Buck 532, removing lettering from blade

G

guitar1580

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Nov 5, 2012
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I just scored this like new 532. I’m not really fond of the "blade show" plain block lettering on the blade, and I think the knife would look better without it. I would like to remove it, but I’m concerned about getting it all off. It’s not laser etched into the blade, but appears to just be inked / stamped, etc.

Looking at the blade through a magnifier, I can see the tiny machining grooves that have the ink down in them. I’m concerned that I’ll get the letters mostly off, and that a faint shadow of them may still show through in the grooves, a situation I do not want. I suppose a buffing wheel would get them off, but I don’t have a wheel, and was thinking of trying to hand polish them away with something like Flitz or very fine wet sandpaper. As a last resort, I suppose Buck could remove them if I return it to the factory.

I was just wondering if anyone has successfully removed this style of lettering, and how you may have done it. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

4MOfoR8.jpg
 
I have a 531 King Charles II that had a pad printed logo. I was able to carefully remove it by hand working my way up to about 1500 grit, maybe finer. The difference between my knife and yours is that mine has a more or less mirror finish. If you try sanding yours you are likely to change the machining groove finish. Buffing might work or, as you said, send it in to Buck.

Bert551 (1).png551 (2).png
 
not sure other than polishing it off.....but wouldnt it make sense to sell it off to someone who wants that collectible version and buying a version without the etching? I know their discontinued minus the Remington version currently, but Larry sells quite a few........every year on consignment.

course your knife to do as ya please.
 
I've found 4/600 grit to match the standard Buck finish the best but what works for you is up to you. I've also found that doing it by hand is a royal pain. Your going to find it isn't inked on and it takes a lot of work to remove it.
 
I've removed stuff like that with a sisal buff and black rogue. Can you attach a fine sanding drum to your drill and work carefully? DM
 
bertl said:
I have a 551 King Charles II that had a pad printed logo. I was able to carefully remove it by hand working my way up to about 1500 grit, maybe finer. The difference between my knife and yours is that mine has a more or less mirror finish. If you try sanding yours you are likely to change the machining groove finish. Buffing might work or, as you said, send it in to Buck.

BertView attachment 1085422View attachment 1085423
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That 551 is nice. have only seen those in plain wood.
 
Thanks for the info. folks. I'll probably wait until I have another knife or two to send in, and let Buck do it. I have a feeling that it will be difficult to do without leaving something behind. I'm not really concerned about the collector value. I got a decent deal on it, and the plain block letters don't really do much for me.

Nice knife, Bert!

JT
 
I removed the lettering on a leather handled 102 Bean Buck starting with 220 wet or dry paper, progressing to 320 or 400 grit. 600 grit paper starts getting a little too fine and you begin to get the polished look. I've made many a used 110/112 look 100% better by removing careless sharpening marks this way. Same method for the frame/inserts but go to at least 600 or finer, down to 1500 for a nice hand finished look without buffing (which usually looks worse and can do more harm than good). Vintage fixed blade models get the same treatment when needed, but stay away from the phenolic with the buffer if possible, as it is heat sensitive.

JMHO, but I use this method for many old, abused Buck knives as they respond very well.
 
I forgot to reveal the most important detail when using the wet or dry paper on your blade; I use NEW pink erasers for sanding blocks and strips of sandpaper cut to width. Sand only perpendicular to the blade, as scratches will show in any other direction than the original grind. Use dry or with water or honing oil, or even WD40 as a lubricant and to extend the life of the sandpaper. Good luck!
 
gunstockjack said:
I removed the lettering on a leather handled 102 Bean Buck starting with 220 wet or dry paper, progressing to 320 or 400 grit. 600 grit paper starts getting a little too fine and you begin to get the polished look. I've made many a used 110/112 look 100% better by removing careless sharpening marks this way. Same method for the frame/inserts but go to at least 600 or finer, down to 1500 for a nice hand finished look without buffing (which usually looks worse and can do more harm than good). Vintage fixed blade models get the same treatment when needed, but stay away from the phenolic with the buffer if possible, as it is heat sensitive.

JMHO, but I use this method for many old, abused Buck knives as they respond very well.
Click to expand...

Good advice.

As a note Phenolic is not heat sensitive. I suppose thereis an upper limit, but you can buff the snot out of those with no color change or burn marks showing. Not that I am saying you should not be careful with any modification you do..
 
I sent in a similar knife that had ink/etch for a Spa Treatment and asked if they could get it out and they didn't guarantee but said they would try. When i received it back their wasn't a trace of the advertisement left on the blade. Buck does an amazing job and they are very communicative
 
Thanks again folks. Great info, and good to know AZbuckNM.

A while ago, I polished out the handle on a 526 executive to a mirror finish to match the mirrored blade. I think I worked my way up to 2000 grit. Came out nice but took a while. I don't think I wanna try that blade on the 532 ... good job for the experts and well worth the cost.

I sent a vintage script logo Ultima in quite a few yrs ago for the spit shine. It was all scratched up from pocket change, and they did an AMAZING job on it. I still have it.

JT
 
JT, if they'll do it it's well worth the money. I know I spent at least an hour on one blade and it's still ghosted on the blade.
 
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