Broadhead question -- Regarding POI of field tips and your broadheads

H

hung-solo

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my bow is tuned and tuned well. this i know.. however this is an issue i have had since day 1. my field tips do not hit exactly where my BH's do... i had some pros look at my bow and they say its tuned pretty well. so with that i just started practicing with my BH's so i can slightly adjust my sights to make up for the small POI difference (small as in 1 inch or less). she hits where i want her to but my issue now is that i am chewing up all my targets and have been for a few years. what i want is my POI to be exact with my field tips so i dont have to buy targets every year. the block is what i get and i eat it alive with my muzzy phantoms. they go right through it now.

suggestions? my guess is that i should look at some mechanical BH's. not a big fan of them but over the past few years they have gotten better at opening under most circumstances.
 
what the hell happened to the bowhunters around here? LOL a few days ago there were fitty on here. now just 1. :-)
 
Make that two! :-) I shoot the Grim Reaper 1-3/8" expandables. They are devastating on blacktails and hogs. I would say they shoot pretty true to field tips, but I have to admit, I call it good if they're within an inch of the field tips. They do shoot nice tight groups though. I use Gold Tip Expedition Hunter in 7595, 28-1/2" with a 70 lb. bow, if that helps. Also, I like 4" duravanes in 4* right offset. I used to shoot the 5575's, but I found that the heavier arrows shoot quieter and better for me.
 
I just got home today from a 5 day hunt, and I'm beat, so I may be missing something. Its not uncommon for BH's to have a slightly different POI than field tips.
Especially an inch or less. There aren't a lot of people than can shoot in an inch or less group all the time, so the small variation isn't very critical imho.
I shoot field points during the off season, then about 2 weeks before season, I switch to broadheads and do any small adjustments that may be needed. I don't shoot field points again, until after the season is over.

You mentioned that pros said your bow was tuned pretty well. To me, that means there may be room for improvement. There are some people that like to think they are experts at setting up bows, but not all of them have as much knowledge and ability as they think they do....
I have been using Rocky Mountain Ti-100's for about 7 years. They fly great and work very well. They are a smaller sized head, and I think they fly better than some of the larger sized heads. You may consider trying a smaller size BH in the same weight to see if that helps, or try different sized vanes and or offset.
 
by and large, my broadies hit inside of ~1/2" of where my fieldpoints hit, so it's not really an issue for me.

as for targets, i just use a bale of compressed cardboard out of the box compactor at my local supermarket. sit 'em inside an old woolsack on an old tyre and tape the target of your choice to it.

good for field points and broadies and even, once you've got a soft spot, blunts.

just be aware that there are few things that will blunten a broadhead faster than sticking it into a bale of compressed cardboard.
 
thanks guys.. i am digging the bow back out this weekend (been very busy at home lately) and see my POI again. i do remember at one point it was over an inch difference which is not acceptable. i got my local pro shop to dial that in more. i think it maybe bc i do use large fixed BH's. Muzzy Phantoms are big and they leave a massive blood trail. i love this BH and i really do not want to switch but i might have to bc i have ate up all my targets. i need to get back to using field tips and find a BH that will shoot as true as possible to them.

i was looking at the Grim Reapers bc i have heard good things. Boy are they pricey!! my gosh. along with these i am tempted to try the old 4 blade muzzys. its a smaller BH than my Phantoms
 
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Mine shoots bullet hole with bare shaft and the FP and BH don't group exactly with each other. Maybe 1/2 inch or so off at 25. I just practice with FP until it's almost hunting season, then I just adjust my sights for BH.

I'm shooting 100gr mx3 or the 105gr phantom 2 blades.
 
Using, say a rage broadie you would get out of it using those small blasers.Using a 2 blade broadie use a 4 inch offset and helical vane set up.Also use a heaver head say 135 .Both these will stabilise your arrow in flight.Penetration is not an issue you will go thru most beasts
 
Mine seem to hit within about half an inch of my field points. I am shooting rage 2 blades with helical blazers out of my Destroyer 340 and don't have any issues with POI really. But the helical did make a big difference when I switched to it.
 
If your broadheads aren't hitting with your field points then something's not right. Your bow's not tuned as well as you think, your inserts are in crooked, FPs and BHs don't weigh the same, the difference in the length of the BH compared to the FP is changing the spine of your arrows, or any number of 100s or other variables but something is wrong.

I won't shoot mechanicals, I prefer cut on contact 4 blades like Magnus Stingers or the Muzzys that you are using, and I won't rest till they are flying like darts. The main reason it is so important for me is that a wobbling arrow, even just a bit, robs penetration and when everything does come together for me to take that shot with my bow I want complete confidence that everything is as good as it can be. Chris
 
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denis barden said:
Using, say a rage broadie you would get out of it using those small blasers.Using a 2 blade broadie use a 4 inch offset and helical vane set up.Also use a heaver head say 135 .Both these will stabilise your arrow in flight.Penetration is not an issue you will go thru most beasts
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If his arrows are a little on the weak side putting a heavier head on will NOT stabilize it but aggravate the problem. And penetration is an issue and should always be considered. Chris
 
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A fixed broad head WILL NOT shoot POI with your field points...it will pull to one side a little further....Mech. broad heads (Most of them) will fly POI with your field points. This why if you use a fixed broad head you gotta "re-tune" your bow to the fixedblade or as we say "Broadhead tune" your bow. If you use mech. heads there isno nead for it. I shot Magnus & NAP Thunderheads for a while & I had to "Broadhead tune my bow to those particular heads but then I switched over to Grim Reapers & have not had to Broadhead tune my bow since, the Mech heads fly same as my field points...my brother huntedwith Muzzy & had to broadhead tune his then he switched over to Rage & they fly just like his fieldpoints...my buddy shot magnus & swithced over to the G5 T3's & they fly like field points.
 
coaldigger said:
A fixed broad head WILL NOT shoot POI with your field points...it will pull to one side a little further....Mech. broad heads (Most of them) will fly POI with your field points. This why if you use a fixed broad head you gotta "re-tune" your bow to the fixedblade or as we say "Broadhead tune" your bow. If you use mech. heads there isno nead for it. I shot Magnus & NAP Thunderheads for a while & I had to "Broadhead tune my bow to those particular heads but then I switched over to Grim Reapers & have not had to Broadhead tune my bow since, the Mech heads fly same as my field points...my brother huntedwith Muzzy & had to broadhead tune his then he switched over to Rage & they fly just like his fieldpoints...my buddy shot magnus & swithced over to the G5 T3's & they fly like field points.
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I'll take the pepsi challenge with this, my broadheads slice the fletching off my FPs, they shoot exactly to the same POI. If you have to retune your bow it wasn't tuned in the first place. Chris
 
thanks guys i think this summer i am going to tinker with it. i might just have to find a BH or Mech that will fly with my F-tips. our local archery shop closed down bc the owner passed away unexpected. the closest mom and pop shop is miles and miles away. i think ill start from scratch. ill go back to just shooting Ftips and zero those in and then try to shoot my muzzy phantoms just to see how far off they really are. again i might change to Mech's now that they are far better than what they used to be. however i am a fixed BH guy and i love my muzzy phantoms.
 
hung-solo said:
t again i might change to Mech's now that they are far better than what they used to be. however i am a fixed BH guy and i love my muzzy phantoms.
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If you want to keep shooting the Muzzy's get on archery talk NOT knife forums, look at Easton's tuning page and several more on line and learn how to tune your bow. If you are going to shoot a bow you should be able to do basic tech and tuning is a vital part of shooting and hunting with a bow. A google Search with paper tuning, bare shaft tuning , or just bow tuning will get you all the reading you want.

It is true that some heads are more tune sensitive than others but they all can be made to fly good out of a good, well set up bow. I am not even going to get into the mech/fixed debate except to say I am firmly in the fixed camp. My son and his best friend with a couple of hogs, the arrow is still in the hog because it is buried in the leg on the off side.

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August West said:
If you want to keep shooting the Muzzy's get on archery talk NOT knife forums, look at Easton's tuning page and several more on line and learn how to tune your bow. If you are going to shoot a bow you should be able to do basic tech and tuning is a vital part of shooting and hunting with a bow. A google Search with paper tuning, bare shaft tuning , or just bow tuning will get you all the reading you want.

It is true that some heads are more tune sensitive than others but they all can be made to fly good out of a good, well set up bow. I am not even going to get into the mech/fixed debate except to say I am firmly in the fixed camp. My son and his best friend with a couple of hogs, the arrow is still in the hog because it is buried in the leg on the off side.

Picture113-1.jpg
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west you are right and i agree with you 100% it is on my list of things to learn. what i did was to just practive with the BH's i use in the field. i shoot dead nasty with them. the reason why i did want to match the POI of field tips vs BH was so i can practice with FT and save my BH's. that will take some tuning for sure. i jsut have not gotten that far. i have done VERY well with how i have things set up as of right now. in hind sight i wished i had learned how to tune properly long ago. to be honest i am a member of bowhuntingtalkforums. i have learned TONS from them . just need to work on tuning. heck it will save me money in the long run. thanks for your help and you do give great advice. keep it up
 
I have a question on this issue. First, I should state that I am not an expert archer. I can group 5 arrows with field points with shafts rubbing each other at 20 yards. My broadheads (Montek G5) group a bit wider, and do not have the same poi as my field points. My question is "Why do we take it as a fact that changing the shape of a projectile (round nose to spitzer, for example) fired from a rifle can substantially effect the point of impact (even from a sub moi gun), but putting wings on the font of a projectile fired from a bow should have no effect?"

On another note, to get more life out of your archery target, carve the "shot out" part with a knife. Then buy a couple cans of "great stuff" liquid foaming insulation. Fill the cavity of the target with the foam insulation. Apply the foam in about 2" layers and allow to cure before applying the next layer. Once it is all filled, cut off the excess that has foamed out of the target. Sand smooth, then paint. This will last as long if not longer than the original target material. It stops arrows as well as the block material, and is as easy to remove arrow from as the block.
 
You can't compare a rifle to a bow, just won't work. Broadheads can and will change POI, that is why you tune your equipment so that they do not. Chris
 
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