Buck 124 sharpening

Joined
Apr 3, 2020
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185
Is it possible to ruin a knife while sharpening? I’m a total newbie on sharpening and i did Achieve shave sharpness in my Buck 124 however i noticed The very tip on one side doesn’t seem as sharp as the other. Also i noticed Some scratching on the chrome guard and some on the side of the blade that i think My sharpening caused. Have any of you experienced this during a sharpening? Try not to beat me up to hard with the answers LOL I’m just trying to learn. Thank you in advance!
 
You've asked basically this very same question 3 times in three weeks and 36 posts. The answers will be the same. You seem to have some issues other than blades scratches.--KV
 
You've asked basically this very same question 3 times in three weeks and 36 posts. The answers will be the same. You seem to have some issues other than blades scratches.--KV
I’m asking about sharpening and is there a better way i can Do it. I appreciate Your kindness
 
Guided rod system will be "better" or at least easier than freehand to maintain a constant angle, but may not be capable of giving you the 30 degree inclusive angle Buck sharpens their knives to. I think the finest/minimum on guided rods is around 40 degrees inclusive.

If you're worried about scratches, send it in to Buck for the SPA service, which includes sharpening.
It will come back looking like a new knife.
I think the SPA costs less than $10 ... maybe $6 something ...
 
Large, wide blades can be sharpened to lower angles, sometimes MUCH lower, than what might be implied for guided systems. The wider the blade, from spine to edge, the lower the actual sharpening angle will be, for a blade clamped at the spine in a guided system. Should be easy to attain 30 inclusive on a very wide blade like the Buck 124. The possible downside might be if the existing edge is very thick and/or wide in angle, then a LOT of steel would have to be removed to narrow the edge angle. On a very big, thick blade like this one, that could take a very long time on a guided setup with their typically smallish hones.

Not such a bad idea to send the knife to Buck for the spa treatment. In the interim, taking some time to get familiar with a guided system, using other inexpensive & less complex (smaller/thinner) knives for practice, might be a good path to pursue.
 
I’m asking about sharpening and is there a better way i can Do it. I appreciate Your kindness[/QUOTE
You've asked basically this very same question 3 times in three weeks and 36 posts. The answers will be the same. You seem to have some issues other than blades scratches.--KV
On a side note why go out of your way to comment just to be mean? Being mean is not showing any sort of strength but rather a weakness. It takes much more of a man or woman to be kind. I maybe Could understand if I was being malicious but I was not. I am Asking a simple question which is not the same as my others and I’m trying to learn. Why not just keep scrolling instead of going out of your way to be hateful? Especially in times like we are currently in?
 
I think Jared is trying to conceptualize information that he is reading here.I also sometimes ask questions to validate my own thoughts.I don't think he is trying to be tedious just reaffirm.
 
Your model may have 420hc steel or the recent model with 5160 steel. I wouldn't think a ceramic cup would do much. A decent stone of known
grit type from a good manufacturer would work better. Like a Norton India or SiC grit in coarse / fine. With this at least you know where you are starting from. DM
 
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Is it possible to ruin a knife while sharpening? I’m a total newbie on sharpening and i did Achieve shave sharpness in my Buck 124 however i noticed The very tip on one side doesn’t seem as sharp as the other. Also i noticed Some scratching on the chrome guard and some on the side of the blade that i think My sharpening caused. Have any of you experienced this during a sharpening? Try not to beat me up to hard with the answers LOL I’m just trying to learn. Thank you in advance!

You can ruin a blade pretty quickly, sharpening it on a power grinder. Sharpening by hand, on ceramic and a whetstone, your going to have to work long and hard to do much damage. It's not uncommon, in my experience, for the factory bevel to change angles from one end of the blade to the other, and one side of the blade to the other. Around the tip is, where I have seen this the most. My guess is that on one side of the blade, the angle steepened sharply near the tip. You probably haven't removed enough metal yet to correct for that. If that's the case you will have to keep working that part of the blade until you get it sharp. Work both sides of the tip evenly so that you keep your edge centered. When I sharpen a blade that I don't want to scratch, I cover the blade with blue painters tape, except for about 1/8 of an inch by the edge. I'm not good at free hand sharpening. So I use an Edge Pro style system. It is a guided system, but the blade is not clamped. It is held against a stop, with the aid of magnets. It works well for me.

O.B.
 
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