Bowie mods, help guys.

Zombie Zeke

Zombie Zeke

Joined
Nov 26, 2006
Messages
2,642
Alright guys I just got a Western w49 D from 1980 in on a trade, its before they sold out to Camillus and is made from 10xx Series Steel. So I am trying to decide whether or not to mod it up (finger groove, exposed tang with lanyard hole, etc...) any thoughts?


I am putting this here because this is where I post most.
 
Unless you're a greedy collector who thinks it will be worth $$$ one day, I say mod it. If you don't want to do it yourself, Mr Gossman's work ( the link in Blue Sky's post) is highly respected around here. I'm sure you can find other makers here who would do it for you as well.

If you do want to do it yourself, let me know and I'll send you a copy of a Bagwell article from the 80's where he explains exactly how and why.

I recently modded a UC large bowie (low-end stainless, not near as a good a steel as that Western, but almost the same design) and it was worth every bit of effort. Turned a clunky, awkward, ugly knife into an actually pretty decent one.
 
GibsonFan said:
Unless you're a greedy collector who thinks it will be worth $$$ one day, I say mod it. If you don't want to do it yourself, Mr Gossman's work ( the link in Blue Sky's post) is highly respected around here. I'm sure you can find other makers here who would do it for you as well.

If you do want to do it yourself, let me know and I'll send you a copy of a Bagwell article from the 80's where he explains exactly how and why.

I recently modded a UC large bowie (low-end stainless, not near as a good a steel as that Western, but almost the same design) and it was worth every bit of effort. Turned a clunky, awkward, ugly knife into an actually pretty decent one.
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Thanks GibsonFan,
Can you send me a pic of the knife you tricked out? hezikiah_m@yahoo.com

Also what kind of tools do you need for the job?
 
There are still enough of these out there(a pristine one would be around $150), that if you want to modify it, it's not a big deal,

The guard is the biggest problem with them, it's far too big to be useful, I would definatly nix the top one and shorten the bottom. I'd also "melt" the handles a bit, they're a bit squarish for my liking.

The Scott Grossman mods are the best, I've seen.
 
Chef, I emailed you a pic. Here is the mod I did on mine. Sometimes I take older pics off my webhosting. You can do these mods with hand tools but to get the handle reshaped, a belt grinder does a better job.
Scott
 
Yep, that's it. Looks like a whole different knife and a whole lot better too. Thanks Scott.
 
Thanks Scott, I am really thinking of trying it myself right now, will see when I get some more cash in hand.
 
The Chef said:
Thanks Scott, I am really thinking of trying it myself right now, will see when I get some more cash in hand.
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No problem. it's very satisfying to do something like this yourself. More time consuming with hand tools but still can be done. Let me know if you need any help. Got questions, gimme a call.
Scott
 
w49_tactical.jpg


Here's mine...

I have another one that's stock waiting to be modded when I get the time.
 
Gossman Knives said:
No problem. it's very satisfying to do something like this yourself. More time consuming with hand tools but still can be done. Let me know if you need any help. Got questions, gimme a call.
Scott
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Thanks Scott will do!

and Gibsonfan you have great ideas for mods...

Loki I like the way you slabbed the handles thats looking good.

This is stage 1 for mine...cleaned up the brass and the wood.

picture354fx4.jpg
 
I'm interested in trying this, too--but have been wondering where you guys who remove some of that extra wood from the handle slabs find it best to remove from. I think I'd be inclined to start by rounding off the corners everywhere, to give it less of a square cross-section. But it strikes me that there may be places that it is really helpful to reduce more than this. Any suggestions on more-detailed contouring than just "round off the edges"?

For example, Scott and Loki67 look like they've both hollowed out a bit of a space for the index finger on the bottom, just behind the guard. Loki67's seems to leave a bit of vertical swelling toward the middle of the handle, while Scott's seems not to have so much vertical swelling, but it looks like he's left the handle fatter (side to side) in the middle. Anyone have any suggestions about how they've made this work best?
 
JD, I reprofiled the handle on the 2X72 belt grinder. I used a 2" contact wheel for the handle and a 1 1/2" contact wheel for the guard. I contoured the handle flats on my 2X48 belt grinder with a 3" contact wheel giving it a palm swell.
Scott
 
Thanks--that vertical view is really great; I can tell much better what you did, and I can see right now that it'll handle much better. Good work.
 
Incidentally, what do y'all do with the false edge? Loki67's looks like he's dropped the point a bit, maybe a la Bagwell's article. Do you leave them dull, or sharpen them?
 
On my w49 I used .250 G10 on the handles and rounded all the edges on it.
That makes the handle about 3/4" inch thick. It's pretty flat and carries very well iwb.
I kinda want a Sastre Southern Comfort for it but I'm still using a modded leather sheath to carry it.

The point is dropped a bit to create a stronger point and it is fully sharpened. On the next one I will probably leave the point alone and just sharpen it.

BTW the blade has been fully convexed and cuts like a beaver on crack.:D
 
Return of the J.D. said:
I'm interested in trying this, too--but have been wondering where you guys who remove some of that extra wood from the handle slabs find it best to remove from.
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You're definitely on the right track. As to further shaping, do it till it fits and balances nicely. Do this after you have the blade the way you want it. Refer to other knives that feel natural in your hand. Don't be shy, just like the blade and guard, there's plenty of material to do pretty much whatever you want.

I don't know how big the tang is on those Westerns; I like lanyard holes.

On my UC, the clip is sharpened about ike my tomahawk; convex and not to tall of a grind. It chops very well but doesn't slice as well as the main edge. It's a work in progress. :) I did drop the point some, and as you say, I got the whole idea from the Bagwell article.

Fun, innit? :D
 
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