Buck blade metals

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southARbuck

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Nov 20, 2018
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first time poster but have been reading here for a while. I am learning about all the different metals used by Buck and some “custom” designed for places like copper and clad, can someone shed some light on the differences in the 5160, s30v, and 420hc?
I currently have a 93 Buck 110, a 154CPM (never been used), and 110 Auto. Use a Dans Whetstone in Arkansas soft and black stone to sharpen my knives and am looking to grow the collection. Thanks in advanced
 
Here's a link to a chart I came across and refer to often because I'm old and get confused with all the numbers and letters :rolleyes:
It's fairly inclusive but could go for an update - CLICK HERE
I don't see anything about 5160 but Google can be your friend.
Hope it helps,
OG
 
I just got my first example of 5160 in a Buck 102.
I'm sure it is tough and all.
Doesn't seem particularly hard . . . for example on like a Japanese kitchen knife in plain high carbon / White Paper steel.
I've used it some but not enough to give a good overall evaluation. I never pry with a knife so it probably isn't the best steel for me (I want good and hard = 62 to 64) but good for a person who wants a pry bar.
 
OLd_gUY said:
Here's a link to a chart I came across and refer to often because I'm old and get confused with all the numbers and letters :rolleyes:
It's fairly inclusive but could go for an update - CLICK HERE
I don't see anything about 5160 but Google can be your friend.
Hope it helps,
OG
Click to expand...
Thanks! This is the type of info I was looking for. It’s a shame it doesn’t list 5160.
 
Wowbagger said:
I just got my first example of 5160 in a Buck 102.
I'm sure it is tough and all.
Doesn't seem particularly hard . . . for example on like a Japanese kitchen knife in plain high carbon / White Paper steel.
I've used it some but not enough to give a good overall evaluation. I never pry with a knife so it probably isn't the best steel for me (I want good and hard = 62 to 64) but good for a person who wants a pry bar.
Click to expand...
I am new to all this blade material and trying learn. I know I have a long ways to go given all the element makeup and processes of how they are blended along with heat treatment of said blades, but the main thing I am concerned about is how easy they sharpen with Arkansas stones and making sure they don’t rust. I do have another brand knife that was given as a gift that I don’t even use due to low corrosion resistance. Let me know how it sharpens if ya don’t mind. Given what little I have read, I think the 5160 is pretty close to 420 in ease.
 
5160 might be about the same in sharpening but it tarnishes and for me, that's a problem. Sounds like that may be your case too. I don't have a problem sharpening S30V but I don't use stones. Stones may be a problem.
 
kossetx said:
5160 might be about the same in sharpening but it tarnishes and for me, that's a problem. Sounds like that may be your case too. I don't have a problem sharpening S30V but I don't use stones. Stones may be a problem.
Click to expand...
Now we are cooking! What do you use to sharpen S30V? I ask cause I have both a 154CM and 154CPM. The 154CM is a pain on the stones or I’m very impatient, maybe a little of both
 
5160 is carbon steel and will rust if not maintained. I will deal with any issues with SS before dealing with rust issues
 
David Martin said:
A 2 grit, coarse / fine stone with SiC grit will sharpen that steel quickly. DM
Click to expand...
I just finished reading 2 pages from 2014 that you had a few replies and doing some googling, I may have overlooked this but any particular brand you recommend? They don’t look as expensive as thought they would be. And some other members stated a fine for 420 would be like an extra fine for s30v due to not taking as much metal off. Any truth to that?
 
Saint Gobain is right around the corner from my house. I assume stay away from the water hones and stick with oil hones? I really love how easy the 420 is to sharpen and don’t mind sharpening when needed but I have a couple that are pain to sharpen and Copper & Clad have some awesome Bucks that I really want. Thank you for all the help.
 
southARbuck said:
I just finished reading 2 pages from 2014 that you had a few replies and doing some googling, I may have overlooked this but any particular brand you recommend? They don’t look as expensive as thought they would be. And some other members stated a fine for 420 would be like an extra fine for s30v due to not taking as much metal off. Any truth to that?
Click to expand...

I wonder about this statement. To me a stone of SiC 320 grit is barely 'fine'. You'll have to soft touch and work it to get the best edge out of it. But that is where I usually stop as I am a 1-2 grit sharpener. DM
 
southARbuck said:
Saint Gobain is right around the corner from my house. I assume stay away from the water hones and stick with oil hones? I really love how easy the 420 is to sharpen and don’t mind sharpening when needed but I have a couple that are pain to sharpen and Copper & Clad have some awesome Bucks that I really want. Thank you for all the help.
Click to expand...
Now you're getting into the area of personal preference. If, by a water stone you mean a Japanese water stone (others please correct me if I'm passing on bad info) there is a necessity to pre-soak them for a period of time before use and to keep them wet during sharpening. That said, I use (personal preference) a solution of water with a few drops of Dawn when I use a "non-oil" stone. I figure the oil causes a hassle I'd rather not mess with, both during sharpening and with clean up.
Like I say, there is more than one way to chew the cabbage and each to his own said the farmer as he kissed the cow.
Others may disagree and I suggest you do some research before buying any products.
There is a 6" extra coarse/coarse - fine/extra fine 2 stone set made by a company with 3 initials that might fill your need. Don't Make Things too difficult - look around the sharpening forum for more info.
 
OLd_gUY said:
Now you're getting into the area of personal preference. If, by a water stone you mean a Japanese water stone (others please correct me if I'm passing on bad info) there is a necessity to pre-soak them for a period of time before use and to keep them wet during sharpening. That said, I use (personal preference) a solution of water with a few drops of Dawn when I use a "non-oil" stone. I figure the oil causes a hassle I'd rather not mess with, both during sharpening and with clean up.
Like I say, there is more than one way to chew the cabbage and each to his own said the farmer as he kissed the cow.
Others may disagree and I suggest you do some research before buying any products.
There is a 6" extra coarse/coarse - fine/extra fine 2 stone set made by a company with 3 initials that might fill your need. Don't Make Things too difficult - look around the sharpening forum for more info.
Click to expand...
Understood. I looked at another thread and there was a small debate and I already have a huge amount of honing oil that I bought when I got my Arkansas stones and saw there are two types from Norton St. Gobain.


I almost wish I had not stumbled upon this site because it’s gonna cost me a bunch of money. So many places sale special/limited/custom Bucks (Never would have found until I started reading here)that are truly unique and beautiful but I wasn’t sure of the different metals and their characteristics. I do understand that some info is very subjective but there is so much of it out there, so who’s right and who’s wrong? So I decided to join and ask the fellow Buck fans
 
I'm not a steel expert, but I enjoy trying the different steels in my Buck Knives on their designed purpose - cleaning game (I like 440C and 425MOD best for taking and keeping an edge). One thing that sticks in my mind, on the Buck Knives website they state that S30V is the best blade steel available - I keep that in the back of my mind when I read about and buy Buck knives with different blade steels - Buck should know! OH
 
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