Buck Intrepid, SEAL SOG 2000 good for if TSHTF?

[josywales3]

This actually started out as a sale thread, but I wanted to get some advice from the Buck guys first.

I have a CRK Aviator for field use, carry while archery hunting, etc. I have a Katz Lion Cub as a field carry or survial knife if needed. What I want now is a 7" knife that goes with TSHTF bag. You know, if I were able to grab only one knife to use as a survival tool and self defense. (Keep in mind that my Ritter RSK would always be with me regardless.) The question is, is the Intrepid 7" that knife?

I just bought one to see what it was like and it's very impressive. I picked up a Seal SOG 2000 as well. And I have a Ranger RD7 on the way, though that's mainly a camp knife for me. Am I on the right track? I'll keep the RD7 for camp no matter what, but I really only want to keep one 7" TSHTF knife...I know. The knife would be left to sit, until it ws needed so rust resistant would be mandatory. And I'm open to other knives as well.

 

[djolney]

My go heavy knife is a Swamp Rat Ratweiler. Other than my Busses it’s the toughest knife I’ve ever used. I would prefer the Rat to either the SOG or Buck, and, IMO, rust resistance isn’t an issue.

There are plenty of good corrosion resistance products out there (including excellent old fashioned alternatives like pure lanolin), and the benefits of carbon steel hard use blades are numerous —and outweigh any potential for corrosion.

Once your RD7 arrives you might need to rethink whether you need anything more than the Ranger. The only reason my Ranger doesn’t see more work is because of the Busses, Swamp Rats, and CRKs I regularly use.

 

[josywales3]

Good point about the rust. I have a 3M product for spraying hand tools, etc. You can actually spray it into the electrical components of a power saw with no harm, residue, etc. It drys to the touch and you don't know it's on there.

Can't wait for the RD7 to show up. Justin has been great.

 

[Leighman]

Former Intrepid owner here. No issues with corrosion just that the knife itself was too heavy (for me) and the non-serrated portion of the cutting edge (tanto version, not blunt tip) was NOT very sharp from the factory, in fact, it was rather dull. As for the "chisel" part of the spine, I never had a use for that. IMO, not the model I would pick for SHTF. I would much rather have a SOG 2000 than the Buck.
Last summer, I left a KA-BAR Next Generation knife at a deer camp. It sat in wet grass for 2 weeks (3 days of heavy rain), it had been run over by a 4-wheeler and was pretty cruddy but cleaned up well (Flitz polish) and had zero corrosion. For the money (under 75 bucks), you may want to look at one(mine was the non-D2 tool steel version).

 

[knifetester]

NO stianless knife should be relied on for very hard use, aka SHTF as substantial prying ability may be needed. For this use Stainless steels, even the decently tough (for stainless) 420HC steel (IIRCis on the Intrepid) is a pretty poor choice.

You would probably be best served with a knife made from a solid spring steel, like 5160, or a bearing steel like 52100.

In the 7" class, the real stand outs in my mind are the Ranger RD7 and the Swamp Rat Camp Tramp. Both are reasonably priced, absurdly tough.

Since you have an RD7 on the way, this is good news
for you.

The RD7 is more overbuilt, and so is probably better for truly abusive situations, i.e. cutting through metal, severe lateral strain and prying.

The Camp Tramp is still very, very tough yet is built more for cutting ability. Note, this is all relative, compared to most knives the ST is a "hardcore" knife, not a pure cutting tool. Kinda like saying the Humvee has a nice ride because it is smoother than a Bradley Armored Vehicle.

Check out Cliff Stamp's review of the Camp Tramp, and posts on the RD7 including on Justin's site.

I'll keep the RD7 for camp no matter what, but I really only want to keep one 7" TSHTF knife...

The RD7 is the pinacle SHTF knife.

knife would be left to sit, until it ws needed so rust resistant would be mandatory.

Oil the RD7.

For most camp use, you are probably better off using a more precise cutting tool, such as the Mora 2000.

If you are talking heavy camp use (splitting large kindling, hammering spikes with the spine, cuttting bone, etc) then the Camp tramp is probably a better choice.

 

[Cliff Stamp]

...I have a Ranger RD7 on the way...

That sounds more suitable. In regards to corrosion, this isn't a problem with blades waiting to be used, just put some lard on them. On the plus side, you can then butter your toast with just your blade.

-Cliff

 

[Lil Timmy]

NO stianless knife should be relied on for very hard use, aka SHTF as substantial prying ability may be needed. For this use Stainless steels, even the decently tough (for stainless) 420HC steel (IIRCis on the Intrepid) is a pretty poor choice.

You would probably be best served with a knife made from a solid spring steel, like 5160, or a bearing steel like 52100.

In the 7" class, the real stand outs in my mind are the Ranger RD7 and the Swamp Rat Camp Tramp. Both are reasonably priced, absurdly tough.

Since you have an RD7 on the way, this is good news
for you.

The RD7 is more overbuilt, and so is probably better for truly abusive situations, i.e. cutting through metal, severe lateral strain and prying.

The Camp Tramp is still very, very tough yet is built more for cutting ability. Note, this is all relative, compared to most knives the ST is a "hardcore" knife, not a pure cutting tool. Kinda like saying the Humvee has a nice ride because it is smoother than a Bradley Armored Vehicle.

Check out Cliff Stamp's review of the Camp Tramp, and posts on the RD7 including on Justin's site.


The RD7 is the pinacle SHTF knife.



Oil the RD7.

For most camp use, you are probably better off using a more precise cutting tool, such as the Mora 2000.

If you are talking heavy camp use (splitting large kindling, hammering spikes with the spine, cuttting bone, etc) then the Camp tramp is probably a better choice.

Is this Cliff's 2nd account? Ranger Knives, Camp Tramp and Mora 2000?

Also, why would 52100 or 5160 be any better at prying then 420HC? As long as both blades were of the same thickness, wouldn't the softer steel be more flexible, less brittle, and therefore less likely to break or snap the tip off during prying?

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Is this Cliff's 2nd account?

You are forgetting Busse, it has to be at least the third.

Also, why would 52100 or 5160 be any better at prying then 420HC?

Because it can be stiffer while being more ductile, it also takes impacts better which is nice for prybars as often we have to hit them to drive them into material. 420HC is decent for that work for a stainless steel, but not compared to carbon steels.

-Cliff

 

[josywales3]

Thanks everyone. I'm pretty anxious to get the RD7 and should have it by week's end. I recommended it on another post, based simply on Justin's excellent service. I know now that no matter what happens, in the end, Justin will give me the knife I want (edge, ground, etc.). And you just can't put a price on that.

Cliff, I think I read your ground and edge recommendations on another post for a Busse and that's what I used as a base for the RD7. Flat ground, if I remember correctly. But again, if I don't like it, it won't cost me much to have Justin modify it.

The other thing I like about using the RD7 for if TSHTF is that by using it around camp, etc., I'll develop good habits and technique with it. Perhaps I need two!!!

 

[Cliff Stamp]

...by using it around camp, etc., I'll develop good habits and technique with it.

Yes, I would never just jam a knife away without using it. Even very well made knives want some use, it will only get better as you learn how to use it optimally. Plus, no matter the maker, I would never depend on a knife that I had not extensively used.

-Cliff

 

[knifetester]

Because it can be stiffer while being more ductile, it also takes impacts better which is nice for prybars as often we have to hit them to drive them into material. 420HC is decent for that work for a stainless steel, but not compared to carbon steels.

Pretty much exactly what I was gonna write.

Plus, no matter the maker, I would never depend on a knife that I had not extensively used.

Precisely. Which is why a maker who has good QC will stand by his work, like Justin, is so important. I don't trust a knife to pry out a knot unless I have done it. I don't trust an edge not to fail when hitting an inclusion unless it has. So when makers say their knoves will do something, then won't warranty damage if it fails doing the same inspire so little confidence in their products.

This is the thing that impressed me most when I first started talking to Bill Martino. He was like, if something goes wrong I will replace the blade no matter what.

Even very well made knives want some use, it will only get better as you learn how to use it optimally.

That is my perspective as well.

 

[Cliff Stamp]

So when makers say their knoves will do something, then won't warranty damage if it fails doing the same inspire so little confidence in their products.

I never understood why anyone would pay attention to product claims that are not supported.

What impressed me initially about Justin was that he has a review on his webpage which isn't a simple fluff piece showcasing the areas of optimal performance. The knife is used for a lot of things, some it does well and some it doesn't. He is clear about it and doesn't try to imply otherwise.

You really can't ask any more from a maker that they do the best they can, make a dedicated effort to let you know what that actually means to you the user, and be willing to work with you so you get the best knife they can make for you based on what you need/want.

-Cliff