Buck 301 weak springs

[DocT]

I just got a Buck Stockman 301 to replace my pilfered old model. The springs are very weak. By very weak, I mean weak enough a toddler could open the knife with no effort. I know the springs have not been as strong as in past years, but this does seem a bit extreme. Shipping is an issue as it would cost twice the price of the knife to send it to Buck. Any thoughts?

(As a comparison, the Solitaire I bought a while back has perfect spring tension)

 

[JD Mandrell]

I'm guessing your old one was an earlier 2 spring model?

The newer 3 spring design has never had the "snap" of the older ones in my experience.

 

[DocT]

This is the standard black 301. Except for the springs, the rest of the knife is spot on, being better than many other brands. Good job Buck in that regard. But, the springs need work.

Yes, my old knife was a 2 spring.

 

[mnblade]

Thick blade grinds and flaccid backsprings ....... why I traded off my 303.

 

[Humppa]

I have some Buck Slipjoints (300 series) and the only two that have great spring tension are my two 302s. One I got from a friend here on BFC.

The only 301 I own has a weak spring as well, compared to the size of the knife and use i should get it into. I have no idea what you could do to solve the problem.

 

[chiral.grolim]

The new 301 was my introduction to Stockman knives, never owned one before. I subsequently purchased older (Camillus-made) 301, 307, Remington R-8, and Craftsman stockman knives, the latter two now gifted to family with pride. All of the older ones have excellent spring tension. This new 301 can be opened by my 3 yr old. On top of that, the grinds are thick such that trying to slice up cardboard it easily wedges/binds and then closes as I try to withdraw from the cut. Also, the grinds are poorly done, the blades seem mis-placed such that the spey-blade isn't properly seated below the scales

I have since reground each blade to remove the hollow entirely and thin the edges (and fix the tip of the spey), will post pics tomorrow. The spey/scalpel blades is now an actual scalpel Below are pics of the original knife before I modified anything. The best things about it are the beautiful polish/finish and the fact that it spins nicely on its spine - my older daughters, 3 and 6 years, love to spin it while we're reading stories together... but I have had to warn them more than once not to try opening it as I know they can.

 

[Badhammer]

I've got quite a few slipjoints, both Buck and others and not sure I see the issue? If the spring is so weak that the blades won't stay closed then yes, that's a problem. If it keeps them closed what does increasing the spring tension past that point serve?

 

[chiral.grolim]

I've got quite a few slipjoints, both Buck and others and not sure I see the issue? If the spring is so weak that the blades won't stay closed then yes, that's a problem. If it keeps them closed what does increasing the spring tension past that point serve?

See my post above - it keeps the knife open. These are not lock-blades, so the spring-tension must be sufficient to hold the blade open when withdrawing from a cut, e.g. whittling a piece of wood or cutting cardboard. My wife cannot use this knife in her garden because if she tries to cut a stem and the blade binds, she has trouble slipping the blade back out of the cut without it closing on her :thumbdn: This is not a problem with the older stockman or even my SAK due to stronger springs or just less-round tangs, also the thinner geometry on the older models that cut more efficiently with less binding.

In contrast, I bought an Aitor with such a strong spring or excessive tang that it could only be opened with great effort and would snap closed with dangerous force, but it took a lot of effort to make it close so I told the guy I got it for to get a sheath for it and never close it

 

[Badhammer]

See my post above - it keeps the knife open. These are not lock-blades, so the spring-tension must be sufficient to hold the blade open when withdrawing from a cut, e.g. whittling a piece of wood or cutting cardboard. My wife cannot use this knife in her garden because if she tries to cut a stem and the blade binds, she has trouble slipping the blade back out of the cut without it closing on her :thumbdn: This is not a problem with the older stockman or even my SAK due to stronger springs or just less-round tangs, also the thinner geometry on the older models that cut more efficiently with less binding.

In contrast, I bought an Aitor with such a strong spring or excessive tang that it could only be opened with great effort and would snap closed with dangerous force, but it took a lot of effort to make it close so I told the guy I got it for to get a sheath for it and never close it

Oh, OK. I was just going by the comments the OP made about them being weak to open. He didn't say there was a problem keeping the knife open.

 

[NMpops]

I have two 301's made about the same time (in 08 & 09) one a standard model the other a Chairman. The F&F is much better on the chairman. The standard model if fine when open but lacks the snap I'm used to seeing. It doesn't really snap open or closed, kind of mushy.

 

[DocT]

The sheepfoot on mine is particularly bad. It is mushy, like pulling a stick out of mud. But, it also closes so easily it could be a real problem when using the knife. All three blades are too weak, as far as blade tension goes, and I can see where withdrawing the knife from a cut would be dangerous to my fingers.

And yes, the comment about the 3 year old being able to open the knife was just exactly what I mentioned in my original post. I am not knocking Buck, it is one of my favorite brands, life-long. I KNOW Buck can make a better Stockman. So, please Buck people, if you read this, take it to heart.

 

[Badhammer]

DocT,

Have you tired cleaning the pivots with dish soap and hot water, drying and oiling the pivots? Sometimes buffing compound can cause the pivots to act up.

 

[chiral.grolim]

I haven't finished polishing, maybe I won't bother, but here is my adjusted Buck 301 (compare to images in post above):

I am debating grinding down the kick of the sheepsfoot and maybe the sides to get it to sit lower like the older models.
I dropped the point of the spey further into the scales so the tip doesn't protrude.

Flat-grind to thin the edges (now below 0.010") and much of the saber-flat, improving cutting geometry substantially

Spey-blade is now a scalpel as it should be:

Sheepsfoot remains relatively robust for wood-carving (slight asymmetry at the edge)

As you can see, the polish isn't perfect, but those scratches aren't hampering cutting-efficiency, and now the knife can complete most cuts without binding. Durability seems fine so far (using each blade for specific tasks to which the geometry is suited), and touch-ups are a LOT easier as well as there is less material to remove.

 

[DocT]

DocT,

Have you tired cleaning the pivots with dish soap and hot water, drying and oiling the pivots? Sometimes buffing compound can cause the pivots to act up.

I appreciate the tip. That might cure the mushy feel but it will do nothing for the overly weak springs, I am afraid.