Recommendation? Bradford Paring Knife AEB-L steel : too thin for other utility use ?

DocJD

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Jan 29, 2016
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Tough steel but maybe this one is too thin a blade for other uses ?

Just curious as to the reasonable limits I should expect for the steel at this thickness .
 
I have this knife and its the pencil thin (or thinner?) handle which I think is the real limitation to it. Although I use it a lot in the kitchen because it's a mean cutter, I haven't tried "harder" uses but it's pretty tough, I have dropped it on my kitchen tile floor without it taking discernible damage.
 
To me it’s too long and pointy for a paring knife. But thin steel is good in a paring knife
 
I’d use it for anything less stressful than carving/chopping hard wood.

Any other cutting/carving should be fine with that steel and hardness as long as you take care not to bend the edge…

Looks very sharp!
 
AEB-L at that hardness and a 0.090" blade stock should be pretty tough for general use. That's as thick or thicker than most run-of-the-mill kitchen knives. It's the same thickness as a Benchmade Bugout blade, and AEB-L is tougher than S30V. It also takes a sca-reeeaamin' edge a lot easier, I like the stuff a lot.
 
Just another thought…

As long as you’re just cutting and not hacking/twisting etc., the EDGE thickness will be more important than the blade thickness regarding damage. Check the edge on your thumbnail after “harder” cutting, and if the material you’re cutting causes any micro-chipping, just add a microbevel (or increase the edge angle) and you should be good to go.
 
I have used a Victorinox folding serrated paring knife around the farm for cutting baling twine and rope. It's one of the best three knives for that purpose that I have found, the other two being a Bugout and a Meadowlark. I stopped carrying it mainly because I could not find a good sheath for it, and partly because I do not like liner locks. I would love to have one in AEB-L.
 
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