Buck sharpening question

C

Crockus

Joined
Feb 16, 2010
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278
What is the factory sharpening angle on 110s and 112s. I have a few I need sharpen.
 
I have 2 dot 112(dont know exact year), 4 dot 110(1982 for sure) and current production models of both.
 
On your current models use a 15* and on the 2 and 4 dot try a 17-18* . Does your sharpening system allow you to rebevel ? Perhaps, your system will allow you to match these angles . DM
 
I use a lansky system, it allows for 17 degrees max, so it sounds like the new ones will match the old ones at around 17 when Im done. Thanks for the quick and helpful info.
 
Don't rely too much on the 'angle' markings on the Lansky clamp. Those marked angles will only be accurate if your blade happens to be of the same dimensions as the 'imaginary' blade profile used to designate those angles when the clamp was designed (mainly, the width of the blade from spine to edge, and the overall length of the blade). The positioning of the blade in the clamp (closer to/further from the edge, centered lengthwise or not, etc.) will also have a large impact on the true sharpening angle.

If you're trying to match the original bevel, the best thing would be to mark the bevel with a Sharpie to blacken it, then adjust the position of the clamp & hone so that it's removing the black only from the original bevel. Even then, you probably won't be able to match it exactly (for the reasons noted above).
 
Thanks for the tips, I really need to practice and get good at free hand sharping.
 
The Lansky can put a great edge on your knife. I've used it to rebevel a bunch of knives. Never worried about, or even measured, what the 'true' finished angle was. My preference has been for more acute bevels than most factory edges, so I've normally just used the lowest setting on the clamp. If you haven't used the Lansky much or at all yet, you might practice with another 'inexpensive' knife (or two or three knives), with a blade size/profile that's similar to your Buck's. That'll give you some idea of how to position the clamp and choose an angle setting that gives you the bevel you want. Just take your time, use light pressure, and closely inspect the edge under magnification as you work. So long as you don't rush things, you'll likely be pleased with the finished result.
 
Dave: I agree with my friend David. Thanks for your insights into the Lansky System. One of the best and clear explanations I have read and heard. I have used a sharpie, but you re-inforced the need for patience and the use of magnification to observe the edge during the process. Thanks.
 
HonkerRusty said:
Dave: I agree with my friend David. Thanks for your insights into the Lansky System. One of the best and clear explanations I have read and heard. I have used a sharpie, but you re-inforced the need for patience and the use of magnification to observe the edge during the process. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the kind words (you too, David M.).

I know many of the sharpening nuts here on BF don't care for the guided systems, short of the pricey EdgePro/Wicked Edge, anyway. They can be pretty tedious to set up & get comfortable with. But, I personally learned a LOT about sharpening while getting acquainted with my Lansky & GATCO systems. I emphasized patience, light pressure & close inspection because it applies across the board, no matter the method of choice. I realized this at some point while learning the Lansky. The nice thing about the guided systems, in my opinion, is that if you are patient & careful, they'll reward you with a really good edge. And the finished result goes a long way toward demonstrating the importance of maintaining a consistent angle. I never knew how 'off' my freehand technique was, at the time, until I saw the edge produced by a guided system. That REALLY motivated me to keep refining my skills & learning new methods. So, I'm glad that I went down that path, so to speak.
 
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I have a Blade Masters system offered thru Smokey Mountain its similiar to the GATCO .
I've used it in the past and got some good edges with it . Yet one still needs a good strop . Plus, your very correct in that the key is a consistent angle how ever one does it and the quality of the stone has a play in it too . DM
 
A trick I use with my Lansky is to place a piece of tape on the spot the clamp is going. The strop is very important in the end.
 
I just watched the instruction video for the Lansky. So now, my question is: Does it really work as easy as they make it seem? And more importantly, does it do a good job of sharpening? I do realize that, as with most things, it will probably take some practice. It seems so easy and affordable that there should be a catch somewhere...

Thanks y'all

Jim
 
The Lansky is like everything else, practice, practice. I have had mine for over three years and have sharpened many knives. My stones are even getting worn down. I like it and have repaired many knives I have "won" off the bay. Have a guy at work that was always talking about the Lansky and a couple of weeks ago he bought one. All he does is talk about how sharp it gets his knives. I like mine and endorse it.
 
I seem to be able to a pretty good job with my lansky. The only thing I would say is if you get the regular one you may wanna pick up an ultra fine stone.
 
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