How did you put the threads on the tang? I too can lathe up a cap and understand your process there - but how to get the threads on the tang....
TF
Hey TF,
I orginally got the idea from Enzo.
I don't like all the hard lines in their tang reduction, but that is where the idea came from.
Other than that, you can have to plan your reduction, with the thread size. Oversize it a bit at the end, and when you round the corners of the rectangular stock, machine it the diameter it should be for thread die. The threads will be deeper on one side than the other, but if you make sure you get enough thread engagement, you will be fine.
Support the steel close to the die, and go slow. Clean the threads often, and then clean them up again after heat treat/tempering.
I'm curious about the choice to thread the tang. I understand the advantage that threading provides, but isn't there the possibility that the buttcap might rotate a bit? Plus, a well-peened tang can be a beautiful detail.
I am have tons of reasons for the choice to thread
I realize my method is not "traditional" and may not appeal to everyone's tastes. But, that is the great thing about making knives and not having to sell any. They are for me
If other people like them, that is just bonus.
Here are my reasons for threading:
Steel. My biggest reason for doing that is the steel. I am a HUGE fan of O1. There is a lot of controversy around differentially heat treating O1 with a torch, so I wanted to be able to do it with the kiln. Even if I used the kiln and did not quench the tang, O1 will still air harden in the 50's. You won't be peening nothing there
Even its is untreated state, O1 is still pretty hard (Compared to steels used traditionally in this style of knife) and tough to peen.
The way I did it was to kiln heat treat the O1, and then spring temper the tang. Since I don't have to worry about peening, I could spring temper the whole tang, which I think is optimal.
The other cool thing about this style, is I can pretty much do any type of steel. A2, D2, 440C, S30V. While breaking from "tradition" with those steels, it could be something that a customer wants. I understand all the advantages of a differentially hardened blade, but those advantages diminish with the smaller blade size. Again, my opinion.
Solid butt cap. I am not a knife abuser, and I generally think about what I am doing, and what type of wood I am working with. Even with that, I will pound the butt of a knife into wood for one handed use, or very, very repetitious work. I feel a little bit better about pounding on metal than wood, even though I have done it with wood handled knives too. Another cool thing about being a knife maker is I pretty much know I can fix anything I do, so I am not afraid to do just about anything.
When I was thinking about this, I had more reasons than that. If they come to me, I will post again. But, I also wanted to respond to your comment on the cap un-screwing.
Besides screwing things together, I glue everything up with West Systems epoxy. I have worked with them in the past to find the best epoxy for my application and am using one of their impact grade epoxies. I have done lots of tests with, and couldn't be happier with the performance. I personally think you have more chance of the antler or curly birch blowing apart in pieces before you do of that cap coming un-twisted.
I realize there can be drawbacks and benefits to everything. I have often thought about doing things differently, and am not opposed to it, but I am more than happy with this style of build.
B
:thumbup:
Brian does some amazing work..