Boxed Walnut Kitchen Set

P. McKinley

P. McKinley

Joined
Jan 27, 2008
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I've just completed an order for three walnut paring knives that will be winging their way out to California on Thursday. These are destined to be Christmas presents for the three sons of a gentleman I met at the Sydney gallery where I display some of my work.

We had initially discussed a single knife as a present to himself, but later canceled that order. Not three days later he emailed to inquire if I could make three!

"Well, yes. I can."

We had discussed a price for a single knife but I felt that an order of three should get a little extra-special treatment. So I made simple matching boxes for each of the knives as a bonus. This man is a Arts and Crafts Movement(Morris, Stickley, etc) collector, so I designed the boxes with that in mind. The stock for the boxes has been in my shop for years and just happened to be of the dimension needed. I had forgotten just how gorgeous this wood is...... crazy quilting and lots of chatoyance.

I can't maintain proper temp for the heat treat of this 52100 steel in my gas forge so I used the Coast Guard College's high-tech electric kiln. I did not do the Ed Fowler triple/triple method, I just wanted to get the basic process right. This is the hardest steel I've worked with so far. Hand sanding to 2500 is quite chore.

The handle slabs have AMAZING figuring. I have a few book-matched slabs of this incredible walnut crotch-wood and I wait with great anticipation to see what a buffed oil finish will reveal. This selection did not disappoint..... gold, crimson, black, brown and beautifully chatoyant.

Anyway, here's the specs:

Boxed Walnut Paring Knives
Blade: 4", Flat ground, 52100 steel w/ 2500 grit hand rubbed finish, 1000 grit finish on spine. The tangs were heavily drilled for weight reduction.
Handle: 4 1/4" highly figured American Walnut crotch-wood w/ O1 steel pins. 1000 grit finish and buffed Beeswax polish(food safe).
Boxes: Quilted American Walnut w/ floating bottom and slide top. The toggles come from the same wood slab as the knife handles. Buffed Beeswax finish outside, no finish on the inside.

Thanks for looking. Please leave your comments.

Here's a few photos:












 
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Wow, those are great (the knives and boxes). I'm making a cleaver/santoku hybrid, chef knife and paring knife set for friends of ours and for my Cousins family. I was thinking about making them knife blocks, but after seeing your boxes, I just may make them as a boxed set. A great idea and really good execution on both the boxes and knives. Thanks for sharing!
 
His three sons may never see those knives and the boxes they came in. They are all quite amazing.

- Paul Meske
 
Gorgeous, the boxes are a cool touch to. One question why O1 pins? Just what you had on hand for stock?
 
You did some nice work on that set, they are beautiful!

Obviously you are a real hand with wood, a question I have had for years is why are the inside of wooden boxes left bare wood and finished like the outside?

I applied a finish on the top and sides of my 3" X 32" X 60 foot laminated work benches, leaving the bottom bare wood and they warped, the center being almost 1 inch higher than the sides. Took a few years and they leveled out. I believed the warp was due to the lack of finish on all surfaces.
 
Ed - Thank you!

I'm not a woodworking expert, but I've done a bunch of small boxes like this over the years and done them both ways, finished and unfinished. I haven't had an issue so far. I know of what you speak though, and I would wonder if the one-sided finish only becomes a problem on larger surface areas.... such as your bench. This time, I wanted the visual contrast between the bare wood inside and the highly polished knife handles. I felt that if I finished the insides, the knives would get lost. As well, time was running bare and I wanted to get these in the mail and not risk late arrival in CA.

I'm sure some of the enlightened folks around here can help explain this.
 
Don't get me wrong, the contrast you developed is beautiful, and I agree with the way you worked it out.
I was just curious and looking for an answer.

Thank you for your response!
 
Would the unfinished interior absorb moisture better.... protecting the knives? Just a thought. I know they say it is more benificial to leave cedar storage chests untreated on the inside.

Beautiful knives, Peter.
 
Bringing this back to ask a question.

How did you shape your handles? Was that done with a router, and if so what type of bit?

Absolutely beautiful set btw!
 
Grizz - Thanks!

I do those by hand with a series of files. I just lay out the lines and file till they meet. The rounded outside edges of the butt are the toughest.
 
Man, I really like those. Especially the box idea. Very smart presentation. I like the knives a lot too. I like chamfered handles. I've never done any. That is puzzling now I look at these. Neato.
 
Thank you guys.

Andy - I'm well aware of the arguments for and against "square" handles..... mostly those against. But, I like them in some cases. I'm a retired chef and two of my favorite knives have/had this handle style. Its comfortable and the beveled edges give your fingers something to catch and hold, especially when holding the knife oddly for some weird chore. Thanks for the compliment.
 
If you do handles like this in the near future, I would love a write up with pictures on how you go about doing them with files. I really like that style for kitchen knives!
 
First-truly nice work on both knives and boxes. Second, I hate to be ignorant, but what is a 'floating bottom' and how is it constructed?
Are you at liberty to give a ballpark figure for the cost of such knives? Thanks for sharing those photos.
 
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