Buck 110 traction

G0blin

G0blin

Joined
Oct 21, 2017
Messages
11
I hope I'm posting in the correct section for this.

I bought a custom 100 some time last year, Cherrywood and nickle bolsters. It's a lovely knife but one thing keeps it on my desk and out of my pocket, and that's the lack of traction the wood seems to have. I'm not claiming it didn't come as intended, but I definitely would've chosen a different material if I had know just how smooth the wood is. down here in Florida, there's no shortage of damp palms to go around if you're outside, and a slippery knives is as dangerous as a hair trigger. Is there anything I can do to remedy that besides sanding? I've already tried that on a 120 since that isn't something I can carry so I'm not scared of trying it out. It didn't seem to have any noticeable effect though.

If my choices are "buy a new knife", could somebody advise me which material is the grippiest, and/or if the 110lt is grippy also.

Thanks guys.
 
There is the new Buck 110 pro with g10 handles and a s30v blade. The 110 won't get grippier than that
 
IMG_20180307_050730.jpg You might want to add fingergrooves to your order next time. While not actually grippy they lock into your grip. They can be added but it's a pretty radical modification. I like to add one near the front bolster.
The other option is to have the wood grips checkered, like the grip on a revolver. (Little sharp pointy diamonds). If yours was ordered without rivets this would be a fairly easy modification. Otherwise you would have to cut a border around each rivet.
 
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I have had issues with small phenolic handles being slippery (think working inside a deer with a Buck 102 - so I use a 118 with more handle size). I have not had that issue with a standard Buck 110; the curve in the grip seems to hold even a bloody, slippery knife in place. However, as has been mentioned above, look at the new G10 handled version or look for a full finger-groove 110 - either will add grip to the knife. OH
 
Lets not forget the great traction on the new 110 Light. SK will have one with upgraded steel soon too!
 
In nearly 50 years of using a Buck 110 and Uncle Henry 7OT, both with wood handles, I've ever had a problem with lack of traction, not even in the southernmost part of The Conch Republic.
As for making the 110 handle more grippy without sanding, have you considered a simple checkering pattern?
A gunsmith or stock maker could possibly do that for you fairly inexpensively.
It would not be necessary to checker the bolsters.
 
I have a cherry nickel silver 110 with factory checkering (from the master series era). It's a nice upgrade, as others have said, checkering might be a solution.

Maybe drill and epoxy in some nice copper tacks or something.
 
G0blin said:
I hope I'm posting in the correct section for this.

I bought a custom 100 some time last year, Cherrywood and nickle bolsters. It's a lovely knife but one thing keeps it on my desk and out of my pocket, and that's the lack of traction the wood seems to have. I'm not claiming it didn't come as intended, but I definitely would've chosen a different material if I had know just how smooth the wood is. down here in Florida, there's no shortage of damp palms to go around if you're outside, and a slippery knives is as dangerous as a hair trigger. Is there anything I can do to remedy that besides sanding? I've already tried that on a 120 since that isn't something I can carry so I'm not scared of trying it out. It didn't seem to have any noticeable effect though.

If my choices are "buy a new knife", could somebody advise me which material is the grippiest, and/or if the 110lt is grippy also.

Thanks guys.
Click to expand...

New 110LT lightweight checkered frn.
 
It's one reason I like the rivets on a 110. I know it's a free option on their customs and adds just the right amount of traction.

I picked up the SK 110 with G10 scales earlier this year and though it's a beautiful knife that was the only gripe I had with it. No rivets on the scales make it too smooth to hold.
 
Something about the rivets for me that is a no-brainer. My checkered 110 doesn't have them but I understand why. Otherwise, I always order rivets.
 
G0blin said:
I hope I'm posting in the correct section for this.

I bought a custom 100 some time last year, Cherrywood and nickle bolsters. It's a lovely knife but one thing keeps it on my desk and out of my pocket, and that's the lack of traction the wood seems to have. I'm not claiming it didn't come as intended, but I definitely would've chosen a different material if I had know just how smooth the wood is. down here in Florida, there's no shortage of damp palms to go around if you're outside, and a slippery knives is as dangerous as a hair trigger. Is there anything I can do to remedy that besides sanding? I've already tried that on a 120 since that isn't something I can carry so I'm not scared of trying it out. It didn't seem to have any noticeable effect though.

If my choices are "buy a new knife", could somebody advise me which material is the grippiest, and/or if the 110lt is grippy also.

Thanks guys.
Click to expand...
110 LT is super grippy. You'll like it. As for checkering, there are kits you can buy to do it yourself. With such a small space on the 110, you'll have an easy time of it.

Zieg
 
thanks for all the replies. I can safely say though that this isn't something I would try doing myself, in regards to the checkering. is there anybody on the forums who does this sort of thing? I'd obviously be able to pay them for the work.
 
Here is what I have done in the past. I went to ACE and bought some of that non-skid tape that you use in the bathtub or on ramps (skateboard tape works, too) and cut strips exactly the width of the scales on the BOTTOM side where the blade folds into them. I added the tape there and it does not detract from the looks of the knife, but when you pick it up, you are locked in and your hand will not skid.
 
Does it have rivets? If not I'd do it just for fun, if it has rivets it won't be fun, and I'm not interested.
 
Finger grooves are really helpful for locking in a good grip on the knife. A good way to do this is to buy the finger grooved model, but the finger grooves are not so pronounced. So I bought a plain 110 and took a file to it and made my own deeper finger grooves and sanded that out until desired finish.
tOdAJ1u.jpg
 
I like that a lot top gear. I'd like to see a picture of yours next to a factory fingergroove 110. It looks like that yours are also further forward that the factory ones. That is what I started to do, after made the first one I realized I liked it with just the one. I used a sanding drum in a drill press to make mine.
 
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