Bravo Necker vs Izula Convex/bevel edge pro/cons?

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Jan 4, 2010
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as the title says I'm looking at both of these knives, the Izula I pretty much was ready to order up until I found out about the Bark River Bravo Necker, it's identical in OAL length, blade length, and just a TOUCH heavier with scales. (.3oz)

optional scales/handles, they look amazing and I think will definitely add to the usefulness of the knife

I would be using this as an EDC neck knife.

1095 vs 12C27

not really sure here as I'm pretty much a knife noob any opinions/facts greatly appreciated.

now convex edge vs the bevel edge, what are the pros/cons to each?

I know many also re-profile the Izula to a convex edge too....

I'll probably one day own both but for now....I need to pick one.:confused:

thanks

Chad
 
I cant vouch for the izula, but i just received my bravo necker a couple of days ago and love it. I carry it in the optional ksf leather sheath on my belt and hardly notice its there. I dont know much about the blade steel, but from what little experience i have it seems to perform about like BRKT's A-2. It is hands down the best cutting/sharpest knife i own, with my other barkie's coming in a close second.
 
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there was a thread about this earlier today in general knife discussion. you could check that out. I cant vouch for the BRKT but my izula is great. and is also costs a bit less. and the warranty is amazing.
 
there was a thread about this earlier today in general knife discussion. you could check that out. I cant vouch for the BRKT but my izula is great. and is also costs a bit less. and the warranty is amazing.

yeah that's why I made this thread....mainly to address the differences in a convex edge vs a bevel edge with the two knives, and then pros/cons to putting a convex edge on the Izula.

had some good info there too though!

Chad
 
a convex edge is sort of rounded. while the full flad grind on the izula tapers to the edge from the spine. many have their preferences but they will each suffice.
 
It's easy to convex the Izula edge and does make a difference. The Izula is an amazing knife for the money. I don't know about the BRKT steel but I would guess the 1095 is tougher and although it's not stainless, I've never had an issue with rust. Both are good knives. If you buy one, you probably won't need the other but will still want one. I would love to have the BRKT necker but as of now I have two Izulas so it would be hard to justify.
 
a convex edge is sort of rounded. while the full flad grind on the izula tapers to the edge from the spine. many have their preferences but they will each suffice.

It's easy to convex the Izula edge and does make a difference. The Izula is an amazing knife for the money. I don't know about the BRKT steel but I would guess the 1095 is tougher and although it's not stainless, I've never had an issue with rust. Both are good knives. If you buy one, you probably won't need the other but will still want one. I would love to have the BRKT necker but as of now I have two Izulas so it would be hard to justify.

can one/both of you explain what the pros/cons are to a convex edge are? I know people have their preferences....but I want to know WHY;)

thanks

Chad
 
can one/both of you explain what the pros/cons are to a convex edge are? I know people have their preferences....but I want to know WHY;)

thanks

Chad

some people like red and some people like blue. but i cant tell you why. i like a FFG because it is a tough grind and is an all around good blade. if you get the izula you can convex the edge.
 
sigh....

what is the pros/cons to a convex vs flat/bevel grind is what I'm getting at?

I'm a newbie and trying to understand the differences and no one can seem to tell me other than "its personal preference"

Chad
 
i would go to wikipedia and search blade grinds.

thanks:rolleyes:

went to wikipedia before coming here it doesn't tell you much, and I figured someone could give me a run down on pros/cons without being so difficult...read in another thread a guy would NEVER put a convex edge on but no reason why.

Chad
 
thanks:rolleyes:

went to wikipedia before coming here it doesn't tell you much, and I figured someone could give me a run down on pros/cons without being so difficult...read in another thread a guy would NEVER put a convex edge on but no reason why.

Chad

like you said it boils down to preference. im not exactly sure what the advantage is for a convex grind. im sure it has it advantages. but for the most part the average person wont use their knife hard enough to notice the difference between the two.
 
Copied from Ragnar's Blade Grinds page here. He calls it a Moran edge, which is another name for the convex edge. Pretty much explains everything.

The currently hot blade grind among custom knife makers is the Moran Edge. This is named after Bill Moran, who popularized it on his now classic knives. Bill calls it an apple seed shape. This is a slightly convex profile, extending to the back of the blade, with the radius of curvature decreasing toward the edge. This seemingly gives the best possible edge. The slightly wider angle at the edge gives the effect of a secondary bevel. The smooth transition to the nearly parallel sides of the blade causes minimal resistance moving through the medium being cut. The edge can be made very keen, but is still durable. For many years I ground, or reground if necessary, my knives to this shape.

The disadvantage to this profile is the resharpening. It's difficult to restore an edge in the field. Most folks establish and maintain these edges with a slack belt grinder. More recently it's been found that you can do a very nice job with abrasive papers and a soft surface like a mouse pad or a few magazines. The degree of softness of the surface controls the amount of secondary bevel.

If you get a leather strop, maintaining convex edges is relatively easy. If you get a Sharpmaker, maintaining a V edge is relatively easy. Learn freehand sharpening, and you could probably maintain both.
 
Copied from Ragnar's Blade Grinds page here. He calls it a Moran edge, which is another name for the convex edge. Pretty much explains everything.



If you get a leather strop, maintaining convex edges is relatively easy. If you get a Sharpmaker, maintaining a V edge is relatively easy. Learn freehand sharpening, and you could probably maintain both.

thats a good site. thanks for posting it.
 
Copied from Ragnar's Blade Grinds page here. He calls it a Moran edge, which is another name for the convex edge. Pretty much explains everything.



If you get a leather strop, maintaining convex edges is relatively easy. If you get a Sharpmaker, maintaining a V edge is relatively easy. Learn freehand sharpening, and you could probably maintain both.

thank you kindly :D

Chad
 
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