Buck 110 Scratched Bolster

J

johnhunn

Joined
Feb 10, 2008
Messages
2
I placed my Buck 110 into a "generic" leather-sheath, with a riveted belt-loop. The rivet, unfortunately, scratched the top bolster on an otherwise beautiful, knife. What is the best way to remove/polish these scratches without doing further damage? I have now learned to use the Buck sheath, as this strap is sewn, not riveted and the snap is protected as well. Thanks in advance for your help.
 
Hey, if they are light scratches, something like Mother's Mag wheel polish will do the trick. Thats what I use on blades and bolsters, and its good stuff. Won't harm the knife. There are several other polishes and cleaners that other folks use as well. But I use Mother's on everything.


:thumbup:
 
I use a green or pink rouge on a buffing wheel....works eveytime. You can get a small buffing wheel that'll fit on a Dremmel and they sell a buffing pack for the Dremmel as well. Check out item 300413098894 on ebay for a description. They're kinda handy for those little issue that arise.
 
Silicon carbide wet/dry sandpaper works well. Start with a grit like 220 if you need to remove some material then work up to 600 and finish with a polish such as mentioned, or Semichrome, Flitz, etc.

Brass is VERY soft and easy to scratch.

Good luck,
Peter
 
I believe you guys but i dont see how sandpaper can take a scratch off Brass. Seems to me it would just create scratches.
 
It would seem so, but I guess the scratches get so fine you can't see them anymore as you go to finer and finer sandpaper.

Then, you go to what Wolfjohn recommended for a final finish.

I find that sending them to Buck for a spitshine is the way to go.......then I can spend my time buying more.

:)
 
Is there a functional advantage of Brass over Nickel Silv or is it strictly economics? If it is economic, what is the difference in $$ per knife-approximate of course.
 
Brass is a little harder than nickle silver and there is a lubricity benefit . A stainless steel blade should not be combined with a stainless liner where one pivots against the other as they tend to stick . So, either different metals are combined or washers of different metals on folders . DM
 
John, Welcome to Buck forum and bringing your first post . If the scratches aren't very deep a good hand polish and lots of rubbing can remove them . If you can feel it with your finger nail its atleast .001" deep and will require the method Wolfjohn suggests or sending it to someone . I hope you hang out with us so we may answer any other questions . DM
 
Another option is to send it in to Buck hq for sharpening and include a note asking them nicely if they'd buff out the scratch. I'd bet dollars to donuts they'd do it and your knife comes home looking showroom ready.
 
mnblade, Your exactly right ! All for merely the price of sharpening, $6.95 and return shipping is not charged . Pretty good deal from Buck . DM
 
David Martin said:
Brass is a little harder than nickle silver and there is a lubricity benefit . A stainless steel blade should not be combined with a stainless liner where one pivots against the other as they tend to stick . So, either different metals are combined or washers of different metals on folders . DM
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I always thought nickle silver was a little harder and had more lubricity that is why they plate some handgun cartridges with it.
 
Somebody stated about the brass in another post . Or I read it in a knife magazine . DM
 
I have quite a few NS 110's and in my experience, the brass scratches easier. At least the scratches show more on the brass, so maybe thats it.
 
Robert Ptacel said:
I always thought nickle silver was a little harder and had more lubricity that is why they plate some handgun cartridges with it.
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Yeah, I'd have to agree that nickel is somewhat harder but, I've been wrong before~ (ask my wife :D)....it sure is noticebly harder when it comes to drilling it and sanding it on my customs as compared to the brass. I personally like the clean look of brass on blades but the slightest scratch and that soon to happen patina coloring usually steers me to nickel silver for pin and bolsters.
As far as Buck and they're reconditioning, well, simply said...it's purely outstanding...I live 2 hours from Post Falls and sometimes bugger up one just for the excuse to go up there and snoop....and....for some reason...I ALWAYS come home with a new knife too...go figure!!! And.....I ALWAYS get my "fixer" back in A-1 shape soon after!! I'm sure if they had a display up there of all the blades they COULDN'T REPAIR, it would be smaller than a paper plate....these folks are phenomenal on their ability/service and they're just darn nice people too.:thumbup::thumbup:
 
From the perspective of cutting into it with a graver, nickle/silver is predictably softer than the brass i've encountered on Buck bolsters. Older knives that have cast bolsters in brass also, tend to have some porosity to them.

The brass is a little harder (not drastically though) but as it is being cut, there are harder and softer areas. The nickle/silver was consistently SOFT. I haven't cut a large quantity of them, but that is my experience with the ones I have.

Peter

Both scratch VERY easy from having a high polish.
 
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