Boys axe edge/profile

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Aug 21, 2013
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So, I have this boys axe I picked up at an "antique" store - $7.80 or so after a discount from the owner for buying multiple tools. Had to work for it as the the section with tools had a path about a foot n half wide, caged cabinets on one side, open shelves about 3 feet deep, both about 8 feet high. Anyway here is the axe itself:

o8ptMfF.jpg


Needed some cleaning - that is mostly finished, mushrooming taken back, sharp edges mostly smoothed out.

The new handle is already underway and is looking good. Looks like someone hit it with a grinder or other electric tool as there are what I call "idiot marks" where the last user slipped a bit n put some marks in it on the cheek on one side.



I say "idiot mark" as I've done the same sort of thing when using a metal punch to remove take-down levers on my firearms - totally avoidable and purely user carelessness lol.

Anyway, trying to put a good grind on it and have removed enough metal to make the profile what I wanted. It's plenty sharp now but have some questions. Here is where it stands:

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Where am I at in your estimations? It came to me with a worn toe and some nicks in the edge. I've left the toe and heal pretty much intact and focused on the main portion or the bit.

I feel that if I take it any further to remove all of the grind marks that I'm going to have to remove more metal overall and end up with having to reprofile it quite a bit. From what you see here, what would you do? Take it back further? Use it as intended and remove more material as necessary in future sharpenings? Using 3 hand files and a quick once over with 220 grit just to smooth out marks on the edge.

It does have the "ridges" in the eye and seems like a solid piece without a maker's mark.

Plan to use it or potentially gift it to my father. I sent a Collins boys axe home with him to give to my brother for his birthday - my brother mentioned the old man almost didn't pass it on to him because he liked it so much.

Pretty handles are great but an axe with out a proper edge doesn't sit well with me.

Any ideas or suggestions (even leave it alone) are appreciated.
 
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I wouldn't take out all the tool marks now. Just get the profile and sharpness I wanted. That's the way I do them since they are users not wall hangers. Sometimes I don't even take out a deep nick, but wait until further sharpening to even out the edge. My way may not be the proper way.
 
I wouldn't take out all the tool marks now. Just get the profile and sharpness I wanted. That's the way I do them since they are users not wall hangers. Sometimes I don't even take out a deep nick, but wait until further sharpening to even out the edge. My way may not be the proper way.

I like this approach and has changed my mind on user axes. I used to think I should joint the edge first to take out all the nicks like I would do with other edged tools (eg a chisel). Proper or not, it makes sense to me.
 
I agree with HalfAxe, for a user the marks from the previous owner don't matter. If you go crazy trying to remove them you may end up with a more delicate bit only siuted for limbing or similar work. To me the bit seems to have little wear, though most of my axes are far from pretty or collector quality. All of mine are users. If you are worried about them reflecting poorly on you, don't it is obvious that the Axe is presently being sharpened with care.
 
I use a file, so axes that come to me with nicks just get them worn down slowly, as others said though I'm not sure this is the right method. I suspect there is some additional possibility of chipping when there are nicks, but I just use them carefully and slowly reprofile them as I use them.

You could also make a gauge to make sure you don't go too thin.
 
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I don't know your dad, so take this with a grain of salt. I would put more work into a blade I was giving away than one I keep for myself, because chances are the recipient won't take the time and effort to reprofile and polish it himself. Browsing through used tools like this at auctions, flea markets, etc., it's obvious that the vast majority of people out there have no problem making the edge more thick & blunt, or putting nicks and grinder gouges in it. That's easy for them to do on their own. But apparently almost no one knows how to put a nice thin edge on an axe and blend it into the main grind. So, if I'm giving one away to somebody, I make sure it's right to start with.

It's hard to tell how thick the edge is from the pictures, but from what I can see, I would go ahead an reprofile the head and blend it back into the grind, and make sure the entire edge is sharp with no nick or blunt spots on the toe & heel.
 
Love the previous picture! They must have borrowed that axe from out of a school bus/fire truck or off the decor wall of a bar.
 
Great perspectives on grinds and the difference as to preferences.

I don't know your dad, so take this with a grain of salt. I would put more work into a blade I was giving away than one I keep for myself, because chances are the recipient won't take the time and effort to reprofile and polish it himself.

Possum, I like your reasoning that if you're going to do it; do it right, do it all. This won't hang on a wall. If I keep it, it will get used. If it is gifted to my father, it will get used some on his property and stored indoors. Something tells me he will get a kick out of the idea of me working it up regardless. Most likely, it will be carted to elk camp, left out for his buddies to note and ask him about it lol. It should be well-done.

Probably should just keep it in the vice longer. Stepping away for a while and coming back regularly seems to yield better results for me.

Halfaxe- Think what you said about it not being necessary is true as well. I don't normally like to buy heads that have been over-molested by previous owners. Though, The normal wear adds character as far as I'm concerned- as long as it doesn't impede integrity or function. This thing could most likely run as is.

The pictures posted made me laugh.

Is this one of the rare $400 cruisers?

Did you say thick?
tumblr_ms5t83f6zL1qlatf4o1_1280.jpg
 
I don't know your dad, so take this with a grain of salt. I would put more work into a blade I was giving away than one I keep for myself, because chances are the recipient won't take the time and effort to reprofile and polish it himself. Browsing through used tools like this at auctions, flea markets, etc., it's obvious that the vast majority of people out there have no problem making the edge more thick & blunt, or putting nicks and grinder gouges in it. That's easy for them to do on their own. But apparently almost no one knows how to put a nice thin edge on an axe and blend it into the main grind. So, if I'm giving one away to somebody, I make sure it's right to start with.

It's hard to tell how thick the edge is from the pictures, but from what I can see, I would go ahead an reprofile the head and blend it back into the grind, and make sure the entire edge is sharp with no nick or blunt spots on the toe & heel.


I'm in the same school with the Possum. I'd do it up right whether it is a gift or one for myself.

I certainly wouldn't want to gift an axe with a crappy edge. I wouldn't worry about getting all the old grind marks out but I would shape the bit the way I think it should be shaped and file the edge to the profile I prefer. And hone it.

For my own personal axes, I just know that I'm not gonna pick up and use an axe with a grind I don't like. Why would I when I have a collection of axes that are ground how I like them? So a personal axe gets the same treatment as a gift - I want it to be right.

The the original poster, Agent H, I suspect you have a TT Kelly Woodslasher there. They often came with a label and no stamp. Not their top shelf axe but still equal to anything sold today - even the fancy import stuff.
 
Don't get me wrong; I put the work into my own tools as well to get them the way I want. I'm just sayin' that sometimes a working edge is all that's needed for the task at hand, or I know I can take out that nick with the next sharpening job. But with other folks, there's a good chance the edge will never get better than it was the moment I handed it to 'em, so I want them to experience the difference of using a finely tuned edge at least once. :)
 
The the original poster, Agent H, I suspect you have a TT Kelly Woodslasher there. They often came with a label and no stamp. Not their top shelf axe but still equal to anything sold today - even the fancy import stuff.

I was wondering what I was working on. Thanks Square_peg.

But with other folks, there's a good chance the edge will never get better than it was the moment I handed it to 'em, so I want them to experience the difference of using a finely tuned edge at least once. :)

Reason enough right there. It's back on the bench. While time consuming, it makes the tool.

Did you say thick?
tumblr_ms5t83f6zL1qlatf4o1_1280.jpg

Since he is so far off the mark, maybe there was a beaver and that is what's on the lens...
 
I wouldn't take out all the tool marks now. Just get the profile and sharpness I wanted. That's the way I do them since they are users not wall hangers. Sometimes I don't even take out a deep nick, but wait until further sharpening to even out the edge. My way may not be the proper way.

I would totally agree with this. Maybe take a little off the cheeks to get the angle you want and the rest will come to fruition as you use and sharpen.
 
The filing seems worth it:

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Toe looks a little weird due to reflection but I like the picture.

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Was trying to pattern the new handle after this Collins boy’s axe. I really like the angles leading into the swell and came pretty close.
The fawn’s foot is steeper and the belly is just a touch thinner than the throat/grip on purpose.

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Head down
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Wedge
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Swell
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Grind
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Definitely worth the time.

The original poster, Agent H, I suspect you have a TT Kelly Woodslasher there. They often came with a label and no stamp. Not their top shelf axe but still equal to anything sold today - even the fancy import stuff.
I wonder if this is from the same line? The larger one also was red at one point.

o4iCSED.jpg
 
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That turned out great! And I like the handle mods...much more vintage vibe and likely feels much better too.
 
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