Buck buckmaster broken tip

Megabassx7

Megabassx7

Joined
Jan 1, 2016
Messages
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My dad gave me his old buckmaster and it has a broken tip. Maybe 1/16 of an inch. 1/8th at most. How would one go about fixing that? He broke it prying open a dead oyster if that helps :jerkit:
 
I would use a file (most likely fine) to re-profile the tip- File upwards towards to tip and against the edges (main and false edges) until you achieve the tip profile you desire.

Then use that file to regrind the edge at the tip. Then sharpen.

I'm not sure what steel Buck used or what hardness level it possesses, but I think a basic file would work. If it didn't, and if the steel was too hard for the file I would use a coarse DMT diamond hone.
 
You'll probably need to re-grind part of the curve of the blade to make the new tip blend in properly. I would NOT isolate the tip for this. If you do, you'll probably end up with a funny looking tip that changes shape right where the broken part was. You want a nice continuous curve leading up to the tip, just like it looked from the factory.

The good news is, a regular kind of sharpening motion, with a little more time spent in the area near the tip, will automatically re-form a sharp point. It's not all that hard. If you really care about that blade, maybe practice on another one first. Once you've seen it and/or done it a time or two, it becomes much easier.

Brian.
 
Thanka Brian I'll try. Seems like over time it has developed a major convex edge. Maybe a worksharp bga would help this out? I'll try and upload a photo tonight
 
A picture of the knife would help... like bgentry said, you don't want to work just the tip, but work up to the tip. You can also repair the tip from the edge side, spine side, or a combination. For example, I used to buy broken knives off eBay to work on, here's a couple of Kershaw Leeks showing the difference. The top is how a Leek should look (no repair), the 2nd is fixing it from the edge side, (note it is shorter but looks right), and the third is from the spine side...

cb295fe577b88865dd930587ff52637b_zpsd2anbfwi.jpg


There's no real rule other than don't just work right at the tip. If it's not much of a break, sometimes just a good sharpening will restore it. It helps to draw on the knife with a Sharpie to get an idea of how it will look when done.
 
I'll get ya guys a picture so you can give me the best idea of how exactly. I know it was his favorite knife and he used it alot. I'd like to fix it and give it back to him. I can't believe what a used buck 184 goes for ebay. I was just going to buy a used one and try to use it as a guide to how it should look but I'll just look at Internet pictures lol
 
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This is the tip. Sorry for quality my phone has been terrible taking pictures lately
 
My .02, if you can, I would work both sides (spine and edge) to keep the tip point on the midline. On the spine side you could probably go from that first... serration? straight to the midline. On the edge side, start on the belly maybe 1/3 of the way back, and work it as a curve to the midline where the new tip will be. (Wish I had a way to draw on a picture). Anyway, like I said before, mark it with a Sharpie to give you an idea.

Here's another knife I did a while back as an example... put a tip on a 'safety knife' similar to what I'm suggesting...

adf5df73302a2b9a30918760acc0630b_zpsddjautwr.jpg


Little more involved, but same concept. Easiest way for me is to shape it 90° to the abrasive, then grind in a new edge. Hope that helps.
 
It's hard to tell the scale from that picture, but I agree that it might need shaping from both sides. Here's one way you could go. The black areas are what you would grind away to form the new point and blade curve.

lTMnI6O.jpg


Brian.
 
I have a feeling you made it seem way to easy lol. Would using a bga or a stone be the best bet?
 
I would use the back side of the BGA where the platen is. You can run it slow enough that excess metal removal and heat buildup shouldn't be an issue (cool as needed)... and it's easier to see what you're doing.

Like I said before, I think it's easiest to do the majority of the work 90° to the belt. On the spine side that's pretty easy. On the edge side, as you get close to the shape you want, you can switch and sharpen in a new bevel and edge. Remember to start back and work towards the tip (on both sides).

If you want a bit of practice, snap the tip off a cheap kitchen knife... I think you'll find it is easier than it sounds.
 
I'm not much of a video guy, but I tried to make a quick demonstration video, showing how I'd do it...

https://vimeo.com/158523117

I forgot to mark it with a Sharpie, but that's the basics. The blade never got hot... when I make repairs like this, I don't cool hot blades, I start with the blade cool, and as it warms up, I had a bucket of water I re-cool it in. (It didn't get as warm as the phone did making the video). :)

After the point where I turn the sharpener around, you can see there's still not quite a point, and a now a thick edge. So at this point, start grinding in a new edge, as that comes together, the point will form... then blend it all together when you sharpen it. (Oh yeah, you may want to dull or tape the whole edge first...) :eek:

Not that great a video, just wanted to show a demo. Yours will obviously take longer, but you don't have to do it all at once, work on it a bit and as I tried to show, check often! Hope that helps.
 
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