BOSS Jack - Removing tubes?

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May 30, 2009
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My brother and I have made my Orange/Black Boss Jack a project knife. I already stripped it as you may have seen in previous threads. He's been polishing it more so than it already was under the coating. Originally I was going to leave the slabs, but he's done such a good job on the mirror satin finish, that we're thinking we might try to tackle removing the slabs.

I've seen some info here regarding this. I know the knife has to be braced well, and then the tubes get drilled out. I guess I'm looking for some info, tips and tricks from people who have done it. What size bit? Is a drill press absolutely necessary?

Also, I don't think we're HOG enough to rig something to replace the tubes, so we're considering black torx to go along with the pumpkin slabs. I don't mind this, being a hard used/abused user knife. How though, do torx work? How do you get the correct length to match the width of the slabs+tang?

I guess I may as well ask - Is it at all possible to replace tube fasteners without the correct tool? I've seen the screw-heads-in-the-vice rig used to flare new tubes. Is there any other method?

Worse comes to worse I send it out to our buddy NorCal to retube it for me, so I'm not too worried about semi-FUBARing it.
 
Attempt this only if you have mechanical ability I am not resposible for the outcome, damages or injuries.

This is what I used and what worked for me.

1/4" drillbit.
1/4" punch.
drill press, or very very carefully use a hand drill.
tape.
your whits.

tape the edge with a few layers of blue painters tape.
I just hold the knife with my fingers on the spine of the blade and the drill cutting in that direction, on a block of wood, if you have a really sharp drillbit it cuts the brass pin very easly and doesn't bind.

drill very very slow, until the flared part of the tube breaks loose then stop and move to the next tube.
if you go too deep you risk drilling into the handle G10.

once they are all de-flared, take the punch & push/hammer out the tube and the handles will fall off.
 
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Hi All... I, being the brother, also have one more question... Any suggestions on where to find "nicer type" torx screws?

Thanks!
 
Hi All... I, being the brother, also have one more question... Any suggestions on where to find "nicer type" torx screws?

Thanks!

I'm really not sure what you mean by "nicer", but pretty much any Knife Maker supply place on line sells flathead screws and the connectors required to re-assemble your handles on the knife. One site that I have used in the past is www.usaknifemaker.com. You can also visit a local hardware store, most of them typically have a pretty good selection of screws. But I'm really not sure if you will find the proper connectors at a hardware store or not. Try to stick with 8-32 or 4-40 screws, as that is the most prevelant size of connectors available online.

Good luck, Les.
 
I'm really not sure what you mean by "nicer", but pretty much any Knife Maker supply place on line sells flathead screws and the connectors required to re-assemble your handles on the knife. One site that I have used in the past is www.usaknifemaker.com. You can also visit a local hardware store, most of them typically have a pretty good selection of screws. But I'm really not sure if you will find the proper connectors at a hardware store or not. Try to stick with 8-32 or 4-40 screws, as that is the most prevelant size of connectors available online.

Good luck, Les.

Torx indicate the little star shape, right? So do they make anything other than black? 8-32 and 4-40 indicate a size? I don't really want to use those hidden screw fasteners you grind down. I want the simplicity of just screwing the two ends together.
 
Torx indicate the little star shape, right? So do they make anything other than black? 8-32 and 4-40 indicate a size? I don't really want to use those hidden screw fasteners you grind down. I want the simplicity of just screwing the two ends together.

Yeah, the site I mentioned has both black & stainless torx screws. Check it out here, http://www.usaknifemaker.com/handle-material-hardware-shields-corbys-other-fasteners-c-95_70.html (towards the bottom of the page)

Yes, the 8-32 & 4-40 indicate the size, as an example 8-32 indicates #8 screw and 32 turns per inch.

On a side note, I've found it is best to order the longest screws available (because of different thickness handles) and shorten the screws as needed with a dremel or belt sander.
 
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That sight has a lot of excellent fasteners. I like the handle material too. I might have to pick up some of their tiger micarta for a WWII machete I'm working on.
 
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