Buck Model 119 question re. tang and guard

[MG_Saldivar]

I recently purchased my first Buck 119 and my initial impression is very positive, although I have yet to use it in the field, which leads me to my concern: at the point where the blade meets the crossguard, there are what I will call "hairline cavities."

In other words, where the blade meets the crossguard, the spine-side and edge-side of the tang is flush agains the guard, but on the obverse and reverse side, the blade and guard are far enough apart for me to insert something the thickness of a sheet of paper, perhaps even a playing card (say, a width of 1/32"). I'm concerned because I know that if moisture (say, after dressing game) ever gets inside the grip, it could theoretically begin to corrode the tang.

(1) Am I being paranoid? Would simply using a blow drier or taking whatever steps necessary to dry any moisture inside the grip be sufficient?

(2) Has anyone ever observed problems with moisture getting into the grip of a 119 or similar knife?

I guess if it keeps bugging me, I can try to seal the cavities with some kind of epoxy or other 'gunk...'

 

[Mick57]

I recently purchased my first Buck 119 and my initial impression is very positive, although I have yet to use it in the field, which leads me to my concern: at the point where the blade meets the crossguard, there are what I will call "hairline cavities."

In other words, where the blade meets the crossguard, the spine-side and edge-side of the tang is flush agains the guard, but on the obverse and reverse side, the blade and guard are far enough apart for me to insert something the thickness of a sheet of paper, perhaps even a playing card (say, a width of 1/32"). I'm concerned because I know that if moisture (say, after dressing game) ever gets inside the grip, it could theoretically begin to corrode the tang.

(1) Am I being paranoid? Would simply using a blow drier or taking whatever steps necessary to dry any moisture inside the grip be sufficient?

(2) Has anyone ever observed problems with moisture getting into the grip of a 119 or similar knife?

I guess if it keeps bugging me, I can try to seal the cavities with some kind of epoxy or other 'gunk...'

I've noticed that myself on the 119 (& other models) & wondered the same thing. I never lost any sleep over it, but frankly don't think that gap should be there. I've seen other's that didn't have any gaps at all. So my guess is it's either within Buck's tolerances, or it slipped by QC. Maybe someone from Buck (Joe or Josh) can give us the scoop.

 

[Joe Houser]

I am not comletely sure i understand where this gap is occurring on your knife. I can say that in all my years in the warrantee department, i have never seen a 119 come in broken inside the handle due to rust. Having said that though, if the gap is out of our accepted tolerance, we need to fix it for you. If possible, could you email me a clear close up of the area? I should be able to tell then if it is something we need to be concerned with and I can tell you how to proceed from that point.
Take care,

 

[MG_Saldivar]

After closer examination, I found that my alarm was unwarranted. I apologize for causing confusion. My note to Joe Houser is appended below.

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Dear Mr. Houser:

I'm writing in response to your post on the Buck forun at bladeforums.com -- I had posted a thread about a gap between the sides of the blade on my 119 and the crossguard (photo attached).

I re-examined the knife today under a bright halogen lamp and, to my embarrassment, I think my initial impressions were incorrect. The gap looks deeper/wider than it really is because of how light reflects off the blade and crossguard. After closely examining the "gaps" and actually trying to insert the corner of a sheet of typing paper, I saw that the paper literally bounced off. The dark "gap" is just an optical illusion, as I further verified when I attempted the simple experiment of dribbling a few drops of water on the "gap" -- the water beaded up and rolled right off.

 

[Mick57]

After closer examination, I found that my alarm was unwarranted. I apologize for causing confusion. My note to Joe Houser is appended below.

***********************



Dear Mr. Houser:

I'm writing in response to your post on the Buck forun at bladeforums.com -- I had posted a thread about a gap between the sides of the blade on my 119 and the crossguard (photo attached).

I re-examined the knife today under a bright halogen lamp and, to my embarrassment, I think my initial impressions were incorrect. The gap looks deeper/wider than it really is because of how light reflects off the blade and crossguard. After closely examining the "gaps" and actually trying to insert the corner of a sheet of typing paper, I saw that the paper literally bounced off. The dark "gap" is just an optical illusion, as I further verified when I attempted the simple experiment of dribbling a few drops of water on the "gap" -- the water beaded up and rolled right off.

Think you're right, after looking at a 119 & a couple of 124's closer. The gap is more apparent on the 124's. But I tried sticking a corner of paper in there & it didn't go very far. (about 1/16-1/32") It's just the way the guard is cut to fit the blade. Certainly nothing lose any sleep over. Sorry Joe.