Bowie-Sized blocks of Micarta?

Erin Burke

Erin Burke

KnifeMaker...ish
Joined
May 19, 2003
Messages
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Where do y'all go when you're looking for a Bowie-sized block of micarta?. It seems like USA Knifemaker has quite the selection of scales, but no blocks. Alpha has G10 but no micarta... and frankly, I'm scared of trying to drill and broach a hidden tang out of G10. ;)
I'm mainly interested in black, but wouldn't mind seeing other colors as well. Who are your go-to suppliers?
Erin
 
Erin Burke said:
Alpha has G10 but no micarta... and frankly, I'm scared of trying to drill and broach a hidden tang out of G10.
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Relax, it's not that bad.

If you insist on micarta and can't find thick enough pieces, you might consider laminating it up or just doing a "mortised tang" construction.
 
Erin- I've done many hidden tang, solid block handles with both Micarta and G10... and it's really 6 of one/half dozen of the other when it comes to getting the tang hole done. Either way... it's a royal beeyotch. :foot:

Just to throw it out as an option, a mortised handle is a lot easier to fit up and can be done with thick scales. Or you can do a frame and get even more thickness from your scales. :)
 
NickWheeler said:
Just to throw it out as an option, a mortised handle is a lot easier to fit up and can be done with thick scales. Or you can do a frame and get even more thickness from your scales. :)
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Nick, I've seen a couple of your knives with micarta/G10 frames. How are you attaching the scales to the frame? Do you pin them like you would with a steel frame, or does adhesive alone give you a sufficient bond between composites?

Thanks.
 
It seems to me,Sheffield Knife Makers Supply used to carry a lot of the big stuff You do have to phone though. Frank
 
Erin, I've got some very thick natural (older than dirt) linen Micarta if you choose to try something other than black.
 
Erin, What are yo looking for?? I have both black and natural in canvas micarta. If you are going to the Eugene show next week there is a guy who brings a big box full of block sized material.
 
You guys want wide and thick Micarta?
The brother of the gentleman who owns Wood Lab has black canvas Micarta in about any size you may desire.
He will also be at Wood Lab's table in Atlanta.
Call and ask for Dan. 616-795-8433.
 
Erin- I think the top brands of epoxies would hold on their own... but I have always used mechanical fasteners when I do mortised or simple framed handles.

On a small knife with a simple frame like this, I feel domed pins are enough added security (and bling ;)).

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For a bigger knife, I go with Corby bolts/rivets-

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I know you're talking about synthetics here, but just to cover the bases... If it's a naturally oily wood, I will use Corby bolts even on a smaller knife for a mortised or framed handle.

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Thanks Nick,
I always use a mechanical fastener like a domed pin or corby to attach the handle to the tang... but what I was wondering about was using small pins (or adhesive alone) between the scales and the frame.
Erin
 
Okay, I guess I don't exactly understand what you're asking then... :o

Do you mean something like hidden indexing pins going from the scale to frame?

The mechanical fasteners are sandwiching the scales to the frame, and both to the tang.
 
Sorry to be confusing... but what do you use to bond the handle scales to the frame? The domed pins mechanically connect the scales to the tang... but is there any mechanical connection between the frame and the scales, or between the frame and the tang? Or is that only an adhesive bond?
 
I will let Nick answer for his own work, but I have seen it done one specific way... The frame is fit to the tang with notches in both that align. A piece of steel or of the frame material is dropped into those notches interlocking the two. The handles are then attached to the whole shebang and mechanically fastened as well as glued. This makes it impossible for the frame to come out without the handles coming off first.

Frame handles are cool in my book and I have been meaning to make a foray into them...

Cheers.

-Eric
 
There are many ways to bond the scales to the frame. Hidden pins work great and if you want a little more grip use thread stock for the pins. It does not take much to provide a very secure hold. If you are making a take down frame then look at the post from John Doyle. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1168912-Mean-little-fighter-frame-handle-take-down He did a great job making his take down framed handle. If you are making a big chopper though I would go for a more rugged construction like Karl does. Forgo the frame and do a through tang construction with a counter bored retaining nut in the pommel. I have been using this construction for years and have never had a failure, though mine are not normally take downs. Karl has proven via testing his will stand up to more abuse than should be put on any knife handle.
 
Just a heads up. I wend ahead an decided to give Alpha's G10 a try. I bought some blocks for hidden tang, some thick sheets for frame construction, and some thin sheets for spacers. I drilled out a block last night and it went much easier than anticipated... almost as easy as wood.

Erin
 
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