Buck 110 Epiphany

rhino

rhino

Joined
Dec 30, 2000
Messages
3,805
Because of a really good price (and rebate), I acquired my first new Buck 110 (with Idaho markings) in many years. I'd not been inspired to get one because I've fallen prey to the allure of more modern folders, plus the 420HC steel did not appeal to me.

Now that I've used it a bit, I am reminded of a few things.

1. There really isn't a large folder that feels better in the hand during use, with the possible exception of the Buck 112. I love Spydercos and Cold Steel Voyagers, and a variety of others, but nothing has the feel of a Buck folding hunter.

2. The blade geometry is superior to 99.99% of the knives on the market. The primary edge bevel on mine was not done well, but it only took about 15 minutes to get it into decent shape. This is unusal for Bucks 110s and 112s in my experience, so I hope others will be better. In any case, the thin edge is just perfect for slicing.

3. While I'm still no fan of 420HC, Buck's heat treatment is first rate and seems to at least minimize the weaknesses displayed by other applications of 420-series in less knives. It is certainly hard enough to take a very sharp edge, although edge retention is not something I've tested as I retouch it after just about every significant use.

4. The combination of 420HC and Buck's heat treatment beat the 440C and its poor heat treatment in my Buck Hilo handily. It's no news to most of us, but proper heat treatment is far more important (within reason) than which steel is used.

I'm very happy with this knife, and while it's not as handy as a lightweight, one-handed folder that clips in my pocket, it certainly has its own advantages. For actual use (as opposed to carry), I think it would be tough to beat the ergonomics of the 110/112.

I think I may have to go ahead and splurge for one of those 110s from Cabela's with better steel!
 
Sword and Shield said:
I would much rather have mediocre steel with a perfect heat treat than superior steel with a garbage HT. :)
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Amen! Too bad we can't always have the better steel with the perfect heat treat at the price point we like! :D
 
Recently retired my Spyderco and went "old school" 110 again----just something nice about a more sustantial knife---also have a Buck Rush clipped in my pocket if I need speed--or not to scare the "sheeple" by not bringing out my big 110. Have a PT retail cashiers job(to pay child support) and you'd be surprised by how many people want tags cut off or something opened---the Rush gets those jobs.

Also--Lee carpenter pants are excellent for carrying a 110 in the pocket that goes down the leg---no sheath.
 
Excellent review of the Folding Hunter!
The 420hc gets a rockwell of about 58. I am no machinist but I don't think you will have any luck drilling a hole for a thumbstud. I have seen some holes drilled in the back bolster for a lanyard though. Once done, the knife is rendered useless and without warranty. :(
They do make clamp on thumb studs you might consider.
 
lone ranger said:
i would like to know has anyone drilled the blade of there 110 and added thumbstud
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I have Buck 110 and 112. I have a "One-Arm Bandit" thumbstud which I can attach/remove from either as needed. It's easy to install and allows me to move the thumbstud around to suit my preferences. It's made by a company called Y.B. Technology, located in Montreal, Quebec, Canada.
I bought mine at Smokey Mountain Knife Works in Pigeon Forge, TN. They have a website. It cost $5.00. There are two sizes: one fits blades up to 1/8 inch (the Buck) and the other fits blades up to 3/16 inch.
It has a certain "redneck/biker" look to it when installed, but it probably fits the Buck character better than some other knives. If you like the Buck 110/112 and prefer a thumbstud, it's a good option.
 
ld57 said:
It has a certain "redneck/biker" look to it when installed...
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Sir, I resemble that remark!!! :grumpy: :eek: :D ;) :p

If you like the Buck 110/112 and prefer a thumbstud, it's a good option.
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Personally, I have enough trouble opening a 110 with two hands; I can only imagine what kind of mayhem would be perpetrated on my thumb if I tried to push against that spring with a little itty bitty thumbscrew... :rolleyes:
 
rhino said:
Amen! Too bad we can't always have the better steel with the perfect heat treat at the price point we like! :D
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For $59.00, a 110 with S30V is HARD to beat! I don't think there is a better bargain in the knife world!
 
tidefan said:
For $59.00, a 110 with S30V is HARD to beat! I don't think there is a better bargain in the knife world!
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Great Googley Moogley, man!

You're putting too much pressure on me! PRESSURE TO BUY MORE KNIVES!

I can't stand it ... must ... order Buck 110 with S30V ... from ... Cabela's ... can't seem to ... reach the ... Kryptonite ... must reach the ...

EDITED TO ADD:

Hey! I can't find it on the Cabela's web site. Does anyone have their catalog handy for the part number??
 
chickentrax said:
Sir, I resemble that remark!!! :grumpy: :eek: :D ;) :p



Personally, I have enough trouble opening a 110 with two hands; I can only imagine what kind of mayhem would be perpetrated on my thumb if I tried to push against that spring with a little itty bitty thumbscrew... :rolleyes:
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My 112 opens pretty easily, so the thumb stud on it is low-risk.
My 110 is a stiffer propostion, but it's gotten smoother over time as I've cycled the lock. If I get the stud placed right, I can open it, but it does take more effort. It helps if I open it with a firm, committed push.

If you really like a high-risk but flashy opening, hold the closed 110 by the blade, with the tip pointed back towards the wrist, by the thumb and forefinger. Then sling the knife out and up, pinching the blade and letting the weight of the handle fly up, rotating the handle into the open position, so that you end up with the knife in a vertical position, pointing downwards, edge facing forwards, holding it between your thumb and forefinger, like you are getting ready to throw it. Then carefully release the knife, letting it drop and catch it in your hand in a reverse grip (you can see this done in the movie "Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas" towards the end).
Don't try with greasy fingers...
 
rhino said:
Hey! I can't find it on the Cabela's web site. Does anyone have their catalog handy for the part number??
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Cabela's Alaskan Guide Series knives - S30V blade steel with Titanium Aluminum Nitride coating, heat and cryogenic tempering, rosewood scales...

110 Folder - LF-51-6488 $59.99

Pg 432 of the Christmas 2005 catalog
 
Alaskan Guide 110 looks pretty good, but I'm wondering if the Custom Shop would rehandle one in stag................that would make it pretty incredible!
 
Thanks for the pointers, guys!

Looks like they changed the stock number to QS - 516488. I didn't check to see just the numeric part would get me there, but the link to the Alaskan Guide Series was how I found it. Curiously, it's not listed under the category link for folding knives.

Here is a direct link to the paydirt: Alaskan Guide Buck 110 w/ S30V blade
 
Man it does not get any better then having you guys post links on where to buy our stuff...

Thanks.

cj
 
I really do like the Alaskan Guide series knife but in all honesty what has been keeping me away from the purchase is the Titanium Aluminum Nitride coating. I realize that it's there to bolster the resistance to corrosion but I really do prefer the look of steel. As I would assume that Buck manufactures the knives to completion and then ships to Cabella's...would it be possible to purchase one without the coating? Lord knows that the other 110's scattered throughout the house are getting lonely and need another one around to make "them" feel better...:p
 
Okay ... news! News, I tell you!

My spiffy new Cabela's Alaskan Guide Buck 110 arrived yesterday and so far I really, really like it.

First of all, it retains the elegance of the Buck 110 design. All the lines are the same and as usual, it just feels so good in your hand! The coating on the blade is very subtle in appearance. It would be easy to give the blade a cursory glance and not notice anything different beyond the Cabela's logo.

The edge grind was even, but needed a little bit of reprofiling to fit my preferences. It was also too polished (at least it felt so) on the very edge to slice very well. This was my first experience with CPM S30V, and I am just now understanding that it takes quite a bit of work (as compared to less exotic stainless) to remove significant amounts of metal. I spent about half an hour with it (using various diamond-impregnated tools) and made a good start on it, but it's going to have to be something I continue each time I sharpen it for a while. Fortunately it was already close to being what I like, so now it's a bit closer and with micro-bevel, it's taken a nicely sharp edge.

The leather sheath is nice, but I'm going to carry in the heavy nylon (cordura-ish) sheath that came with my regular 110. I've got it horizontally on my belt, just to the right of my belt buckle where I can access it easily with either hand. I need to get a new "one-armed bandit," but that will probably wait until I order some Christmas presents from SMKW.

The one thing so far that is a minor negative is that the "action" is a bit gritty. I added come Breakfree CLP and it helped, but I think I'll need to flush it with a lot more CLP and let it drip out to remove whatever is in there. I'd like for it to be "clean" for the price I paid, but it's a small thing assuming I can fix it easily with some CLP.

I've not had it long enough to test it in terms of edge holding, but we'll get to that! Of course, I'm not sure I can manage much of that because I am a compulsive sharpener ... if I use it, I have to at least touch it up a little (I'm the opposite with guns ... I almost never clean them! )

Now I'm still "cuttin' it old school," but with steel that will perform better!
 
The joy continues! Last night when I found my Western lightweight 110 copy, it had a one-armed bandit on it. Tonight I found my allen wrenches and transferred it to my Cabela's Buck 110 in CPM S30V. I also touched-up the edge a bit because... just because.

So now I have the old school feeling of a Buck 110, the modern S30V steel, and it's now a one-handed opener. :thumbup:

Woo-hoo! :D
 
Dadgummit, I'm just going to have to break down and buy one of these. So far, I've resisted temptation, but my resolve ain't gonna last much longer.

If I get an Alaskan Guide, I would then own 110s in S30V, 440C, 425M, 440HC, ATS-34, and BG-42. Were they ever made in any other steels?
 
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