Buck bantam lock up

ZeroTurnDude said:
Is there any way to tighten up the pivot on bantam 285?

Thanks
Click to expand...

ZTD, the title of your post and the body of your refer to two different things.

If you are interested in tightening up the pivot pin to eliminate/reduce side-to-side blade play, here is my video on tightening pivot pins:
[video=youtube;ySqwxPmF4-k]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySqwxPmF4-k[/video]

If you want to adjust the lock up of the back lock on your 285, I defer to more knowledgeable members of this forum.
 
Sorry about the title.

But it's is a lock up problem. it's got a lot of side to side
And a lil bit of up and down I was thinking if I tighten up
The pivot it would fix it.

Again sorry about the title.

Thanks.
 
Tried what the video said to do and it fixed the side to side
But not the up and down. What do I need to do now.

Thanks.
 
dogstar said:
ZTD, the title of your post and the body of your refer to two different things.

If you are interested in tightening up the pivot pin to eliminate/reduce side-to-side blade play, here is my video on tightening pivot pins:
[video=youtube;ySqwxPmF4-k]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySqwxPmF4-k[/video]

If you want to adjust the lock up of the back lock on your 285, I defer to more knowledgeable members of this forum.
Click to expand...

Nice video, thanks for sharing that.
 
Is the knife unlocking unexpectedly, or are you trying to get rid of some play?

Honestly, I think some up-and-down play is normal for a back lock, especially as the knife is used. Unless it is a safety issue, I would not worry about it. The knife will cut just as well with a little up and down play.
 
First thing I would do is to clean the lock tab and notch really well. To see if they will seat better, and therefore lock up tighter.

Also, examine the blade pivot and the lockbar pivot.
Specifically check to see if the pivots are moving up and down in their holes, when you test for blade play.
 
DesertChris said:
First thing I would do is to clean the lock tab and notch really well. To see if they will seat better, and therefore lock up tighter.

I've done that it helped a lil but it still has a problem.

Also, examine the blade pivot and the lockbar pivot.
Specifically check to see if the pivots are moving up and down in their holes, when you test for blade play.
Click to expand...

Both pivots are moving up and down in there holes.
I can feel it moving when I check for play and when I'm pressing down and cutting something
Like rope I can feel the blade and the lock bar move up.
 
Last edited:
dogstar said:
If your lock is failing, I would send it back to Buck, or just get a new one.
Click to expand...

Yep.... What dogstar said...


or if you are fairly industrious,
what I would try is to carefully remove the pivot pins/rivots for the blade and lockbar.
Then take some appropriate thickness nickel silver rod, and cut pieces a little longer than what you need.
replace the old pins with the new nickel silver rod pieces.
Then carefully peen them in place.
If you hit the rods on the ends with a peening hammer just right, you can swell the width of the rod, filling the holes in the handle slabs more thoroughly.
The idea being to swell the part of the rod in the handles, and not the part passing through the blade.

Then at the end use the peening hammer to carefully reform the "dome" at the end of the pin.

This would take a bit of effort and expense though. Probably easier and more cost effective to send it to Buck under warranty.
 
Sounds like it would be fun to try I don't really want to send it in cuz it was 14 bucks and got a nano and it
We'll cost me 10 to send it in lol
 
Every design has its limits. Obviously you can send it back to Buck and they will either fix it or replace it.

I drove 2 Bucklite Max folders to early death by using them to cut brush on my property. I agree with others who note that some amount of vertical play is normal in lockbacks. I've had lock backs from other vendors that do it.

But there is play and then there is play and having the pivots move in the frame suggests that the frame holes are opening up. Buck told me that the linerless plastic framed knives just aren't as tough as ones with metal liners or bolsters.

If you're pushing the knife in hard cutting, I would suggest trying a non lock back design. Perhaps the Vantage?

I still have and collect lock backs including Bucks but for hard cutting, I rely on my Opinel, which has a design that stands up to hard cutting forces much better. A decent liner lock or frame lock would be the next closest. The designs all put the blades detent up against a solid, non moving stop. Lock bars move and ultimately are source of that common play. Which is to say, even if Buck replaced your Bantam, it still might move a bit.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top