BRKT Golok sharpening problems!

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Oct 6, 2009
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Howdy- After reading many great things about the Bark River Golok I just HAD to get one. As soon as I unwrapped it I fell in love. I have been clearing a lot of jungly underbrush around my elderly parents' house so I had plenty of opportunity to test it out immediately. I was really impressed with its cutting ability- the short heavy blade made quick work of all kinds of nasty wild rose vines, volunteer trees etc. A couple of times I hit objects concealed by weeds- an old tomato cage, and a small rock I know of for sure. Didn't think anything of it until later in the cutting session when I wiped the plant goo off the blade and discovered a couple of good nicks on the edge. I was and am a little taken aback- I didn't expect such damage from impacts that my cheapo Cold Steel machete would take in stride. So I made a mental note to baby the Golok a bit, and set about getting the edge back in shape- or tried to.

I have to say at this point that I am not some newbie where knives are concerned. I'm a professional cook, and I have some fairly expensive Japanese knives which I keep scary-sharp with waterstones. I also have a number of bush knives, machetes, etc. which I keep in shape with my belt grinder and/or a file. So I didn't think I'd have any problems getting the Golok back to its factory sharpness.

I got the dings out easily enough, but I can't seem to get the edge back to acceptable sharpness(which to me means paper-cutting sharp for most purposes) with waterstones or the belt grinder.

I have to confess I'm a bit leery about using the belt grinder on such an expensive knife. So perhaps I'm not using as coarse of a belt as I need to. I don't even know what grit the belt is I used- it's pretty old and the markings are illegible, but it has some grit still left, enough to kick up sparks off the blade, and get somewhat of an edge- just not enough.

But I'm wondering if it's all about the angle. I can't even tell what the angle is (or was) on the factory edge. It's just this big fat blade that abruptly is razor-sharp. Or was.

So I dunno. I'm certainly not in the same league as some of you folks on this forum as far as knowledge and experience goes, but on the other hand I can't recall having had any problems like this with any other blades I've owned and kept sharp over the years.

If anyone wants to laugh at me, that's O.K., but I'd also SERIOUSLY appreciate any advice anyone can give me. I have a lot more brush to clear, and although like I said I have a bunch of other machetes, etc. I'd really like to get a LOT more use out of my Golok- it is so sweet! Thanks in advance!
 
The grind is a true full convex so there is no bevel.

From the factory it was finished to 600 and then buffed.

IMO, considering how you have asked the questions, I would sent it back to BRK for a "spa" treatment.

If you just take out the nicks you will be left with a heavier (but stronger) edge.

If you want the original cross sectional geometry it would be better to send it in.

The edge on a BRK is very fine and harder than a standard machete.

The BRK is 58-59 RC where most machetes are considerably softer therefore tougher but wont hold an edge as well.

The geometry on that blade combined with energy does most of the cutting. Not it being razor sharp. I would leave in small dings and sharpen them out over years not remove them each time they happen.

Maintaining the edge is another issue.

Hope that I answered something. Let me know if you need more help.
 
Thanks a lot for your reply! I don't know about sending it back to the factory- that seems like such a cop-out. Also it might take a long time- I'll look into it further.

After posting my original message I did some more searching and reading, and one thing I haven't tried is the sharpening method for convex edges using a mouse pad and sand paper. Seems like a lot of people do it with quite a bit of success. I think I'll give that a try before I do anything else.

I agree that the design and weight of the blade do most of the work, but that original edge was something else. An amazing tool for times when you don't have room to swing a machete. Thanks again for getting back to me- I appreciate it!
 
The mouse pad and sand paper is more of a cheap way to put a convex grind on a cheap machete.

To sharpen a quality convex grind, I suggest that you use a strop.

An old leather belt and some lapping compound should do just fine.
 
I had pretty much the same experience with minor chips after the first round of hard use. Considering how I use this knife I'm not that interested in getting it back to its out-of-the-box sharpness. I give it a few swipes with the DMT Double Sided Diafold Sharpener after each use and call it good. The nicks go away with time, and as the edge thickens up a bit the blade is becoming less nick prone...which is fine by me.

Like Sargent said, you can always send it back into BRKT for freshening up.
 
A heavy use knife which may often be dinged can take forever to sharpen using stones or the mousepad.

I sharpen all my big blades, including the BR golok I used to have, on my belt grinder. You don't need aggressive grit, usually, to put a good edge on the golok. An old, worn belt does wonders.

Andy
 
I sharpen and touch up all of my convexed machetes and goloks on a 1 x30 belt sander using the 600 grit belt in just a few quick passes. I keep the belt as loose as possible and just lean into it gently letting the belt follow the convex contour as much as possible.

The convexed edges can be quickly touched up in the field using just sandpaper, ceramic sticks or a diamond rod sharpener. Whatever is handy works and the edges are stronger and last longer for me than regular v grinds.
 
I've beaten the hell out of my golok and slightly rolled the edge. It was sharpened by starting with a few light stones until the roll was straight. Then I sharpened it on a strop with an abrasive and it was easily back to shaving hairs in a relatively short time. I'm no expert by any stretch of the word. I was actually winging it only with the knowledge of sharpening Barkies with a strop.
 
Wow! Thanks for the replies, y'all! I went on the BRKT website and apparently it only costs $12.00 for the postage and they'll re-do my golok....BUT I think I'll have a go at it again with the belt grinder. I was using my 1X30 Harbor Freight grinder so at least I have the right equipment. I reckon I won't wear the blade away very quickly using an old belt. And I think maybe you're right, JCavSD, about not needing such a fine edge on a chopping tool. But it still needs to be at least as sharp as my other choppers.....well, I thank everyone again for the words of wisdom.
 
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The mouse pad and sand paper is more of a cheap way to put a convex grind on a cheap machete.

To sharpen a quality convex grind, I suggest that you use a strop.

An old leather belt and some lapping compound should do just fine.

Actually you are quite wrong. Sandpaper comes in many grits and acts much like a stone and only differers in that it gives to the blade allowing it to convex.

I use sandpaper for all my knives including my 400 dollar BWM. I actually dinged it up real good today at work. In about 30 mins I got it back to hair popping sharp. I start with 600 grit to fix the dings (I flattened the tip when I nailed a rock hehe) then I moved to 1500 and finish with 2000. After the snadpaper I go black and green compound on the strop. Nicely pollished and super sharp:D
 
Whether or not I use the belt grinder on the Golok, I still want to try the sandpaper thing. I've seen a couple of good videos about it on YouTube. Shows some guys sharpening some pretty decent blades. And, as you say, getting them hair-popping sharp.
 
Wow! Thanks for the replies, y'all! I went on the BRKT website and apparently it only costs $12.00 for the postage and they'll re-do my golok....BUT I think I'll have a go at it again with the belt grinder. I was using my 1X30 Harbor Freight grinder so at least I have the right equipment. I reckon I won't wear the blade away very quickly using an old belt. And I think maybe you're right, JCavSD, about not needing such a fine edge on a chopping tool. But it still needs to be at least as sharp as my other choppers.....well, I thank everyone again for the words of wisdom.

Maybe someone forgot to mention...our advice goes for $2 a pop. Guess it would have been cheaper to send it in to BRKT after all. I'll email you my PayPal address. :)
 
I'm not a big convex edge guy and haven't sharpened them so I'm no expert. But are you using the platen (metal backing) on your grinder or are you using the slack area where the blade can push the belt in so it follows the curve? Did you work one side until a small burr was formed along the entire edge?
 
I'm not a big convex edge guy and haven't sharpened them so I'm no expert. But are you using the platen (metal backing) on your grinder or are you using the slack area where the blade can push the belt in so it follows the curve? Did you work one side until a small burr was formed along the entire edge?

Oh no, I didn't use the platen. I do understand convex sharpening requires the belt to be a little slack. I have to say I didn't get very far with the grinder. I was a little freaked out about putting the golok to the belt- haven't really sharpened much that way besides machetes and similar choppers. So tomorrow when I try again I'll make sure a burr develops. I just got gun-shy. I was just having visions of my blade getting worn down to a toothpick, which in reality with the belt I was using would be pretty much an all-day event, if at all.
 
The mouse pad and sand paper is more of a cheap way to put a convex grind on a cheap machete.

To sharpen a quality convex grind, I suggest that you use a strop.

An old leather belt and some lapping compound should do just fine.

Good advice. Just want to make sure you use WET/DRY sandpaper, NOT the stuff for wood. Any carparts place will have this in various grits.
 
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