Buck 121X Grind Angle

[GSO1962]

New to the forums as I've recently started hunting again after a bit of a hiatus (life gets in the way sometimes...). I've got an old Buck 121, and from what I've read here, the "121X" on the tang indicates it was made in 1990. I used it to field dress one chamois while I was stationed in Germany in the mid-'90's, and on two wild hogs here in Texas during the last couple of weeks. I did say it was a hiatus... I've touched it up with a Buck sharpener and also a JA Henkels steel and it's still quite sharp. However, at some point I'll have to look at a more serious sharpening job. If I get a system that allows setting the sharpening angle, it would be nice to know the exact angle that Buck put on these knives at the factory. Current info on the Buck website says 13-16 degrees, but I'd like to get the exact angle if anyone would have access to that info.

Thanks in advance....and I suppose I should post a picture or something when I'm home later today...

Greg

 

[DeSotoSky]

Hopefully someone sharper on this subject than me will jump in with advice but I just want to say it is my understanding that BUCK knives are edged by hand, not machine. If you are happy with the curent edge geometry, it may be more a matter of reproducing the existing edge angle and remembering that setting on your fixture for future touchups.

 

[300Bucks]

As per Desoto's comment, there will be along some sharpening experts. I can with a fair feeling of being correct in saying that you will be 'best off' if you buy a new sharpening device to buy 'Diamond' type. As it will handle the older, hard Buck steels and the new super steels. Be it sticks or stones, or whatever......I have three 121s as kitchen knives and bought special diamond rods just for them........300Bucks

 

[genewiseman]

I would lay it down flat and the raise the back of the blade until the very edge comes into contact with the surface of the stone. Then just measure that angle. If it was done by hand, it might not be exactly the same on one side as the other or even from the tip to the coil of the blade. I always just do them freehand and try to reproduce what was already there.