Breeden Knives Make It Happen !

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Apr 13, 2007
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Is it possible to make fire in the rain using only natural tinder and a ferro-rod that's less than 1/4" long ?


Not only possible but very easy when using my Breeden blade !:D

[youtube]OfyXBlLqKug&feature=youtu.be[/youtube]

Doesn't appear to be raining now I look back at the video, I think it's because of the tree canopy cover !

Here are a couple of pics I took today as well~

The whole forest was waterlogged from all the rain we've had~

P2200002.jpg


Found a cool little cave that would probably be okay for an emergency shelter, Maisy went in to explore~

P2200010.jpg


And yeah before anyone says it....I will get myself a new ferro-rod !!!!!:stupid:
 
Looks good pit! You touch up that part of the spine some?

Not yet Ken, it doesn't strike very good up near the handle so I did think of touching that part up, down near the tip it throws great sparks.
 
That was pretty cool Pitdog. I am sure glad we do not get that much rain here where I live.

Bryan
 
Good stuff....but why are you still using that bloody stump of a ferro rod?!
I bet that's the one you cut yourself using isn't it?! :hopelessness:

Nice snap of the up rooted tree btw.
 
Nicely done Pit, Bryan's knives have no trouble whittling feather sticks. I think the next level of sharpness would be a very fine laser. I keep offering to send you a new fire steel lol, you really should come off the money for a new one before next winter...and strike it closer to the tip to start with next time and you won't waste so much of it :p

Not yet Ken, it doesn't strike very good up near the handle so I did think of touching that part up, down near the tip it throws great sparks.

From what I can tell Bryan's full sized knives won't strike a fire steel as well near the handle as they will out near the tip even with a sharply squared spine. I'm thinking it's because of the differential heat treat (soft back draw) that he does to give the blade less rigidity and more durability. It is a trade off but for me it was worth learning to use the part of the spine out nearer to the tip to strike with in order to have the more durable blade in a survival situation. It allows the knife to take more abuse like batoning and gives it more flex in lateral stress. Besides, sharply squared spines are a stress riser and make a knife weaker. I'd rather square an area out near the spine anyway than one near the handle, that way if it does snap there I still have something left to work with.
 
Good stuff....but why are you still using that bloody stump of a ferro rod?!
I bet that's the one you cut yourself using isn't it?! :hopelessness:

Nice snap of the up rooted tree btw.

Hahaha....yeah it was buddy, that kept running through my mind as I did the video !!!
 
Nicely done Pit, Bryan's knives have no trouble whittling feather sticks. I think the next level of sharpness would be a very fine laser. I keep offering to send you a new fire steel lol, you really should come off the money for a new one before next winter...and strike it closer to the tip to start with next time and you won't waste so much of it :p



From what I can tell Bryan's full sized knives won't strike a fire steel as well near the handle as they will out near the tip even with a sharply squared spine. I'm thinking it's because of the differential heat treat (soft back draw) that he does to give the blade less rigidity and more durability. It is a trade off but for me it was worth learning to use the part of the spine out nearer to the tip to strike with in order to have the more durable blade in a survival situation. It allows the knife to take more abuse like batoning and gives it more flex in lateral stress. Besides, sharply squared spines are a stress riser and make a knife weaker. I'd rather square an area out near the spine anyway than one near the handle, that way if it does snap there I still have something left to work with.

That would make sense as the spine does feel sharp enough !
 
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