Buck 110 convex edge?

[robk]

I am thinking over putting a convex edge on my buck 110. Does anyone have experience with what angle would fit this blade best. Thanks

 

[kwackster]

I went for ~25 degrees inclusive on mine:

Photos - Vintage Buck 110 no-dot

Recently acquired this venerable oldie (1972-1974) which had a rounded point, no edge, and a handle filled with crud. Cleaned everything with toothpicks, an old toothbrush with diluted detergent, and lastly an ultrasonic cleaner, polished the brass, then reground the blade by hand on wet & dry...

www.bladeforums.com

 

[herisson]

A convex edge fits any blade, IMO. We are talking strictly edge here : the difference between a V edge and a convex edge is almost microscopic. I sharpen all my knives, whatever type of grind (saber, V, hollow, chisel) on a Ken Onion Worksharp, so always convex. It works beautifully and it seems to me the edge stays sharp longer. If you plan to use this sort of belt sharpener, be careful not to hit the shoulder of the hollow grind. In my experience, 20 ° per side works very well, no need to go steeper. At 20 ° the shoulder of the Buck 110's blade should be safe, just apply minimal pressure.

 

[Alberta Ed]

I try to stay with the maker's edge profile in most cases unless the angle is way too obtuse (i.e., K-Bar Mark 1, CS SRK). Buck's Edge 2X profile works pretty well IMHO. I'm not sure what would be gained.

 

[shane45-1911]

If you sharpen freehand and finish with a strop, you will generally have a naturally occurring convex edge.

 

[Steely_Gunz]

If you sharpen freehand and finish with a strop, you will generally have a naturally occurring convex edge.

I was told this many years ago by a wise forum member. Anyone who freehands will end up with a convex of sorts.

Being that I have been dabbling with Khukuris for 20+ years, convex is my go to for pretty much anything that isn't scandi.

When I sharpen my dad's 110, it's usually in pretty sorry shape. I will generally give it a pretty meaty hybrid convex edge like I would a khuk:

Knock out the dings with a medium/rough stone.
Strop on a sanding sponge to get all marks off the blade and start to set the edge.

Move to a fine diamond at a high angle in order to set the secondary edge.

Freehand circular hone with a soft stone up and down the edge going by feel and testing it for evenness.

Strop on a piece of leather loaded with compound.

I end up with a thick edge that will pop hair but hold up to cutting plastic, opening grease tubes, and digging around in the mud with the tip. I find the convex edge works great on a 110. I'm sure it's not best for a hunting/skinning knife, but it really shines when it's going to be used for honest hard work on a job site like my old man does.

 

[herisson]

25 ° inclusive is, as I understand it, 12.5 ° per side (dps) ? That's very steep. This is razor territory. It doesn't look adequate for a 110, given it's an EDC and the 420 HC steel is relatively soft. Besides, when sharpening at such a steep angle the chances are high you will hit the shoulder of the blade. I gave that up even for exclusive slicers for kitchen use only where I tried 10 dps. I found out that 20 dps slices just as well and stays sharp longer.