Recommendation? Brine vs Hydraulic oil

[J.R. Shelley]

Hello, I'm still pretty new to everything on here and just need a few recommendations on what I should use for my first quench which I should have time to do in a few days.

I am making a few knives out of 1095 steel and have had a bunch of different recommendations for my heat treat methods. From what I've researched for 1095 something like a Parks 50 would probably be the best bet, but as I'm new to this shelling out $180 for it probably isn't in the cards (for now).

My first recommendation was to use a brine quench, which I think will work well as I can use a sous vide that I have to keep it at a perfect consistent temperature as well as it being pretty cheap. The second was from a local forge who told me that they pretty much use hydraulic oil exclusively for all of their 1095 blades.

Just wondering if anyone has any feelings one way or another on using these techniques, or had any other (equally cheap) ideas.

Thanks in advance for your responses!

 

[weo]

but as I'm new to this shelling out $180 for it probably isn't in the cards (for now)

If you think making is something you're going to do more than a few times, spend the money on the proper stuff. It'll last a LONG time.
I'd avoid using hydraulic oil for health/safety reasons, and because it's not designed for this application, will probably not last as long, so you'll have to replace it sooner.
Cheap oil still costs $15/gal, and you'll probably want 3 gallons, so that's $45 right there. Add the cost of gas (I lived in the sticks for a while, so that might not be a concern for you), and you're starting to get to a significant portion of the $180 for 5 gallons of the proper stuff.

 

[SBuzek]

If you are only doing 4-5 blades a year get 3 gallon of Canola oil. If you planning to do several ades a year go-ahead and buy the dedicated quench oil.
You will get better results and it will last you several years. Also since you are new to this get 1080 or 1084, again you will get better results than trying to hold 1095 at temperature for 10 minutes.

 

[SBuzek]

One more thing, if your local forge guy is just telling you to get 1095 red and quench in hydraulic oil I probably would not trust much of anything they tell you.

 

[scott kozub]

JR, I see you're in Calgary. Canadian Forge and Ferrier has it for $164.99 for 3 gallons. Shipping and taxes brought this up to $229.41. This is a good price as it's in Canadian Pesos and you don't need to worry about shipping across the boarder. It's still a lot but when factor in reduction in cracked blades from Brine it's a lot better.

I ordered some recently and it arrived to my door in Ontario in just a few days.

 

[Grayzer86]

JR, I see you're in Calgary. Canadian Forge and Ferrier has it for $164.99 for 3 gallons. Shipping and taxes brought this up to $229.41. This is a good price as it's in Canadian Pesos and you don't need to worry about shipping across the boarder. It's still a lot but when factor in reduction in cracked blades from Brine it's a lot better.

I ordered some recently and it arrived to my door in Ontario in just a few days.

I ordered a pail from them late Monday, and it was in my garage in Sask on Wednesday. Super impressed with their service so far.

 

[scherf68]

I wanted to try brine after learning 1095 is not a beginner steel, needs controlled heat and parks oil which is fast quench. Person told me it was easy steel for home heat treat, after much research I went to 1084 for home use. My leftover 1095 gets sent out now, at least until I can afford Parks and oven, minimum 1500 for the pair. I really want an oven, will you guys start a gofund for it, lol?

 

[Drew Riley]

The second was from a local forge who told me that they pretty much use hydraulic oil exclusively for all of their 1095 blades.

Yikes...

I definitely wouldn't use hydraulic oil. You're welcome to try the brine quench, but I'd plan on losing a blade or two. Quenching blades at full thickness (I.E., don't grind in any bevels) will decrease your chances of failure, but if you don't have a belt grinder, you obviously won't be getting much further along.

The next best option is heated canola oil, but as others have pointed out, the stuff isn't really as cheap as it looks when you look at how much you'll need vs. how many blades you'll get out of it. It does tend to go rancid after a bit.

Personally, I'd scrimp and save for the P#50, and if anything, you may be able to offset your costs by selling a couple gallons to another relatively local maker. I'd say sell some to the hydraulic oil guy, but....

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

I used a lot of brine and it is fun to learn and gives a great hamon. You need a bit thicker edge than normal, around .030" is a good spot between less cracking and deep enough hardening. The grinds need to be even and flat grinds seem to quench better/distort less. A clay slip is very important to reduce your chances of cracks or the dreaded ping. I usually grind 50 or so and heat treat them all at once to get in the swing of things, 1095 is super cheap and good to learn how to grind on too. If you go with brine you will absolutely lose some blades to cracking but it is cheap and easy to get started.

I now use Parks 50 and had to learn how to use it properly also. I had some cracks early on and now none. I also have a harder time getting a good hamon so it shows that each quench method needs some time to really nail.

Canola is a great way to go, it is almost too slow for 1095 but will still work perfect with the right edge geometry.

 

[PEU]

You can do interrupted brine quench. Preheat your brine, have a bucket of oil at the side and dip three seconds in the brine then finish in the oil. Edge thickness should be greater than to what's normal in oil only quenches.

Pablo