Bow making step 1 - select the right tree for a stave

iahunter3

iahunter3

Joined
Mar 2, 2011
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515
I've been reading the Traditional Bowyers Bible over the last few weeks.
I have access to some property that has hundreds of 6-10 inch walnut trees that are growing way too close together, so I thought I would try to find one "straight enough". I happened to be on the property last weekend and picked the straightest one I could, but it wasn't straight enough. This is my very first attempt at producing an actual traditional bow:
How does this fit in Beckerdom? Well the BK-2 was the tool for the splitting. it worked great.
First the stave and tool:
2012-11-07_16-34-51_863.jpg


The first split, I started at the narrow end dead square in the middle and ended with this:
2012-11-07_16-39-44_652.jpg


The split was happening well before the edge contacted the wood, which is what I thought I wanted. At this point I figured I might as well try to split it again, if nothing else to gain experience:
2012-11-07_16-42-50_82.jpg


It was going well, but I could tell that this tree was not going to be bow making material:
2012-11-07_16-43-09_55.jpg


The end result wasn't good, but not as bad as I though it would be, I will cut the worst twist off and once it is dry make a couple of small (32 inch) bows, just for the experience. I'm almost certain the tree choice is at fault here, not the tool. I haven't decided whether to continue to look for the right tree or just buy one for my first...
2012-11-07_16-45-37_189.jpg


And a glamor shot, a great tool for splitting and so much more:
2012-11-07_16-46-08_748.jpg


If anyone has experience with this, please chime in!
 
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You might try taking the straightest peice and clamping it down (with a little induced reflex) to take the twist out of it. Keep it tied down as it dries, then when its done drying take it out and see what you have. Maybe try steaming the wood to remove twist. Good luck!!
 
I have always wanted to make a bow, a real, well functioning bow. Something I could count on.

Right now, though, I am eyeing that Bowtech Assassin......

:D

Moose
 
looks like an interesting project...look forward to seeing the end results
 
how long do I have to wait to see the conclusion of this thread??
I mean...
how long will it take to dry?

Daizee would love to make a bow...
 
Walnut has to really dry or it takes a set easily. Fun stuff can't wait to see the finished one. I'll take a stick bow over any compound.
 
From what I understand, Black Walnut is not one of the easier bow woods to start with. Eastern Hophornbeam (Ostrya virginiana) or Shagbark Hickory (Carya ovata) might be a better choice if it grows in your area. I don't have a lot of experience with bow making - 1-3/4 bows, so far. (the 3/4 bow just needs some finish tillering and has for the last couple of years :rolleyes: )

Doc
 
Try this...www.tradgang.com

That site had 10K plus people on it back when I was play'n that game. If you can make a bow out of it they'll tell you how. That's were I learned to knap arrowheads, knives and such. Just be warned, it is habit forming. I hunted with a longbow for about 5 years making almost all of my stuff thoe old way.

To answer your question though, you heat it up and then twist it back. You can go the modern way and use a heat gun or the old school way and do it over a fire.
 
Hedge apple (osage orange) is a much better wood to use for bow and falls right behind yew as best choice. Walnut is going to be a bit slow, but you can use it.
 
Also, if you back your bow you can get by with a lot. Making a 32" bow from walnut without backing it and making it very low draw weight will result in a broken bow, most likely.
 
You may want to look this guy up, and ask him some questions. He seems to be pretty cool; I talked to him about a Mora knife before


[video=youtube;21ia7KsdHwE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21ia7KsdHwE&list=PLF686BCCE868F282B&index=2&feature=plpp_video[/video]

Then some arrow ideas :thumbup:

[video=youtube;KPXoGXo-hE8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPXoGXo-hE8&feature=autoplay&list=PLF686BCCE868F282B&playnext=1[/video]
 
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Wow.. thanks for all the comments. I'll try to comment on a few.
I only used walnut because it is readily available... the osage around my woods is really, really crooked.
The short bows would be for playing with width, thickness and tiller experiments, I won't expect them to shoot at full draw or anywhere close.
The two longer pieces are going to sit in my basement through December and then I will try to start working them if they aren't dry enough then Jan or Feb. The book says 9% (if I remember correctly) moisture is best.
I may try to straighten the best one, however I still might buy something a little more suitable for a first build :)

Oh yeah Moose... been eying the new helium all summer, but would like to take a whitetail with one of my own, someday.
 
Cool thread! I used to shoot recurve bows as a kid. we used to buy our arrows for bows that were around 45lb, but the bows that we made growing up along the river only got the arrow rest cut into them, then the arrows were from a strange plant that we only found in a couple areas (Kids at around 12-13yrs).

In other views: Those PSE "King Fishers" are a take-down bow that are in the recurve shootable range (ya' know around 45lbs is perfect) and they seem to be marketed to the waterproof arena. Recurves are a lot less poundage than compounds, but; man, do they work well!

Good luck brother
 
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Check out that site. There are a couple guys that like snakey bows and would show you how to make one with teh curves left in the wood. They even back them with rattle snake skins and they look wicked for sure.
 
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