Buck 119 special

Joined
Jan 8, 2010
Messages
54
Hey let's hear your thoughts about the buck 119 special. What do you all think about the 420hc, how is the heat treat, and just general thoughts about the knife. I have always liked the look of the 119 special and it was the first fixed blade I ever bought and used. I am curious with all the new alloys and carbon steels, how does the buck 119 hold up. E. I. Compared to an esee or becker
 
You would get more response on the Buck forum, but I absolutely love mine. I have mine in a piggy back with a 102 and use them all the time, or at least I did before I had a stroke. The 420HC is excellent. It holds an edge very well, it's easy to sharpen, and it's very stain resistant. A true classic.
 
My old 119 (1989 - 425M??) is a simple classic. I find it takes longer to get an edge back once I wonked it up, but it's still a favorite that holds up well.
In the way of comparison, I just bought a new KA-BAR which is a great all around knife (1095 cro-van) but it has not sidelined the 119. The look, feel, balance, steel, and quality, keep the 119 in the rotation, despite its age.
 
Buck's 119 is a good general purpose, strong camp type knife. They have offered it in many different steels thru the years. At least 7 or 8 steels. You can find it in the one you want. Plus, many different handle materials and different grinds. From natural stacked leather to micarta. DM
 
I use the plane jane version and it makes for a great camp knife. It was my first knife actually. :thumbup:
 
Steve, yes a 1989 year 119 would have 425M steel. I'm curious to know what 'wonked it up' means. DM
 
Thanks David. I looked the steel up a while back but I wasn't sure. WONKY... It's a a silly but fun word my daughter uses that sort of rubbed off on me. What I meant by "wonked it up" was if I dulled it from use.

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=wonky

That 119 sat unused for a number of years and when I pulled it out of retirement I was surprised at how dull I'd let it get. It took me longer than I would have expected to get the edge back where I wanted it.

Here's a couple of crappy cell pics.



 
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It's a classic, no other word describes it better. First "serious" fixed blade I owned, got it nearly 15 years ago, still good to go. The steel was not too difficult to sharpen using the sandpaper/mousepad technique, had to slightly re-shape the tip after it broke off, but it worked out well (no pictures, don't have it on me). Can't really compare it to my Izula, would feel bad about using the Izula like I used the 119... Prying open things, opening cans, etc.
 
It's a good camp knife , and been around a long time. I modded mine by taking the top guard off and losing the clip point. It's widely available, so I could always get a stock one again. Almost looks like the blade shape of the Benchmade Contego ( reverse tanto type)

 
I loved the one I used to have. It sharpened easily and held an edge very well. I used it a lot, never abused it though. The only issue I had with it is the guard became loose after normal use. No batonning or anything crazy. I only cut with it and the guard started to wiggle like crazy.
 
Humm, That's the first I've heard of such. I've had mine for 35 years and use it every year and it's guard does not wiggle. It's a 1980 model. DM
 
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Thanks for the great input guys! I still love mine but all I ever seem to hear about anymore is the new carbon steels. Don't get me wrong I love my esee 6 and Bk 7 but something about the buck 119 just keeps pulling me back! I do like the idea of taking the back of the guard off tho!
 
Many guy's have grown up with Buck knives...including myself.
The 119 is a great classic that will last & last.
If you let the Buck steel get too dull it can be difficult to get that edge back...not as easily as 1095.
Either way...You can't go wrong & warrantee's on Buck,Esee & Becker are great.:thumbup:
 
I don't own one, but I did have a 110 (until I sold it to a member from the Buck forum). The sweeping clip and the swedge make for a fine tip, which can break if you pry or baton the knife. Not rocket science, but I hate it when people do these things and then complain about the knife or the company.
 
Here's mine, with the re-done tip. It's a 2003 model, not 2000 as I thought earlier.
aCF4iq1.jpg
 
Steve, 425M steel can be tricky to put an edge on. What stone were you using? DM
A crappy home depot stone (coarse and fine side) . I've only recently started to learn to sharpen myself. Up until two years ago, I'd ignore the edges or have a buddy sharpen them.
Now though, I feel like I've made a lot of progress and I enjoy sharpening. With that cheap stone and some time, I can get my knives to take a solid (paper cutting and maybe hair popping) edge. Am thinking about a Smith tri-stone system or sharpmaker next. Now that I have some basics down, I want to go to the next level.
I've observed my 119 to take longer to get that usable edge than my 1095 crovan or my aus8 blades. If I had a gun to my head, I might still chose the 119 over my others because it's a classic, versatile design that just speaks to me. I grew up with it and It's done everything I asked for 25+ years and still looks great and works well.
 
I loved the one I used to have. It sharpened easily and held an edge very well. I used it a lot, never abused it though. The only issue I had with it is the guard became loose after normal use. No batonning or anything crazy. I only cut with it and the guard started to wiggle like crazy.

I had one that did the same thing, loose guard. Nothing extreme but I could move it with slight pressure. I sent it back to Buck and they gave me a new one. Haven't had an issue since. They are formed by stacking pieces together and putting a pin through the but cap so no surprise that parts can move after some time.
 
Steve, yes it will take longer to sharpen than those steels. Your using a decent stone (with oil ?) and it's good that you can get that edge from it. I normally just take mine to the Norton fine India level. The right stropping could pick the edge up a step. Buck does a good cryogenic treatment on their blades hence the steel can resist a stone. Keeping working it on the fine side and your technique will improve. Enjoy your 119. DM
 
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