Buck 110/112 assembly & disassembly

WinDancer

WinDancer

Joined
May 15, 1999
Messages
720
I would like to do a little simple work on some of my 110s and 112s. I assume that I can just grind off the rivets to remove and replace the scales. Can I also drill out the front blade pivot pin and the rear pin, swing the liners in different directions, and remove the blade? Is replacing the fron and rear pins going to be a problem? Is a pin press required to replace the pins? I am looking for a little [or a LOT] of guidance, before I end up sending the dreaded 'basket knife'back to Buck [I kow this upsets Jeff : > } Any pointers would be much appreciated!!!

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Regards, Dave

WinDancer@OlyWa.net

www.olywa.net/windancer/webknives.htm
 
Win Dancer,
I'll get with the shop and see exactly how they would do it. The scales are easy enough, but the bolsters use a brass pin that is pressed together, then the heads are sanded off.

Jeff
 
WinDancer,

Remove Blade pin with nail punch (no need to remove any others)
rework1.jpg

Put bushing back in blade hole
rework2.jpg

Put blade back in case
rework3.jpg

Put new pivot pin in
rework4.jpg

Peen Both sides with hammer. (note provide a small relief on your block to keep pin centered during peening...(note the washer taped to the block)
rework5.jpg

Sand off rivet head, sand and buff to desired finish...
rework6.jpg


I hope this helps...

Jeff


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Jeff "Without data it's just another opinion" Hubbard
Quality Supervisor

JeffH@buckknives.com
www.buckknives.com
Watch for Pete's Custom Knife Shoppe on www.buckknives.com

 
You big-company guys are all alike... never have a single minute to help a customer! And such crummy instructions!!!

Jeff, Thank You! You and Joe Houser make a pretty good team for customer support. I appreciate your time and your effort [and those ain't bad pichers, either].

Since I also want to filework the rocker, do I just do the rear pins the same way, or is the magic spring going to head for the Pacific Ocean the minute I release the back pins?

And oh, yes, can I buy maybe 25 or 30 of the replacment pins?

Thanks again, Joe

------------------
Regards, Dave

WinDancer@OlyWa.net

www.olywa.net/windancer/webknives.htm

[This message has been edited by WinDancer (edited 24 June 1999).]
 
WinDancer,
I hadn't thought about it, but to remove the wood, you have to remove the rocker pin anyway. The trick to putting it back is the order in which you do it. After you get the parts the way you want them, and the sides are riveted or glued back on. (you really don't need to remove the butt rivets unless you need to to re-attach the scales)
Follow these steps
Put the spring into the spring holder slot (look into the butt from the rocker slot to see this)
Put the rocker in and slide the pin through. There will be some tension on the rocker from the spring.
Then assemble the blade into it as shwon above. Peen all the rivets after you get it all toghether.
Send me your address to my Co e-mail, and I set you up with some pins and rivets...
If you take the butt apart, there is a slightly better way to do this so let me know, and I'll go through that.
Jeff

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Jeff "Without data it's just another opinion" Hubbard
Quality Supervisor

JeffH@buckknives.com
www.buckknives.com
Watch for Pete's Custom Knife Shoppe on www.buckknives.com

 
Hi Jeff
I just sent the email with my address and stuff. I really do appreciate the way I have been treated bu you and Joe and Buck Knives.
For the first few, I will probably only do the scales. But I know that I am going to want to take some of the 110/112s completely down to filework the rocker and the liners all the way around, so the order of disassebly and reassembly completely down and then back up would be a big help. And it appears that everyone is enjoying this as much as I am :< }
Thanks again, Jeff.



------------------
Regards, Dave

WinDancer@OlyWa.net

www.olywa.net/windancer/webknives.htm
 
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