Bowie Experiment

Joined
Nov 4, 2007
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The brainstorming continues. This is my first attempt at sketching a full size bowie blade. 12" long, 2" width. Based on a 12" Plain Jane build posted on Instagram around April- May 2020. The 2" width is a guess, since the reference pictures I've saved are mostly at an angle. I may have overestimated the width; needs refinement. I also want to experiment with some of the other bowies you've made in the past. The bone handle C- guard you posted 3 days ago is very interesting.
 
This is intended to be a martial blade. I used to practice FMA, but have found myself increasingly drawn towards the bowie. I already have a "utilitarian bowie." It took my a while to understand that the shape of the handle makes it difficult to perform a backcut; the unsharpened clip point nullifies any attempt with the technique.

I could, of course, polish this turd by sharpening the clip. However, I'd still be left with a handle heavy bowie that didn't move well. I'm leaving the manufacturer's name out of this because I don't want a product improved version of their knife. Instead, I want to use your design language to craft a new blade.

The reason I'd asked about a more oval (or flatter) handle profile is that when practicing the backcut or reverso, you need to be able to feel the orientation of the blade as it traverses the angle of attack. Some of these techniques involve a rapid change of direction using a snap of the wrist or a rolling motion. Thus, the desire to keep weight low relative to other knives of similar size. For example, Mutiny khukri vs those with a spine 3/8" thick. (I have one and it never gets used).

Back to edge and blade orientation. Some bowie techniques are based on holding the knife with the primary edge up and the sharpened clip facing down. It's important to have a handle that can not only be comfortable in both positions, but also allows you to thrust accurately both edge up or down. This gives context to both the coffin and dog bone handle bowies of the 1800's. BTW, it occurred to me that the Baak handle might be a good basis for a Nepalese version of the coffin handle. It seems to be more oval and might lend itself well to both vertical orientation of the blade's edges, and a little bit of taper to assist with grip transition.

On the other hand, a khukri handle would potentially give a more secure grip for rapid reversal in direction. I'm going to work on sketching a little more. I think I'm on the right track.
 
I'm thinking of this as the Elemental Bowie. Every detail is based on design elements from the work you've posted. I once replied that you should name a specific 12" Plain Jane "Calamity Jane." Haven't stopped thinking about his I'd make it mine. 5mm spine (M43). Thumb ramp from your Apr 2018 & Oct 2023 spearpoint camp knife. Longer clip point (Scourge). Full height grind, distal taper towards the point. Very slight curvature on a 7" long sharpened clip (like an inverted ginunting). Fully hardened edges. I hope this will lighten the blade quite a bit over a normal 12" Jane.

Haven't figured out how to draw handles correctly.

I kinda like where this blade is at for now, but I also want to repeat the drawing exercise as a 1.5" wide blade.

 
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We're missing some people at work and it's been really busy. Further refinement has left to these sketches.

The point has been moved to 1/4" above the centerline of the blade. The thumb ramp has been modified into a more of a mini-guard. I drew the temperature line as a wavy hamon simply to illustrate fully hardened top and bottom edges. The second sketch shows 3 possible blade widths: 2", 1.75", and 1.5". I added curvature to the main edge to slightly reduce weight and aid in draw cuts. My placement of the stick tang isn't meant to be absolute; it's just a representation of where it might go. Just trying to get sn idea of what it might look like. I'm guessing that the tang drawn on the 1.5" blade may be too wide. Now on to some questions.

The M43 Martial is made with a 5mm spine thickness. Based on your experience, what weight range do you think would result from a bowie of these proportions? 12" blade; 2", 1.75", and 1.5" width. This also assumes a wood or leather handle, some degree of distal taper, and a sharpened swedge. How about for a smaller 9.5" - 10" blade?

I understand these may be unfair questions as the blade is still hypothetical. At this point I believe that both the 1.75" and 1.5" would have to be lighter than the 2". The full width makes for some interesting lines with visual presence, but I have to wonder how much it'll weigh on a full length bowie. Thank you for any insight you can share.

Respectfully,
E.
 
Unfortunately at this point it's too difficult to say regarding final weight.
We don't have a handle design (particularly bolsters and bolster materials) and the details of grind style and distal taper have a big impact here.

Even with our years of experience we tend to design these things iteratively.
We have a "hunch" for a general weight and a POB that will arise and then make it and see. We then add taper and hollow the grind to dial it in.
For this reason we generally spec our customs quite loosely (locked in pattern, locked in spine thickness at bolster, padded total weight) as this gives us room to fettle the knife into final form and land at a weight and POB that works cohesively. Think of it like an equation. We design with 3+4+~6=x so we don't end up stuck in a situation where the design constraints tell us that 3+4+6=11. We tend to find weight distribution (POB, rotational inertia) more important than being as far as 20% off from goal weight. as a result we go looser on weight specs and will knock back a pattern or spine thickness if it doesn't make sense for the general weight distribution we're after.
This results in a great blade for the customer, but we note how far off we were with our hunch and how much we had to compromise or shift the starting design and then take this into account for future iterations. For example historically we've gone a bit too broad for longer blade patterns (over 14") and have ended up quite constrained for taper, grind etc but have since corrected course. An example would be our bush cutlass designs. These started broad with longer heavier pommels and had to go lean to compensate. Newer bush cutlass designs are more moderate blade width with a focus on less tip weight and rear bolster weight. The end result is lighter, feels faster in hand and keeps a sturdier spine. Similarly we've historically gone a bit narrow and thinly spined/ overly tapered for shorter khukuris (11" and under) and are improving in this space currently.
 
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