i was in the woods and i decided to try my hand at the bow drill. burning the holes in the base went pretty smoothly, but when i cut the notch and tried getting a coal the stupid thing wouldnt even attemped to smoke. all i got was this unholy squeeking noise. is there somthing im not doing right? any suggestions would really be a big help, iv burned 8 holes through the base and went through 2 spindles with the same result.
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bow drill help
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- Joined
- Jun 8, 2005
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- 97
try puting a few sand grains into the bottom hole, this will create lots of friction and wood dust, which will ignite. As for the top hole, lube it with a piece of candle wax - you dont want friction up there.
hope this helps.
hope this helps.
What woods are you using for all the parts ?
If memory serves , screeching means either too much moisture , too much sap or the wood used for the different parts is incompatible.
I had good results with a western red cedar board and drill for the bow drill. A mullein hand drill and western red cedar board also worked for me but much more difficult.
Grain orientation plays a part and knowing that not every tree has the same wood as another tree of the same species , limb wood is different. The wood near the butt of the tree is different than the wood at the top of the tree - lots to absorb over time and head scratching , cursing under one's breath doesn't help... I've tried
If memory serves , screeching means either too much moisture , too much sap or the wood used for the different parts is incompatible.
I had good results with a western red cedar board and drill for the bow drill. A mullein hand drill and western red cedar board also worked for me but much more difficult.
Grain orientation plays a part and knowing that not every tree has the same wood as another tree of the same species , limb wood is different. The wood near the butt of the tree is different than the wood at the top of the tree - lots to absorb over time and head scratching , cursing under one's breath doesn't help... I've tried
i think im using poplar or somthing of similar hardness, it seems like its dry enough but maby im wrong. also, how long should it take to get a coal and how much strengh does it take because at the rate im going it seems like u have to be superman for this to work
A few tips that might help:
If you do it the right way, a few minutes should be enough.
You're not supposed to apply too much pressure on the top: quite anyone can do the job. It's a lot more about how you do the bow drill. If you need too much strength, it might mean you're not doing it the right way.
About lubrification of the top of spindle. Smashed green leaves, or any green plant, or green moss in the top hole work just fine.
Question is a lot about speed. You should start not too fast, and end with sustained quick long strokes. Don't forget to keep a regular breath.
The notch should be large enough, but not too large.
If you're spindle and you're hole have turned burned-black, it may be useful to scrap that black cover from both hole and spindle, to have some clear wood appearing. This should incrase friction.
Wood should be dead and dry. Dead standing wood is better.
If you do it the right way, a few minutes should be enough.
You're not supposed to apply too much pressure on the top: quite anyone can do the job. It's a lot more about how you do the bow drill. If you need too much strength, it might mean you're not doing it the right way.
About lubrification of the top of spindle. Smashed green leaves, or any green plant, or green moss in the top hole work just fine.
Question is a lot about speed. You should start not too fast, and end with sustained quick long strokes. Don't forget to keep a regular breath.
The notch should be large enough, but not too large.
If you're spindle and you're hole have turned burned-black, it may be useful to scrap that black cover from both hole and spindle, to have some clear wood appearing. This should incrase friction.
Wood should be dead and dry. Dead standing wood is better.
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2003
- Messages
- 494
Hi,
I get a lot of noise with resinous woods (which are far from optimal). Basically the resin/pitch melts, and then hardens at the tip of the spindle. This creates a glass hard surface that squeeks like hell. Burnt wood is also sometimes hard, and squeeks like hell just the same.
The most important part probably is spindle stability. It should not move at all and stay perfectly straight when you drill. With a good form, I get an ember well under 30 secs of drilling... It actually is a lot faster than most people think. The longest part is to find and prepare the materials.
One of the best wood combos is a hazel spindle and a poplar or lime board. The wood must be DRY. Cut a chip off the wood and put your wrist on it. If it feels warm, it's dry enough. If it feels cold at all, it's too wet.
Hope this helps !
Cheers,
David
I get a lot of noise with resinous woods (which are far from optimal). Basically the resin/pitch melts, and then hardens at the tip of the spindle. This creates a glass hard surface that squeeks like hell. Burnt wood is also sometimes hard, and squeeks like hell just the same.
The most important part probably is spindle stability. It should not move at all and stay perfectly straight when you drill. With a good form, I get an ember well under 30 secs of drilling... It actually is a lot faster than most people think. The longest part is to find and prepare the materials.
One of the best wood combos is a hazel spindle and a poplar or lime board. The wood must be DRY. Cut a chip off the wood and put your wrist on it. If it feels warm, it's dry enough. If it feels cold at all, it's too wet.
Hope this helps !
Cheers,
David
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2005
- Messages
- 97
^ dont give up... i spent a week machining a fire piston out of a printing press axle, only to find i messed up and need to go back and refine it....LOL!
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2003
- Messages
- 1,461
I agree with Moine (good post). A little trick with the stability, assuming you are right handed, is lock your left wrist to your left shin. This should help minimize the spindle wobble.
Also, you may want to try the Egyptian bow drill method to start. Instead of putting the spindle under tension and twisting it into the bow string, wrap it 5 or 6 times. It doesn't have to be taught them and you don't get the tension you would otherwise which agains monkeys with the stability.
Found this link searching Dogpile...
http://www.trackertrail.com/survival/fire/bowdrill/egyptian/
Also, you may want to try the Egyptian bow drill method to start. Instead of putting the spindle under tension and twisting it into the bow string, wrap it 5 or 6 times. It doesn't have to be taught them and you don't get the tension you would otherwise which agains monkeys with the stability.
Found this link searching Dogpile...
http://www.trackertrail.com/survival/fire/bowdrill/egyptian/