Brine quench

L

LRB

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Feb 28, 2006
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I want to try a brine quench with 1095. Could someone tell me how much salt, in volume, per gallon, to get a 9% solution? Also, is it necessary to warm, or heat the brine for quenching. Thankyou for any info.
 
One gallon of water weights 8.34 pounds so 9% is 8.34 X 0.09 = 0.75 pounds. I used a 8% solution 0.66 pounds per gallon the last quench and the results were great. I did heat the solution to 130 F.

As far as volume for each pound of salt you will need 1/(.09 x 8.34)= 1.33 gallons of water.
 
why would/do you heat your brine? You add salt to the water to help delay the formation of a vapor barrier which helps even out the quench. by raiseing the temperature you are minutely accelerating vaporbarrier formation.

You heat oil to reduce the viscousity which lets convection cool the blade faster.
 
It is my understanding that the salt reduces and disperses the vapor barrier, rather than delaying it. To my thinking, delaying the barrier would imply that it's going to happen unaffected, just later than sooner. I don't think the VB can be delayed since it is a direct result of the heat. I don't really know, but I can more understand reducing it over delaying it. I would like more details if anyone can add to this.
 
According to ASM raising the temperature of the brine reduces the severity (warping and cracking) of the quench.
 
Have fun but get used to cracked and broken blades it's part of quenching in water or brine. Been there done it and yet i still keep doing it.

Bob
 
Will the egg cook at 130F :) lunch I am done with 1095 and all the drama, I wanted to remake one of the first folders that I made and lost, it had a 1095 blade and spring. from now on it 1084 for me, I tried to find a small piece for a quick templete and its all gone.
 
Here's what I am HTing. The steel is 1/4" x 3/8" at it's widest. I also make smaller versions which are 1/4" x 1/4". Water quench. The smaller, so far, have not cracked, but I am getting cracks on some of the larger. All the cracks run with the grain, and are very fine, and not easy to see. I get one or two on each, and they go for maybe 3/8" long to 1/2". They appear to be shallow cracks, but can't say for sure. This one in the photo has two, but they don't show in the photo.

pennyknife736_640x480.jpg
 
Sorry, my computer went down. Thanks to all who replied.
Don, that is a colonial period pocket fire starting kit. There is a cotton cord and flint in the pouch, with the steel hanging below. It has to be high carbon and hard to spark well. The striker is 1095 1/4" thick, 3/8" wide, and 2 15/16" long. Unfortunately, these work best at full hard, or at least very close to full hard, as far as my experimenting has shown.
 
Patrickknives said:
Will the egg cook at 130F :) lunch I am done with 1095 and all the drama, I wanted to remake one of the first folders that I made and lost, it had a 1095 blade and spring. from now on it 1084 for me, I tried to find a small piece for a quick templete and its all gone.
Click to expand...

So Patrick, are you brine quenching the 1084?? or are you saying your through with the 1095/brine drama and back to just doing regular 1084 oil quench?

In either event, someone: can you see some success quinching 1984 in brine?

regards, m
 
Well, I just completed the brine quench on one of these strikers using Patricks method. Came out great so far. No sign of cracking yet. I used a propane torch to temper back the side ears where the holding pin goes through. The brine was heated to 135°. I figure a few hours will tell. Have not heard the dreaded ping yet. I found the brine to be much less violent than plain water.
 
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