Bravo1....on batoning?

ishiyumisan

ishiyumisan

Joined
Apr 17, 2005
Messages
465
I love this knive but I have my thoughts on the Skeleton Tang?
How holds the batoninig with skeleton tang?
Balance_Skeleton_sized.jpg


Owners, any or thoughts or impression about the performs?
Thank you


tknife said:
A little Bravo 1 batoning
hike005.jpg
Click to expand...
 
If you baton a knife properly, the tang style isn't that relevant.

Look at how many stick tang Moras get banged around and hold up just fine.
 
When I baton wood, I noticed that the force ends of up on the blades, not the handle/tang. I have battoned with partial tang knives just fine as a result, and there is other members here who have battoned with folders (I know at least one used Opinels) successfully- and that sort has NO tang.
 
I agree with the others, there's more than enough steel in that tang for heavy use. I would have no worries batoning that :thumbup:
 
The handle should be parallel to the object you are batoning. Failure typically happens when not paying attention to the angle of the blade as you're batoning. There should be no force or pressure on the handle except to keep it level with the object. Otherwise you create a pivot point that can fail.
 
I have no worries of it failing, but if it did they have a no questions asked warranty.
 
The vibrations was my first consent !
After that I read This Thread I feel myself much better now.
thanks to all :thumbup:
 
I posted a thread over on KF... I was purposefully abusive and batoned the knife in a not so nice way, levered it sideways etc, and the knife laughed at my meager attempts. The tree is no longer with us... :D

David
 
No problems IMO. There is a lamanated structure there. Lamanated structures are stronger than any of the components seperatly. The scales and pins add strength to the steel, and the steel adds strength to the scales and pins. Be comforted. Nada problemo.
 
GibsonFan said:
G3 is right about pressure on the handle. Here's a good article that explores the subject pretty well.
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Great resource there, GibsonFan. It confirms my suspicions about batoning. What the author didn't really delve into is the length of the blade vs. the diameter of the wood. My rule of thumb is half the blade length. You can split larger stuff, but the stress goes up a lot past 50%. IMHO, batoning is a last ditch effort unless the knife is really made for it-- like a splitting froe. In fact, I would like to see a batoning knife made for WSK's. Another test would be to try smaller machete-like blades like goloks. I suspect the milder steel and larger dimensions would be less prone to snapping-- pure speculation at this point. Another avenue to pursue is using small hatchets like the Vaughn Sub Zero for batoning techniques. The Vaughn is so much cheaper and at least on a par weight-wise than a large knife and certainly much more appropriate to be banging on. You get all the other good hatchet qualitites too.
 
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