.
There is a bit of Cho creep compared to the original but perfectly acceptable and not extreme:
I thought it was comfortable to chop with, but the handle on the original Bonecutter is more user friendly.
I could feel the bell back there. It never dug into my hand but it came close. Not so with the orignal bonecutter.
I think they got it pretty close
Here's a side by side

I took it outside and chopped a nice dry oak log in half. To me, oak is easy to chop, but at the same time it has bent more edges than any other wood. The Bonecutter has great tempering. No rolls bends or dings.

Next I thought I would try some hard to chop wood. I find elm with it's tight interlocking grain to be some of the hardest to chop. It cut the elm fine and I didn't get any hot spots. Also true to the Bonecutter balance I found myself using the tip to chop a lot. And chop it did.

The Sargent got the bevel right on these. Thin edge high penetration.
There is a bit of Cho creep compared to the original but perfectly acceptable and not extreme:

I thought it was comfortable to chop with, but the handle on the original Bonecutter is more user friendly.
I could feel the bell back there. It never dug into my hand but it came close. Not so with the orignal bonecutter.