Buck Ergohunter Pro (S30V) vs. Blackjack model 125 (A2)

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Aug 25, 2010
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Trying to decide on a new hunting (deer) knife.

Currently looking at the two knives in the thread title

Note: I am a novice when it comes to actual construction and design of knives, though I use them frequently in the kitchen and the field. So please call me out if I dont know what I'm talking about in technical terms.

anyway:

Buck Ergohunter

the good
-Ergonomic design
-rubber inlay in handle for better grip in cold/wet environment
-price
-comes with a separate gut hook with a pocket on the sheath, I've never used one but have considered trying it for a while

the bad
Stainless steel blade (S30V)
very utilitarian design


Blackjack model 125

the good
A2 steel blade
attractive design (could see this one turning collectible)
finger guard (not sure if there is a technical term)

the bad
-price
-no accessories (though I'm still not sure how important this is to me)
-without handling one I'm not quite sure the handle will be as functional in the field as the Buck

Now Im sure you could go back and forth for days about carbon vs. stainless steel blades but I'll tell you why I am interested in carbon; I've always used stainless in the field and mostly in the kitchen. However, about 4 years ago I recieved a kikuichi 6.5" santoku carbon steel knife as a gift and its basically the only knife I use anymore. I have not sharpened it once in 4 years and this thing is still razor sharp. I want a blade like this in my hunting knife. I cant lock down exactly what type of steel it is, but from the website I've gathered that its either white or blue carbon steel.

Anyway, back to the topic at hand, help me pick one of these;

BU498RWS.jpg


BJ125BM.jpg
 
It sounds like you have some desire for carbon, but I wouldn't consider the S30V on the ergohunter as "bad". I have an ergohunter and would recommend it. It has a good grip and is easy in the hand. I also like the gut hook feature being a seperate tool. I don't really like a gut hook on the knife.
 
It sounds like you have some desire for carbon, but I wouldn't consider the S30V on the ergohunter as "bad". I have an ergohunter and would recommend it. It has a good grip and is easy in the hand. I also like the gut hook feature being a seperate tool. I don't really like a gut hook on the knife.

I agree with you Tony in regards to S30V being a negative. the only time I could see it as a negative would be if your trying to split the pelvis bone with it...though you really shouldnt and if your one who does split them in the field I suggest a small saw. As S30V seems prone to chip with that kind of work where as I have not yet had A2 chip out.

Now to me the Blackjack is a Classic design modeled after Randalls design and having used this knife I really like the feel of it. I have not yet held the buck but to me well....it doesnt do it for me. Just looks ugly in my eyes but you cant judge on looks.

The thing you HAVE to remember about A2 is that with it being a carbon steel it will Stain and it is much more prone to rust than S30V. So when you do use it on game etc you need to clean it up good after using and it helps to keep it oiled after use and in storage. With continued use the A2 will patina and stain and will look different. I like that about A2, some do not.

I'd go with the blackjack but its all personal preference.
 
It sounds like you have some desire for carbon, but I wouldn't consider the S30V on the ergohunter as "bad". I have an ergohunter and would recommend it. It has a good grip and is easy in the hand. I also like the gut hook feature being a seperate tool. I don't really like a gut hook on the knife.

only comparatively speaking do I consider the S30V "bad"

however, like I said I've never paid much attention to actual steel types up until now since I'm considering a knife purchase that I want to last a long time (my current knife is a hand-me-down). And theres really no way for me to guage the long term performance of either without buying both.

How has the edge on your S30V held up since you purchased it?

BTW, I agree, I would only go for a separate gut hook, which definitely favors the buck as it is included plus has a pocket on the sheath
 
I agree with you Tony in regards to S30V being a negative. the only time I could see it as a negative would be if your trying to split the pelvis bone with it...though you really shouldnt and if your one who does split them in the field I suggest a small saw. As S30V seems prone to chip with that kind of work where as I have not yet had A2 chip out.

Now to me the Blackjack is a Classic design modeled after Randalls design and having used this knife I really like the feel of it. I have not yet held the buck but to me well....it doesnt do it for me. Just looks ugly in my eyes but you cant judge on looks.

The thing you HAVE to remember about A2 is that with it being a carbon steel it will Stain and it is much more prone to rust than S30V. So when you do use it on game etc you need to clean it up good after using and it helps to keep it oiled after use and in storage. With continued use the A2 will patina and stain and will look different. I like that about A2, some do not.

I'd go with the blackjack but its all personal preference.


I learned quickly after owning my kikuichi carbon blade that they need to be cared for properly, I'm very much ok with this.

How do you like the grip on your blackjack? Does it hold well in wet/cold/bloody conditions?
 
Unfortunately my ergohunter has only field dressed and partially processsed one doe (and she wasn't mine), so the edge is still like new. Trying to decide between two knives is tough...so just buy both and let other knife nuts know what you think of each! I'm headed out soon to check a deer cam. Hopefully they've grown some more. Click 2x for full size.

 
I learned quickly after owning my kikuichi carbon blade that they need to be cared for properly, I'm very much ok with this.

How do you like the grip on your blackjack? Does it hold well in wet/cold/bloody conditions?


The grib on it is a bit slippery when wet and bloody. I like the grip on it for multiple holding styles as its a simple oval shaped handle. Your going to get a better grip with the buck I'd say given its rubber handle material and the checkering in the grip. Another thing to consider is the thumb ramp is grooved on the buck but not on the BJ.

Also these are two very different styles of knives in design. One with a gaurd and more traditional handle with tool steel the other stainless with a more purpose specific handle. I have used knives both with and without a gaurd. I you know what you are doing a gaurd isnt needed and sometimes I find it gets in the way a little bit. But again thats all preferance and how you use it.
 
The Buck ErgoHunter-Pro is too heavy for what it is and I'm not sure if the recurve, saber-grind blade makes any sense at all for a hunting knife.
 
Of the two I would go with the Buck, but it really is too much knife. Remember you're only cuting 1/4" of hide and meat. I also would never split the bone, cut the back end out and pull it through. The only other taks is circle the diaphram and disconnect the wind pipe.

You'll find the bigger the knife the harder the task. Also, around here big knives are a sign of a greenhorn.

Rubber grips or checkered wood are nice but not necessary. If I had a choice I'd go with rubber.

To be perfectly honest the best knife from field to freezer is a 3" to 4" thin narrow blade. Something one would use on fish is perfect. I try three to five new knives per year for processing deer and find the 3 1/2" blades shine. You can forget fancy steel too. They just take longer to sharpen. I use one step above what a butcher uses and find it perfect. I can get clear through a deer and after clean up putting a keen edge back on the blade isn't a pain in the butt.

There is a reason butchers use knives with soft blades. Process enough deer and you'll figure it out.
 
Of the two I would go with the Buck, but it really is too much knife. Remember you're only cuting 1/4" of hide and meat. I also would never split the bone, cut the back end out and pull it through. The only other taks is circle the diaphram and disconnect the wind pipe.

You'll find the bigger the knife the harder the task. Also, around here big knives are a sign of a greenhorn.

Rubber grips or checkered wood are nice but not necessary. If I had a choice I'd go with rubber.

To be perfectly honest the best knife from field to freezer is a 3" to 4" thin narrow blade. Something one would use on fish is perfect. I try three to five new knives per year for processing deer and find the 3 1/2" blades shine. You can forget fancy steel too. They just take longer to sharpen. I use one step above what a butcher uses and find it perfect. I can get clear through a deer and after clean up putting a keen edge back on the blade isn't a pain in the butt.

There is a reason butchers use knives with soft blades. Process enough deer and you'll figure it out.


Sound advice for sure, do you/have you used a gut hook? Worth giving a shot or am I better off just sticking with a good knife?
 
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This blade style really is perfect for this task. Schrade also makes one just like it for about $20 but it has bone handles. I looked for a like but could only find the 8" version of it.
 
Of the two I would go with the Buck, but it really is too much knife. Remember you're only cuting 1/4" of hide and meat. I also would never split the bone, cut the back end out and pull it through. The only other taks is circle the diaphram and disconnect the wind pipe.

You'll find the bigger the knife the harder the task. Also, around here big knives are a sign of a greenhorn.

Rubber grips or checkered wood are nice but not necessary. If I had a choice I'd go with rubber.

To be perfectly honest the best knife from field to freezer is a 3" to 4" thin narrow blade. Something one would use on fish is perfect. I try three to five new knives per year for processing deer and find the 3 1/2" blades shine. You can forget fancy steel too. They just take longer to sharpen. I use one step above what a butcher uses and find it perfect. I can get clear through a deer and after clean up putting a keen edge back on the blade isn't a pain in the butt.

There is a reason butchers use knives with soft blades. Process enough deer and you'll figure it out.


For out in my bag and an all around hunting knife I like a knife that can perform many tasks. I do agree you only need a 3 inch very thin blade to do the job. However I like my knives to cover a variety of chores and not just a dedicated field dressing knife. I tend to agree a large knife is normally something an inexperienced hunter uses. Though like I said I prefer my hunting knife to be able to perform "other" tasks if needed.

When I am back at the barn or in the garage processing an animal I use knives specific to butchering (family runs a Beef farm...cut up my share of beef and venison) and there I agree with you a butchers knife is preferable.

when you get right down to it you arent going to use this knife a heck of alot at least I dont. You cut open the hide, cut the connections and pull out the guts, I split the rib cage and here a thicker knife is nice and I get less blood on me. Overall though the process isnt long. I also dont use this knife for taking the hide off unless I am packing the animal (I have done this) as I have better suited knives at home for skinning and deboning.

I dont know if the OP is looking for a knife to do just the field dressing or if he wants it to be able to go from hoof to steaks using the same blade.

I disagree with fancy steel. A2 isnt all that difficult to sharpen and keeps an great edge through this kind of work. With some hunts I do I take 2 or 3 deer as friends need them and my father may take one or 2 as well. I dont want to have to resharpen in the field or worry if it can handle the work. My knives in D2 and A2 arent fancy steels they are well known tool steels that beat out softer ones for this work.

But like I said...its all personal preference. Do it over and over and figure out what works for you. Thats why I ended up with a heck of alot of hunters...always looking for a better tool. Plus I am a knife whore:D
 
The blackjack is convex ground. It will keep its edge longer. A2 is a crazy good steel, especially for what you want it to do. The point is more acute and so will be easier to use.

I had some s30v awhile back. It was good, but I wasn't so impressed that I would give up my old 1095 for it. The big problem with that Buck is the recurve; you will have to sharpen it on a rod or not use half the blade. Their older, more traditional stuff in 420HC has a straight edge, and so doesn't have that problem.

You can take a rod of butcher steel and a leather belt keep that Blackjack as sharp as you need it to be unless you try to skin a rock. But I hear the meat on them is pretty tough.

So I would go for the Blakcjack. The gut hook on the Buck is nice, but you can get one with interchangable blades and not have to sharpen it. Ever.

Just my $.02 worth.
 
I like the thinner blade profile of the BR, both the BR and the BJ are 5" which seems to be a happy medium between field dressing capable and general use capable.
 
I am most impressed with Buck's heat treat of S30V. The edge retention of Buck S30V in making slicing cuts is very very good. If you are primarily going to use the knife as a skinner, I would prefer Buck S30V over A2.

If you were going to do more camp work with the knife, the A2 might serve you better, as would the design of the Bark River compared to that of the Ergo Hunter.

In the end, I doubt you would be unsatisfied no matter which you chose. Both are excellent knives.
 
They're both nice but I wouldn't use either one to field dress or process a deer. General field dressing is done with a folder or fixed blade around 4" or less, depending on what I have in my bag at the time. Anything longer is just a pain in the butt.

For actually processing the meat, I'm on the same page as cultivateitnow. Something thin and easy to sharpen is the best. I've got a couple of Mora fishing knives that do very well, also a F. Dick knife (not sure what the model is). They hold an excellent edge yet are easy to touch up. A thin blade cuts with less effort too.

Gut hooks suck. I've never found one that will actually work like it's supposed to. The gut hook was actually developed as a hook to grab wire pot handles with. Someone got the idea to sharpen it and sell it to use to slit cavitites open. Look at the professional processors and hunters, I'd say that 95% of them don't use them.

Even the ones with replaceable blades are crappy in my book. I've got the Gerber copy of the Wyoming Knife. Tried it once, and it was horrible. I can do it much easier and faster the old fashioned way.
 
I love the Blackjack 125 and prefer the Bark River next, but to me, they're both too big.

Like others have mentioned, about 3.5" seems to be "just right" for field dressing whitetails; maybe even just 3". I like a drop point blade shape. I try to use a different knife or two each season. My Busse Boney Active Duty (BAD) is my favorite deer knife so far.
BADandsheath1.jpg



The Fallkniven F1 is a pretty good deer knife too.
FallknivenF1.jpg


This fall, I need to try out my new Randall Model 8 Trout and Bird:
RandallModel8c.jpg


I think most of the knives advertised as "hunting" knives are too large for deer hunting use. My rough test for blade length and handle design is to hold the knife and then place my index finger along the top of the blade. I prefer a handle and blade that allows the tip of my index finger to just cover the point. (Even the Randall "Trout and Bird" knife is longer than I'd prefer for deer!) Instead of using a gut hook to open the abdominal cavity I like to use the knife, inverted, with my index finger along the the back and protecting the point from piercing the internal organs while slicing open the skin.

Stay sharp,
desmobob
 
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