Boy's Axe/ Cruiser

S

slaroy

Joined
Jul 9, 2012
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I love all of the pictures of these great axes you guys have. I have recently started fixing up a few old axe heads I had collected, and now I am hooked.

On a recent trip to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, I was able to find a number of old axe heads at garage sales/ antique shops/ flea markets. Some of them are real dogs, some are real nice... I found a Kelly Flint Edge boy's axe, an R. King broadaxe just to name the highlights. More pics to come on those.

Here are a couple of finds that you might be able to help me identify. The first is the cruiser I picked up for $6. I wasn't too sure about it but for the money I was willing to take a chance. The stamps are light but I can at least say that it shows the weight "2 1/2" and below it a number 8 and some letters... I and pretty sure it starts with an "M" have you guys seen anything like this?

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The next is a boys axe that I picked up for some change, literally. It has these ridges in the eye of the axe and no markings that I can find, even after a vinegar bath. The ridges seem to have a sharp edge toward the poll, maybe to keep the eye from shifting forward on impact? I haven't seen anything like it, and was just wondering if any of you have any experience; is it worth fixing up? Also, it seems like I might have a heck of a time trying to hang a handle with those teeth... Thanks in advance for your help!

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A number of makers added ridges inside the eye. Without something more it would be difficult to identify.
 
Well, I got a little impatient, and since I need some practice hanging axes before I start working with some of my nicer heads, I thought I would put the boy's axe together today.

After a vinegar bath/ sanding, sharpening, and a new handle from the local hardware store, here is the finished product;

DSC_0240.jpg


What do you think? This is one of the first axes I have hung, and I have already learned a lot. Made a few mistakes with the wedges; I didn't thin the wood wedge before I started to drive it home, and when I put in the steel wedge the wood wedge sunk a little.

I am open to all suggestions.
 
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Thanks for looking Squarepeg. After my little miscue last night with the steel wedges, I did a lot more looking at some of the pictures posted here, and I did notice that very few of you are using steel wedges.

Are there any additional steps to take when hanging an axe without a steel wedge? I see that a lot of you soak the head in linseed oil, will that help ensure a tight fit without a steel wedge?
 
Part of the trick is removing enough but not too much material from the handle (part inserted in the eye) so the axe eye slips on fairly easily. A few knocks on the knob end of the handle should seat the axe before wedging.

You will know if more material needs to be removed, if the kerf closes up like this:



It should be open.





Remember the axe eye is larger at the top than the bottom so adjust accordingly. Also trimming the wooden wedge is a must. If there is a lot of handle sticking out of the top of the axe, I usually remove some before wedging.

 
Linseed oil soak is a nice last step but it will not fix a poorly fitted wedge. Make sure the wedge is driven really, really deep.
 
Thanks for the help guys. What is the best way to trim the wedge? It seems like it would be prone to breaking/ cracking if I tried to wittle on it too much.

I will be hanging the cruiser today or tomorrow and will post some pics when done.
 
Just curious, if you don't use a metal wedge, do you glue the wooden one? Or is the whole thing friction fit alone?
 
slaroy said:
I love all of the pictures of these great axes you guys have. I have recently started fixing up a few old axe heads I had collected, and now I am hooked.

On a recent trip to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, I was able to find a number of old axe heads at garage sales/ antique shops/ flea markets. Some of them are real dogs, some are real nice... I found a Kelly Flint Edge boy's axe, an R. King broadaxe just to name the highlights. More pics to come on those.

Here are a couple of finds that you might be able to help me identify. The first is the cruiser I picked up for $6. I wasn't too sure about it but for the money I was willing to take a chance. The stamps are light but I can at least say that it shows the weight "2 1/2" and below it a number 8 and some letters... I and pretty sure it starts with an "M" have you guys seen anything like this?

DSC_0225.jpg


DSC_0231.jpg




The next is a boys axe that I picked up for some change, literally. It has these ridges in the eye of the axe and no markings that I can find, even after a vinegar bath. The ridges seem to have a sharp edge toward the poll, maybe to keep the eye from shifting forward on impact? I haven't seen anything like it, and was just wondering if any of you have any experience; is it worth fixing up? Also, it seems like I might have a heck of a time trying to hang a handle with those teeth... Thanks in advance for your help!

DSC_0234.jpg


DSC_0236.jpg
Click to expand...

i have several of these boys axe heads with the ridges in the eye. no markings. excellent steel and one of my favorite sizes . you did good if you got one for change, i have paid as much as $7.00 for one.
the cruiser is a real find. worth way more than what you paid. you might find it to be your go-to axe because of its smaller weight and size is real handy for all sorts of chores in the woods.

thanks for posting

buzz
 
Buzz, you were right so far on the boy's axe. I wasn't sure what to expect, but after some further sharpening and honing, that little thing turned out to be a great little axe, if not too pretty. I used it to limb up and fell a little mulberry tree that was growing to close to one of my out-buildings. It made quick work of it.

No luck on finding a handle for the cruiser today at the local hardware store, but I did pick up some hardware for my first attempt at putting together a sheath/ bit guard using an old fire hose. Heck, if it works for cross cut saws, why not an axe?

-Scott
 
i almost said something earlier about finding a handle for the cruiser. difficult if not impossible.
it has a different size eye and the length is shorter, i have not been able to locate a cruiser handle around here.
luck finding one, if you do let me know, i'd be interested

buzz
 
G-pig said:
Make sure the wedge is driven really, really deep.
Click to expand...

And it doesn't hurt to bevel the top edges of the wedge before you drive it so that it's less likely to split. I've cracked an eye while driving the wedge before but I blame that on a bad heat treat. The eye shouldn't be brittle.


slaroy said:
What is the best way to trim the wedge? It seems like it would be prone to breaking/ cracking if I tried to wittle on it too much.
Click to expand...

A fine tooth pull saw works best for me.



schmittie said:
Just curious, if you don't use a metal wedge, do you glue the wooden one? Or is the whole thing friction fit alone?
Click to expand...

I will often apply construction adhesive to the handle and into the eye before final assembly. I'll squeeze a little into the kerf for the wedge, too. More recently I've started using a generic version of Swel-Lock on the haft and wedge. Also, letting the axe handle protrude a small distance through the eye, like 1/4", helps to keep the head secure. The wedge is wider in that last 1/4" and if the handle starts to slip at all it is quickly stopped by the wedge. Make sure your handle and wedge are both bone dry.
 
markv said:
i almost said something earlier about finding a handle for the cruiser. difficult if not impossible.
it has a different size eye and the length is shorter, i have not been able to locate a cruiser handle around here.
luck finding one, if you do let me know, i'd be interested
Click to expand...

Cruiser handles are always on the shelf at my local McLendons Hardware. House Handle also stocks them.
 
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