Bought A Case XX That Needed Some Restoring Have A Look Let Me Know If You Know More.

[Ogien]

The scales were gone so I bought this knife for just a few dollars. I've never done this kind of repair and I've never made wooden scales from scratch but for a first time I think I did alright. Not great but not terrible either. Also, does anyone have any clue which model Case knife this is? I really like it alot but aside from knowing it's a Case XX I know nothing more about it.

Also, how badly do you guys think I did on my first attempt and bringing a knife back to life?

EDIT: Based on a very similar knife being sold on this forum right now I have reason to believe that this is a considerably older version of the "Case XX Medium Congress Bur Grn 64052SS"

 

[nutellarain]

For a first attempt, it's pretty commendable.

I recommend that you repost this to the traditional subsection, there will be more members able to help there.

 

[Ogien]

For a first attempt, it's pretty commendable.

I recommend that you repost this to the traditional subsection, there will be more members able to help there.

Much appreciated, I'll see if I can get a mod to move it for me or I'll just repost like you said. Thanks.

 

[caseguy]

Very nice work on the scales. Are you using epoxy to attach them?

If you look in the Exchange at the Traditional knives forum I believe you'll see the current version of your knife... http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...se-knives-pearl-premier-mini-trapper-congress

 

[Ogien]

It was recomended to me that I pay you nice folks on this end of the boards a visit with this particular question.
I bought a Case XX and the scales were gone so I bought this knife for just a few dollars. I've never done this kind of repair and I've never made wooden scales from scratch but for a first time I think I did alright. Not great but not terrible either. Also, does anyone have any clue which model Case knife this is? I really like it alot but aside from knowing it's a Case XX I know nothing more about it.

Also, how badly do you guys think I did on my first attempt and bringing a knife back to life?

I'm very willing to redo the scales and pin them correctly but I'd need some guidance such as where to find the parts I need to do the job right as well as where to get any specialty tools I might need.

Most importantly, at the moment, does anyone have any idea which Case XX pocket knife this is? I literally got no information with it so it's a mystery. It's a 4 "blade" knife so I'm thinking that's a little unusual as the ones I see on eBay and other places are either 1 or 2 blade knives that sell for upwards of $100 so I'm really curious what it is I have here.

EDIT: Based on a very similar knife being sold on this forum right now I have reason to believe that this is a considerably older version of the "Case XX Medium Congress Bur Grn 64052SS" except that mine is obviously sporting wooden scales.

 

[Ogien]

Very nice work on the scales. Are you using epoxy to attach them?

If you look in the Exchange at the Traditional knives forum I believe you'll see the current version of your knife... http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...se-knives-pearl-premier-mini-trapper-congress

OMG, thank you so much. I finally have something to go on in regards to which Case this is. Thank you for the kind words too, I really didn't know what else to do so I did use epoxy but on the plus side I do know how to remove it if/when the need arises. I used several layers of veneer with a little sliver of veneer sandwhiched between the first 2 layers to give it that rounded shape. Each layer got an even spread of elmers wood glue and then some stain and laquer on the exposed veneer.

This was the easiest way I could think of to get the shape and size as accurate as possible. I'm sure there are better ways but I haven't learned them yet. Emphasis on yet.

 

[meako]

I think it looks great.Are the scales nice and tight? marvelous job.

 

[Ogien]

Oh yeah they are perfectly fitted to the knife. Layers of veneer were easy to cut to exact size with an exacto knife and once I had the first one it was easy to use it as a template for the rest of the layers. I put a sliver of veneer between 2 of the base layers in order to get that rounded shape. I wanted to pin it but I didn't know where to get supplies and I wasn't entirely feeling safe removing the existing pins that someone else cut down to size.

Thank you for your kind words, even though it was my first attempt I wanted to do as good of a job as I could and I think it looks decent. It certainly feels nice in the hand.

 

[Stich2442]

Looks great definitely a congress pattern '52 , but how the Case number system works is like this: the 1st # ( the 6) is handle material (which you don't know ) the 2nd is the # of blades (4) and the 52 is for the designated pattern, the SS would stand for Stainless Steel, from your picture the blades seem to have patina, which would indicate carbon steel or CV, but could just be shadow or lighting in the picture. So it's not really a 64052SS but it gives you a place to start. It probably was a "6" with some sort of bone that cracked and fell off = 64052. If you post a bigger clearer picture of the tang stamp with the Case markings it should be fairly easy to date or you could go here
http://www.wrcase.com/case_college/tang_stamps/
From the picture you posted it looks like a 1978? But it's hard to see the dots under the USA looks like 2?

Cool knife cool fix the other reason possibly '78 pinned shield would have held the original scales on better, '78 they started to glue shields.
Pete

 

[Jack Black]

Nice knife :thumbup:

 

[screened porch]

I have only once in my life peened on handles with pins, and that was when the whole knife was in pieces anyway. I've glued on a few, and none of them has failed. I think you've done an excellent job, and I like your built-up veneer technique.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

The pattern number should be on the tang of one of the blades. In your pic, almost looks like I can see some of it on the blade in the lowest portion of the picture. Vintage looks like 1978 (2 dots seen below the 'U.S.A.' stamp, if my eyes aren't lying to me).


David

 

[Modoc ED]

Looks that way to me too David. Enlarge the picture to 200% and the two dots jump out at you.

 

[Ogien]

Looks great definitely a congress pattern '52 , but how the Case number system works is like this: the 1st # ( the 6) is handle material (which you don't know ) the 2nd is the # of blades (4) and the 52 is for the designated pattern, the SS would stand for Stainless Steel, from your picture the blades seem to have patina, which would indicate carbon steel or CV, but could just be shadow or lighting in the picture. So it's not really a 64052SS but it gives you a place to start. It probably was a "6" with some sort of bone that cracked and fell off = 64052. If you post a bigger clearer picture of the tang stamp with the Case markings it should be fairly easy to date or you could go here
http://www.wrcase.com/case_college/tang_stamps/
From the picture you posted it looks like a 1978? But it's hard to see the dots under the USA looks like 2?

Cool knife cool fix the other reason possibly '78 pinned shield would have held the original scales on better, '78 they started to glue shields.
Pete

OK, you just taught me more about Case knives then I'd ever known and I GREATLY thank you for that. You're right, there are 2 dots (just checked) under the "USA" on the blade. No, without a doubt that is a patina, very even on all 4 blades (I'm calling everything in it a blade for simplicity sake) so I agree with you that I'ts likely a higher carbon steel. This obviously throws my copy and paste identification of the knife completely out the window. Now I'm wondering what year/time-frame this really nice knife is from. I really love the way it feels in my hand. Insanely comfortable to manipulate and use.

Also, thank you very kindly for the kind words on the scales. I'm glad I didn't screw up too badly by not pinning the scales but as it is they seem to be perfectly attached and are not noticeable in any negative way when held.

Nice knife :thumbup:

Thank you very much, I really like it alot.

I have only once in my life peened on handles with pins, and that was when the whole knife was in pieces anyway. I've glued on a few, and none of them has failed. I think you've done an excellent job, and I like your built-up veneer technique.

Yeah, I'm starting to get the picture that pinning is a good thing but certainly not the end all be all of attaching scales.

The pattern number should be on the tang of one of the blades. In your pic, almost looks like I can see some of it on the blade in the lowest portion of the picture. Vintage looks like 1978 (2 dots seen below the 'U.S.A.' stamp, if my eyes aren't lying to me).

David

No, you're right, it's definitely 2 dots on one of the knives but suprisingly there seem to be 3 dots on the second large knife blade. Either that or it's pitted from some long gone surface rust. OR, someone replaced one of the blades and broke the scales in the proccess but then the question arises why is the patina so level across all the blades.

Looks that way to me too David. Enlarge the picture to 200% and the two dots jump out at you.

Yup, in the picture it's definitely 2 dots but as I mentioned above it looks like a second blade may have 3 which I'm not sure what that means exactly.

 

[Ogien]

I'll try and get a better close up picture of the blades with the dots so that hopefully we can get to the bottom of things. I'll need to use an actual camera instead of my phone since I can do Macro then and get a very clear picture of what we're looking at.

I really appreciate all the kind words, it certainly encouraged me to not be afraid to perhaps bring other knives back from the "dead" (as it were).

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

(...)
No, you're right, it's definitely 2 dots on one of the knives but suprisingly there seem to be 3 dots on the second large knife blade. Either that or it's pitted from some long gone surface rust. OR, someone replaced one of the blades and broke the scales in the proccess but then the question arises why is the patina so level across all the blades.

(...)

If there are 2 blades with the 'CASE XX', 'U.S.A' and dots, then it looks like it's been re-bladed at some point. Ordinarily, on an original build, there should only be one blade marked with the name/vintage tang stamp; normally it's the 'main' blade on the front side. If the other blade with 3 dots is marked otherwise identically, it's likely a 1977 blade. I'd think the patina wouldn't necessarily vary much, especially if one blade was replaced fairly early on in the knife's life (maybe a blade was broken). Might've been done quite a long time ago, and the age/wear/patina might've happened concurrently, since then.


David

 

[Ogien]

If there are 2 blades with the 'CASE XX', 'U.S.A' and dots, then it looks like it's been re-bladed at some point. Ordinarily, on an original build, there should only be one blade marked with the name/vintage tang stamp; normally it's the 'main' blade on the front side. If the other blade with 3 dots is marked otherwise identically, it's likely a 1977 blade. I'd think the patina wouldn't necessarily vary much, especially if one blade was replaced fairly early on in the knife's life (maybe a blade was broken). Might've been done quite a long time ago, and the age/wear/patina might've happened concurrently, since then.


David

Thank you David and everyone else, I learned so much about Case knives in this thread and I'm thrilled about that as Case has always been a bit of a mystery to me. Going by what you said there is a second blade that has "USA" on it and what looks like 3 dots though it's hard to tell because of ware and what may or may not be pitting. I'll take pictures later on but either way, I absolutely love this knife. It feels like quality, perfect weight, very strong springs that let you know that when it's open it's open though not hard to open.

Think I'm going to get lots of enjoyment out of this Case and what you said about patina makes sense. Now the question arises, which blade is the replacement blade, the one with 3 dots or the one with 2. Guess there isn't likely any way to be sure about that.


EDIT: On the back of the blade with the 3 dots is stamped the number 64052 if that means anything to anyone.

 

[Ogien]

OK, here is a picture of the other blade that has the 3 dots. After taking a close up picture it certainly does appear that there are 3 dots and that this Case is a reblade. Not that it changes how much I like this knife or anything but it's interesting to know as much as possible both for me and for the knowledgebase that this thread will serve.

EDIT: The blade pictured is also the one that fits "oddly" when all the other blades are closed. I figure since this is the one that "sticks out" just a little bit it would suggest that this is the replacement blade that someone installed into this knife.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

OK, here is a picture of the other blade that has the 3 dots. After taking a close up picture it certainly does appear that there are 3 dots and that this Case is a reblade. Not that it changes how much I like this knife or anything but it's interesting to know as much as possible both for me and for the knowledgebase that this thread will serve.

EDIT: The blade pictured is also the one that fits "oddly" when all the other blades are closed. I figure since this is the one that "sticks out" just a little bit it would suggest that this is the replacement blade that someone installed into this knife.

Yes, I think you're right. Based on the fit issues, that's likely the replacement. The tang stamp does indicate 1977 vintage.


David

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Thank you David and everyone else, I learned so much about Case knives in this thread and I'm thrilled about that as Case has always been a bit of a mystery to me. Going by what you said there is a second blade that has "USA" on it and what looks like 3 dots though it's hard to tell because of ware and what may or may not be pitting. I'll take pictures later on but either way, I absolutely love this knife. It feels like quality, perfect weight, very strong springs that let you know that when it's open it's open though not hard to open.

Think I'm going to get lots of enjoyment out of this Case and what you said about patina makes sense. Now the question arises, which blade is the replacement blade, the one with 3 dots or the one with 2. Guess there isn't likely any way to be sure about that.


EDIT: On the back of the blade with the 3 dots is stamped the number 64052 if that means anything to anyone.

That's the pattern number of the knife for which that blade was intended. In this case, it appears to be an exact duplicate of the main blade in your knife, also a 64052 pattern (likely, anyway). Looks like vintage is the only difference, separated by one year.

BTW, you've done a nice job in re-handling that one. Those scale covers look good. :thumbup:


David