Bow-Drill w/ RC-6

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Jan 6, 2009
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Went out for a ride a couple days ago on one of the many mountain roads in Brinnon, WA. It's about an hour long ride from my home in Bremerton which is just West over the water from Seattle. Passed a nice looking rock face (you can see it to the left) and as many of you journeymen at heart can relate to, I was blessed with the thumping desire to get myself to the top of it. I traversed myself along side quietly through the trees and up the steep grade as to try and not disturb the perfect pattern of the forest. Unfortunately, the pines ran out and the rock towards the top was just too wet and steep to try and climb, so I decided to explore my surroundings. In my wanderings, I happened upon a beautiful downed Red Cedar. This was an excellent opportunity to practice some primitive fire-craft. Cedar happens to be one of the prime selections for the bow-drill. Second only to Willow to my knowledge.


First step I took was to strip some of the loose bark at the bottom of the trunk. This will be used for making my tinder bundle. The fact that it is out of reach for the most part from precipitation will make it ideal.

In order to make this material fluffy enough to accept a coal it needs to be teased. The easiest way I found to do this was to roll it vigorously between my palms. This loosened up the fibers quite well. I then used just my thumb and index fingers to break it down in even more detail. The more the better.

Here you see my bundle. I made it about the size of a baseball. If my need for fire were imminent, I would have probably quadrupled that in case I needed it.

I then started on my board. I was able to gather all components from a single cracked section of the tree. I like to make my boards about 8-12" The longer your board the more fires you can make from it.



I find 3/4" to be a good depth for cedar. If it's very dry, it will burn through fairly quickly so a thin board will do you no good. Especially if it ends up taking you multiple tries. Cedar is very straight grained so batoning your wood into shape is a breeze. NOTE: Whenever possible, it seems best to make your board flat on both top and bottom. It will be more stable and you will have less wobble when in use.

I generally like my board to be a bit wider than this. It's about 1.5" but 2"- 3" is usually what I like.



The spindle was next. I make them about the same length as the fire-board. I baton them squared and about the width of my thumb.



CONTINUED IN PART II
 
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Washington is blessed with an abundance of cedar, which is truly an amazing wood for bushcrafting use. I'd kill for wood like that around here... maybe I'll just have to move farther northwest :D
 
As I was saying, I like my spindle about thumb width and square to start.



Now you want to start rounding down your spindle. It doesn't take long to widdle down those corners. Just keep it straight and symmetrical, as I have found it is easy to get sucked into this step and gouge one side a bit too much. To achieve a good cylinder shape is comforting, though as you can see I didn't make mine even NEAR perfect and it should still work wonderfully.





To create your friction or business end of the spindle, a not so pointy tip is what you want. To MAXIMIZE contact is the goal. (this side goes to the fire-board)



The opposite end should be nice and pointed. Our goal is to MINIMIZE contact on this end. (this side goes to your hand piece)



Next I made my hand piece. This component is heavily influenced by personal preference. There are endless options and using the same wood (if using wood at all) is not necessary. If you choose a different species of wood, be sure this one is harder than the spindle. As I said earlier, I made all three of my components from the same break of Cedar. When choosing a hand piece, I like to find a section that has a natural curvature to it. This will make for a much more comfortable block to hold on to.



I make mine a bit wider than the width of my palm. That's roughly 4.5" for me. I then drilled with the tip of my knife a small indent in the center of the block for the spindle to rest in. It doesn't need much. Just punch and rotate a few times around. Just enough to hold the pointy tip of your spindle steady as it burns itself into shape.



There are infinite ways to achieve the next task as well. Sufficient lubrication is a major key to running your machine efficiently. Without it you will burn the end not intended to be burned. I used green leaves and oil from my forehead for mine. I crushed the leaves into place and worked them in by hand with the pointy end of the spindle.




I then drilled my fire-board to accept the less pointy side of the spindle. A foolproof way to find your landmark is to place your spindle on the edge of the board and mark the center with the blade of your knife. Then drill as you did on the hand piece.



CONTINUED IN PART III
 
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Sorry but I neglected to take enough pictures of the bow, but i generally make them about 2' in length and about 1" wide with a moderate curve. You can use green wood but there's no reason you shouldn't be able to find something dead. I use my saw and cut slits on both ends to attach my cordage. There are other ways to do this obviously but I like this method. On most occasions I use simple para-cord for my bow, but I wanted to twist it up a little so I used the lace from my boot to see if it would suffice. Had I not had my pack it is all I would have had. (I am still working on the art of making my own cordage, but I'm not to the level in skill where I could use it for this. Bow drill is very abrasive on the cordage and mine has always broken in the act)



After you attach whichever cordage you have chosen, you now need to attach your spindle. Thread the spindle with the looped side facing outward from the bow. You want pretty strong tension on your spindle. Otherwise it will slip under pressure. Too much, and it tends to ride up and pop off. This can frustrate you to the point of wanting to quit. DON'T. This is normal. Just keep adjusting your knots until you have it right. (NOTE: It shouldn't take all your strength to set the spindle, but it shouldn't be easy either. Once you get the right tension, you wont forget)
Getting into position: I prefer to be barefoot for this part. It will improve contact with your board and provide you with more stability. For me it makes me feel a little closer with the earth, and it leaves a cool brown stain of resin on the side of your foot. Make sure you prepare the ground beneath you AHEAD of time. Clear the areas your body parts will make contact with of rocks and such. Your workspace where you will be drilling should be nice and flat if possible. I used some thin blocks of the cedar I had leftover from batoning as a base directly below my board.



About time to start burning. I start out very slow, using only a small section of the bow and apply only light pressure . This gets the contact points to start mending with each other minimizes risk of the spindle popping out. Once it feels good and smooth, start using more and more of the length of your bow until you are using the entire length. Taper into using a moderate amount of pressure. Once you start to see smoke, increase to a heavier pressure. As the smoke becomes thick, continue for another 10 seconds or so. Should end up looking something like this.



Now cut your notch. I like to take about an 1/8" bite out of the burned surface. Take your time on this part. Get it right. This usually takes longer than you would think depending on the species of wood, so it can be easy to lose yourself on this step and give yourself a good slice.





Some folks like to have their tinder bundle directly under the board to catch the coal, but I think your tinder is best off remaining in its lofty state. I like to place a green leaf under my board and simply transfer the coal to the tinder once it's strong enough.

Get into position and prepare to bust a coal!

Start off using moderate pressure. Once you achieve steady smoke, apply heavy pressure and give it everything you got. This in my experience doesn't mean speed. High speeds lead to bad form, a wobbling spindle, and a scattered state of mind. I find consistent pressure and full strokes of the bow to yield the best results at a MODERATE speed. It's all about perfecting your form and remaining calm. Be sure to control your breathing. Keep it steady. Don't hold your breath. This deprives your muscles of essential oxygen required to allow them to perform at their peak. Maintain the heavy smoke for a good 20-30 seconds if your stamina permits.



When it comes time to stop, maintain your calm state of mind. Carefully remove the spindle and bow from your workspace. Don't move your foot or board. If the dust pile continues to smoke for more than 10 seconds, you probably got yourself a coal. CAREFULLY remove your board. Many of the instructional videos, and readings I have come across told me to get down and blow on the coal. My experience has taught me to leave it alone. Shelter it from wind with your LIFE. Let it build its strength. You can gently sprinkle remaining dust onto it. I let it sit up to a full minute or more.



Once you are confident your coal is strong, transfer it into your bundle. Gently fold it into the center. Doing this right takes a little practice. It requires a certain amount of pressure and contact with the tinder. Too much and your coal dies, too little and the coal has nothing to mate with and expand beyond itself.

Blow lightly and directly. That's the most accurate description I can muster up. It has worked for me many times. As the smoke gets thicker increase. Sorry I didn't have many pictures through this process, but It was just me. No third hand.



I would say about 1 out of every 2 executions of this have resulted in a flare up in my face, but it's the most rewarding of all burns I have experienced.





What I learned from this outing:

-If using a bootlace for your bow, be sure to fashion a slip knot or something of the sort. Permanent knots cinch up tight and are difficult to remove.

-I can't stress enough the importance of thanking nature whenever you utilize one of her resources. Not necessarly aloud, but to yourself. Take care of her and she will take care of you. Remember it's not survival. It's LIVING. And not living in the woods, but WITH the woods. Don't resist what is dealt to you out there, embrace it. Try and be still sometimes. Be quiet. Walk softly. Learn learn learn

Thanks for checking out my ramblings.
 
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-RC-6/ESEE-6 (I put the handle from an RC-5/ESEE-5 on it)

The knife performed very well for its size as there was a considerable amount of cutting variation in this particular project. A few hot spots developed when carving out the notch. It's difficult to get the leverage needed with the choil making the blade so distant from the handle. I know you can choke up but I find it to be uncomfortable and it gives me an uneasy feeling. That is the only modification I would want on the 6. Otherwise it is a fantastic knife. It can be pressed into service for many different uses. Not so large that it overwelms us, not so small that it cannot split our larger firewood. Not so thick that it can't slice or be sharpened with ease, not so thin that we worry ourselves to death about breakage. Not so heavy that it can't be carried on our belts, not so light that it cannot do light chopping if need be. I could go on but you get the picture. It is an all around well thought out blade that does everything well, but nothing great. If I were to only carry one knife, this would be a strong canidate as to my # 1 choice.

-Bacho Laplander folding saw. (discontinued to the best of my knowledge. By far the best folding saw I have found)
 
Great thread!!

Not much Cedar on this side of the mountains, but there's lots of cottonwood and willow. Both of which work excellent as well.
 
I appreciate the positive feedback. I want to start doing these postings more often. The ESEE crew are a good bunch. I knew you folks would like this stuff. :thumbup:
 
Great post! I've made a few bow sets with my RC4, I bet the 6 works really well for it...I hope to find out some day :)
 
Very informative without being too wordy.....a great read over my morning coffee! Thanks.
 
Nice post. Very interesting and good pics.
Is that an XR650?
I know it's a Honda but not sure what size. My Dad used a Big Red Pig on the Great Divide Ride. Outta my DRZ400S and a friend's KLR650, the Honda was the only one that made it through the trip without any technical difficulties.
Didn't mean to hijack the thread.
Thanks for the post :thumbup:
 
Excellent! I didn't know you could use cedar, there is a lot of it in my area.
 
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