Buck 110 Dissassembly

W

Waltman

Joined
Jul 2, 2013
Messages
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I am thinking about buying a damascus blade for a 110 and was wondering how to dissemble it without damaging the scales. Also I was just thinking about replacing the scales. So how would one go about removing the pins on the scales? I have read the other threads on this and some I didn't get. So please explain in laymans terms.
 
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Just use a drill press for the scale rivets and rocker pin, and use a 1/8in. bit for the front brass pin for the blade.
 
Hmmm, I HAVE done it before with a cordless drill, which is not preferred, but it turned out perfect, even though I was 13 with little to no experience. So it should work fine, but if I were you, I would go over to a friend's house who has a drill press. It's a lot less risky that way. :)
 
I was hoping that someone with more experience than myself would have piped up by now as I personly have only done a blade swap 3 times. First of all you do not have to drill out the blade pivot pin .
Take a block of softwood ( piece of 2x4 works fine) Drill a hole in it , diameter larger than the pivot pin. don't drill all the way through the block , just deep enough for the pin to clear the thickness of the blade or a bit more.
Put the knife down on the block use a 1\8 pin punch and a hammer to drive it out . Very important to tape up the blade before doing anything with the knife in the open position.
The blade bushing will also come out with the proper sized pin punch.
I would recommend that you try this first with a something less expensive than a Damascus blade just to get the hang of it.
 
I wouldn't drill out the Blade pivot pin as you risk reaming it out. you want your 1/8 brass stock to fit as plum as possible.

All the tools you need are

Hammer
1/8 punch
Oil or lubricant

IMG_1019_zps0e7a71da.jpg


Find the outline of the pivot pin on the bolster. Line up your punch as best you can and do light taps. Use lots of lube. Don't beat on it cause if your not lined up correctly you will risk marking up the bolster badly. Tap lightly and the pin will work its way out. When its all the way through one side I take a finishing nail to tap it through. You don't want your punch to drift through both holes because you run the risk of it getting stuck. I always rest the knife on a piece of lumber with a hole drilled out so the pin has somewhere to fall. Hope this helps
 
red canoes method is the one I use, however I use a 5/32 pin punch a 32 smaller than 1/8 but it gets the job done. the scale pins I file off then drive them out. I use stainless for the lock bar and brass just as buck. I made a punch to set the rivets back with domed heads. you can either anneal an old punch and drill the end or make one from scratch and harden it.i make my own blades from 1084 and 1095 for the 110's
 
kn4wd said:
red canoes method is the one I use, however I use a 5/32 pin punch a 32 smaller than 1/8 but it gets the job done. the scale pins I file off then drive them out. I use stainless for the lock bar and brass just as buck. I made a punch to set the rivets back with domed heads. you can either anneal an old punch and drill the end or make one from scratch and harden it.i make my own blades from 1084 and 1095 for the 110's
Click to expand...

Right, I forgot to mention I use a tapered punch seen above to get it started.

Redcanoe's method is great.
 
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