Buck 110: How Much Out-of-the-Box Blade Play Is Acceptable?

CCK

Joined
Feb 25, 2015
Messages
29
Hi Folks,
sorry if I am going over old ground, but a search did not turn this one up:
How much, if any, blade play is acceptable or considered normal or within specs and tolerances for a new Buck folder, specifically a 110?
I just bought one, and it's very nice, nice fit and finish, blade is centered when closed, the lock-up seems very solid. I've been using it for a few days and have recently noticed a little side-to-side play in the blade when open. I don't detect any up-and-down play, nor when twisting the blade, but there is some give when pushing on the side of the blade. I would not say it is very bad, but it's there. Just wondering if this is normal for these knives, if it just comes with the territory with this type of knife. It sure is a nice knife!

Thank you
 
"Acceptable" is up to you. I've got some new and old that have a little side to side movement. Some had it out of the box, a few developed it over the years as they were used. I'm not aware of any knife that's designed to have blade play so I would say it's not desirable nor is it intended but it does happen. If it bothers you send it to Buck. If you can live with it then don't. As I said it's really up to you. In my case I figure I'll just use and enjoy mine and if it gets worse to the point that it really causes a problem then I'll send it in.
 
I just recently bought a new 110 50th Anniversary and it is absolutely perfect. No side to side play, or up and down play. Razor sharp too!
 
If you're not satisfied you might try letting the retailer know. My first 110 had a badly off center blade. Turn around time to Buck was several weeks so I sent it back to the retailer and they hand picked a perfect one for me. I had to pay shipping either way which sucks, but sometimes a bad one sneaks out of the factory. The risk of buying online I guess. These days I'd just go down to the neighborhood big box mart and hand pick one.
 
I'm more worried about vertical play.

Lateral play is something that normally happens with any traditional knife that uses a peened pivot pin. Doing any sort of hard cutting that puts lateral pressure on the blade can cause it. Very common with traditional slip joints and lock backs.

A common way to tighten it up is to squeeze the bolster in a padded vice. But be cautious. Too tight and the blade will stick. It's something you might play around with a cheap beater slip joint first.

If you have any doubt or if you prone to breaking things (ahem, that would be me) sending it to Buck is always a safe bet.
 
some of my 110's have blade play when closed, however when open they are all rock solid. Pinned production lockback knives do tend to have a little bit of blade play. Every GEC lockback I've handled does, but none of my bucks.

If it irks you, send it in.
 
Thanks for the input, guys. It doesn't irk me too much yet, but if it gets worse I will send it to Buck. I actually picked this one out of the three that were at the store, this one being the only one of the three with a centered blade when closed. Didn't notice the play at the store, but after a few days I noticed it. I can actually see a very small gap line between the bolster and the blade tang open and close when the blade is pushed. I can't see it being much of a functional problem at this point, but I guess it's not perfect, but overall this is a hell of a knife for $35. The blade is very nice. I guess I'll just have to get another one for backup if I ever do send this one is. :)
 
I have a 50th 110 with a small amount of side play when closed, "small" meaning close to 1 mm. When open and locked, it's as solid as could be, both sidways and up and down. Someday if I feel motivated, or if it gets worse, I'll probably put the squeeze on it — gently, of course.

In a bad case, back to Buck it would go. But as the man said, "acceptable" is always by your own definition. Me, I'd take a measurement of the play that's there now, then use the knife as you would normally for a month and then remeasure. That would be the decision point.
 
Another option that I've used if you don't have a vice available is to stick the pivot end in the middle of a phone book and give it a few taps with a hammer. The phone book will cushion the blow and not damage the brass. Start light and increase the pressure until it tightens up
 
I own many Buck 110s and had one with some horizontal blade play.I sent it to Buck and they made it bank vault solid.:):thumbup:
 
I went to two big box stores to buy a 110 and came away very disappointed. I tried a total of three 110s and all three had significant side to side blade play. I could tolerate a little play, but not as much as they had. I do own three GEC traditional knives and two have a little blade play, but nothing like the Bucks. I'm not looking for zero play, but on a heavier duty, bigger knife like the 110 excessive play doesn't seem right; it doesn't seem to fit the character of the knife. Are there any online dealers that will hand pick one for me that only has a little play?
 
I went to two big box stores to buy a 110 and came away very disappointed. I tried a total of three 110s and all three had significant side to side blade play. I could tolerate a little play, but not as much as they had. I do own three GEC traditional knives and two have a little blade play, but nothing like the Bucks. I'm not looking for zero play, but on a heavier duty, bigger knife like the 110 excessive play doesn't seem right; it doesn't seem to fit the character of the knife. Are there any online dealers that will hand pick one for me that only has a little play?

You don't say if that's when open or closed. I'm more tolerant of play when closed, so long as it's 1 mm or less and the blade is tight when open and locked. But you set the standard for yourself.

Getting a hand-selected 110 will probably cost more, perhaps a lot more, than just tightening it yourself as noted here. Again, your call.
 
I have some over 50 years old with zero play, and others that are new with a tiny bit of slack.
George God bless
 
I checked the play with the knife open.

Several of my lockbacks (Buck and old Schrade) have some lateral play when closed. I don't consider that to be "blade play". I only worry about it when there's play when open. IMO, what you're seeing is normal for lockbacks.
 
Hi Folks,
sorry if I am going over old ground, but a search did not turn this one up:
How much, if any, blade play is acceptable or considered normal or within specs and tolerances for a new Buck folder, specifically a 110?
I just bought one, and it's very nice, nice fit and finish, blade is centered when closed, the lock-up seems very solid. I've been using it for a few days and have recently noticed a little side-to-side play in the blade when open. I don't detect any up-and-down play, nor when twisting the blade, but there is some give when pushing on the side of the blade. I would not say it is very bad, but it's there. Just wondering if this is normal for these knives, if it just comes with the territory with this type of knife. It sure is a nice knife!

Thank you


What you talkin bout blade play willis? My 110 doesn't have any blade play.
 
My 110 has a bit of play. I don't sweat it. It's my EDC and gets some hard use. I have never had a lock back that didn't get a little side to side play.
 
Back
Top