Buck 110 as a bushcraft knife

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Mar 17, 2011
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I know that full tangs are stronger and more dependable for this task but has anyone used a 110 for bushcrafting and general all around woods use.Thanks for any input.
 
Well I am sure that before it was called "bushcrafting" the Buck 110 was used in that fashion by thousands and thousands of people. However, as I understand the technical use of the term bushcrafting, one stipulation is "...only a knife...". That means no axe. I would not see the 110 in a batoning role. In addition, I think there would be issues with tip strength.

Again, let me state that thousands of guys have been heading into to woods (me included) or the mountains or the desert and into combat with the 110 and found it immensely serviceable.
 
It's a great knife and will be fine as long as you respect its limits. The tip is relatively sensitive and back locks get destroyed by battening. However, this skill is rarely if ever useful in most areas.
 
The Buck 110 has been used in every scenario imaginable, so of course it can be used in the woods. It's just a matter of using the right tool for the right job. Obviously, you can't expect to chop down a tree with a folding knife and it's not what you'd want to use to baton through a chunk of wood either, but a Buck 110 or any folding knife can still be very useful for camp and hunting chores. Just watch the tip on those thin blades.
 
I agree with the guys above that the Buck 110 and a lot more traditional/classic knives were used for tasks that we would call bushcraft nowadays. I am currently waiting for my first Buck 110 to arrive and probably with take it with me on a camping trip.
 
Most times when I'm in the woods its the 110 on my hip. If not that then a SAK with a saw. If you know what your doing, most times it will be all you need. (I have run into some times when more is better, that's why I say most times)
 
Well I am sure that before it was called "bushcrafting" the Buck 110 was used in that fashion by thousands and thousands of people.

^This.

I'm sure it would be perfectly serviceable so long as you don't feel the dire need to go chop down some trees or baton through logs or something ridiculous like that.
 
Well I am sure that before it was called "bushcrafting" the Buck 110 was used in that fashion by thousands and thousands of people. However, as I understand the technical use of the term bushcrafting, one stipulation is "...only a knife...". That means no axe. I would not see the 110 in a batoning role. In addition, I think there would be issues with tip strength.

Again, let me state that thousands of guys have been heading into to woods (me included) or the mountains or the desert and into combat with the 110 and found it immensely serviceable.


What he said.

That particular knife has been used- at least here in The States - probably more than any other knife for any chore imaginable , including "bushcraft". Maybe the Sharpfinger is a good contender for the title too.


Tostig
 
I will second all of the above. The Buck 110 has a long, long record of satisfactory service in every kind of environment you can imagine.

Many of my friends won't carry anything else. They use it as a camp knife (for all camp chores), a hunting knife, even a fishing knife.

Moreover, in my line of work as a construction guy, this knife still reigns as the heavyduty/beater/all around/most reliable hard work knife. It has been that way for about 40 years now.

While you can't chop down a tree with it, baton a log (will split smaller stuff easily) apart with it, hide matches in the handle or easily use it as a spear, I would use it with complete confidence for all knife chores. It is surprising just how strong this knife is built.

Robert
 
Well I am sure that before it was called "bushcrafting" the Buck 110 was used in that fashion by thousands and thousands of people. However, as I understand the technical use of the term bushcrafting, one stipulation is "...only a knife...". That means no axe. I would not see the 110 in a batoning role. In addition, I think there would be issues with tip strength.

Again, let me state that thousands of guys have been heading into to woods (me included) or the mountains or the desert and into combat with the 110 and found it immensely serviceable.


I would disagree with your definition. Many choose to carry only a knife due to weight and carry issues, but a true "Bushcrafter" is knowledgeable with the 'trinity" of woods tools: knives, saw and axe. I suggest that you read Bushcraft - by Mors Kochanski. Considered one of the bibles of outdoors skills and survival, particularly in North America. His book breaks down the importance and use of all three.

Regarding a Buck 110 for bushcrafting, why not? "Bushcrafting" is a skillset, not a physical tool. Sure, there are other knife designs that are optimized to make certain tasks easier, but the wood or game that you use it on won't know any difference.
 
I would disagree with your definition. Many choose to carry only a knife due to weight and carry issues, but a true "Bushcrafter" is knowledgeable with the 'trinity" of woods tools: knives, saw and axe. I suggest that you read Bushcraft - by Mors Kochanski. Considered one of the bibles of outdoors skills and survival, particularly in North America. His book breaks down the importance and use of all three.

Regarding a Buck 110 for bushcrafting, why not? "Bushcrafting" is a skillset, not a physical tool. Sure, there are other knife designs that are optimized to make certain tasks easier, but the wood or game that you use it on won't know any difference.

Well with the "...only a knife..." stipulation removed/dubunked, it sounds like the 110 would fit the bill entirely. I for one would never delve very deep into the woods without an axe.
 
Before my 'enlightenment', I used an old WWII veteran of the So. Pacific - my Dad's old KaBar - for camping/hunting/etc. I often carried my 110, too - as I would years later. They were equally adept at making camp furniture, cleaning fish, etc. Then I noticed how much simpler toting the 110 was - and the KaBar started staying home. Van camping, I splurged and carried my Plumb camp hatchet - but that 110 was a workhorse... then I became 'enlightened'. I went through other Buck & Marbles FB's - then Bark Rivers, etc. Most of a hundred knives later, I have to admit... the 110 was a hard act to beat - especially when you remember that it is a knife - made to cut, not to 'beat' through a log or large stick!

Interestingly, several years ago, Blade Magazine rated the most favored blades of the Vietnam era - and the venerable KaBar and the new guy 110 were both in the top five. Still a classic - as it approaches half a century of production. I have a collection of 110's - from basics to some nice Buck Custom Shop products - but that first one was lost years ago. Oddly, eel slime seemed to leave it constantly nasty, if memory serves me... perhaps losing it wasn't a total accident!

Stainz
 
I started using my newly purchased Buck 110 for bushcrafting in 1970. I couldn't put a name on what I was doing with it until I joined this forum and discovered there was such a thing called bush craft:D I think the 110 would be just fine filling that role.
 
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Didn't the 110's come with two handle styles? One with finger groves & one smooth? Or am I thinking of some other companies 110 type? Schrade or Uncle Henry model?
 
Didn't the 110's come with two handle styles? One with finger groves & one smooth? Or am I thinking of some other companies 110 type? Schrade or Uncle Henry model?

You're right on the money. They still make both styles (the smooth and fingergrooved handles, respectively).
 
110 is awesome! I used mine for everything including battoning. I find it heavy today but it still does the trick!
 
I would be willing to use it for Bushcraft if it came with a scandi grind and O1 steel, just kidding, it's all about what you want to use it for in the Bush. For the same weight I personally would carry a small full tang fixed blade, but I love my 110s, but they are just a bit too heavy for their utility, which is adequate, but I baton and I like a more versatile grip option on my bush knives. But I use it in the yard all the time.
 
I have two 110s a112 and the light weight version.Ilike the s30v best because of edge holding.For extended trips to the bush,this knife along with a sak equiped with a saw would handle anything a knife should be expected to do Chuck
 
Didn't the 110's come with two handle styles? One with finger groves & one smooth? Or am I thinking of some other companies 110 type? Schrade or Uncle Henry model?

I have one of each, the smooth gets my vote but to each his own.
 
I know that full tangs are stronger and more dependable for this task but has anyone used a 110 for bushcrafting and general all around woods use.Thanks for any input.

Every time I am out in the woods, a Buck 110 is on my belt - every time. I have never felt 'under knifed'.
 
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