Brass to wood

[Jackson knife works]

I've been working on adding some brass accenting to my handles recently and I'm having issues getting them to stick. Specifically I'm having issues with the brass to dymalux but not to carbon fiber or trustone. I'm using jb weld clear weld epoxy that I've had no issues with attaching and pinning scales to the knife before.
My question would be is there a better way to make composite type scales or is the epoxy just crap? Do I just need to switch? I've heard good things about west systems epoxy. Thanks in advance!

 

[john april]

tell us about the mating surfaces. i usually sand to 120 or 220 grit so there are scratch lines in each surface to be joined.

 

[Carterwhopkins]

West G Flex is the best in my opinion...I make mainly Japanese style Wa handles, but also a decent amount of western handles and there is metal in almost every handle....no issues and my handles are in professional kitchens. As with any adhesive, you do need to watch heat buildup during sanding. Make sure your surfaces are flat, clean, and scuffed up....I use a little coarser grit than John, 60-120, but I am sure 220 would also work well.

 

[John Cahoon]

You can also use a Dremel to scuff the surfaces if you're careful not to go over the edges, I do both on all mating surfaces and all materials. Kinda creates epoxy channels/basins. I also use regular jbweld if one of the surfaces is metal due to the high heat tolerance advertised as 400F, especially copper. Haven't tried G flex yet but it's on a shopping list. Hope that helps.


ETA: WOO HOO 400 posts!!

 

[Hengelo_77]

Aligment pins

 

[Jackson knife works]

tell us about the mating surfaces. i usually sand to 120 or 220 grit so there are scratch lines in each surface to be joined.

I've been sanding with 120 both sides, cleaning and drying the surfaces. I didn't pay much attention to heat build up while I was sanding the first set that broke but I got suspicious and was real careful with the second set and it still broke. Although both set broke after I drilled holes for the pins.

I cut out trenches on one set and epoxied in a stainless rod to see if that helps but I'll probably still switch epoxy.

Random thought, I've also been experimenting with a powder pigment in the epoxy, do you think that could degrade the bond?

 

[Coy Ranch]

Random thought, I've also been experimenting with a powder pigment in the epoxy, do you think that could degrade the bond?

I did that once. I kept the mixing tray handy to tell when it all set up,... it never did. Do you still have your mixing tray to see how it set up?

 

[Carterwhopkins]

In my Japanese style handles, there is an internal dowel that provides lateral stability and additional bonding. I have used pins in western style handles, but you have to be careful to put them deep enough into the handle so as not to sand the handle and reveal the pin (been there a few times).

I use West Graphite powder to tint the epoxy black.

 

[milkbaby]

I sand all surfaces to 60 grit (even the pins) and use either BladeBond Ultra or West Systems G-Flex. When I clean, I use acetone first but then follow up with isopropanol (at least 91%). Acetone readily available to most consumers potentially leaves a contaminating film whereas the isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) is cleaner.

I also like to wait 24 hours after glue up for the epoxy to fully cure. I keep the mixing cup with mixing/applicator stick in it by the knife and gauge how good the cure is by how hard the leftover epoxy is in the cup. If you don't mix it close enough to the right ratio, your glue up won't be as good.

For coloring the epoxy, you can use the dyes made for it but otherwise too much could weaken the bond. If you prep your surfaces correctly, you don't need to add any color, the bond line will be essentially invisible.

Metal spacers WILL heat up quickly when you're grinding away at them or even just sawing sometimes and cause epoxy failure once you get it too hot. Ask me how I know...

 

[Jackson knife works]

I did that once. I kept the mixing tray handy to tell when it all set up,... it never did. Do you still have your mixing tray to see how it set up?

I still have it, seemed like it was fine.

I sand all surfaces to 60 grit (even the pins) and use either BladeBond Ultra or West Systems G-Flex. When I clean, I use acetone first but then follow up with isopropanol (at least 91%). Acetone readily available to most consumers potentially leaves a contaminating film whereas the isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) is cleaner.

I also like to wait 24 hours after glue up for the epoxy to fully cure. I keep the mixing cup with mixing/applicator stick in it by the knife and gauge how good the cure is by how hard the leftover epoxy is in the cup. If you don't mix it close enough to the right ratio, your glue up won't be as good.

For coloring the epoxy, you can use the dyes made for it but otherwise too much could weaken the bond. If you prep your surfaces correctly, you don't need to add any color, the bond line will be essentially invisible.

Metal spacers WILL heat up quickly when you're grinding away at them or even just sawing sometimes and cause epoxy failure once you get it too hot. Ask me how I know...

I order soome g-flex yesterday, not feeling confident in what I was using anymore haha. The dye was an experiment more than anything, not sure if i'll continue to do it. I'm honestly thinking it was a combo of the wrong epoxy, overheating and torquing it to much while drilling the holes.

In my Japanese style handles, there is an internal dowel that provides lateral stability and additional bonding. I have used pins in western style handles, but you have to be careful to put them deep enough into the handle so as not to sand the handle and reveal the pin (been there a few times).

I use West Graphite powder to tint the epoxy black.

I think that's going to work pretty well in the set I tried it on.