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Buck stacked leather disk question...

Joined
Aug 5, 2005
Messages
5,527
Anyone out there (Buck employees or aftermarket manglers) who re-grips fixed blade Bucks with leather disks...what do you use to grind/turn down the disks to get the desired grip contour??? :confused:

I've only done one leather disk re-grip, using a lathe to turn the entire knife and a coarse wood rasp to contour the leather disks...(It's an old M-16 bayonet blade with homemade brass pommel & guard)...but I wasn't happy with the way it came out... :grumpy:

I've now come into an older knife with stacked leather disks, but from time, wear, & use they've lost their contour...I'd like to try reshaping the existing disks first, before dismantling it and replacing with new disks...(and all that involves)... :rolleyes:

How do you shape yours??? :)
 
:cool:...Trax I've done a "rework" job on an old Craftsman fixed blade more than a few years ago. It had a few gouges and the finish had worn off pretty bad. The discs were very tight and solid though. I used a belt sander and a drum sander to redo the form to my liking and sealed it up with good ol' Elmer's wood glue. ( I didn't know what Min-wax wood hardener could do then ) The belt and drum worked great for me...There's gotta be some "true craftsman" out there who might be able to help a lot more than I can...:eek::p:cool:
 
When you guys say "belt sander", are you talking about what we/I call a "ribbon sander"??? One with a 1" or 2" belt, as opposed to a 4" or 6" belt??? :confused:

And what kind of a "buffer" do you use on leather???
 
I use my 2" x 72" sander from Grizzly, and a 3600 rpm or 1850 rpm buffer with some type of compound, after staining the leather. Sometimes just mink oil and then a muslim buffing pad.
 
FWIW, thats what Buck used. Belt sanders and buffing wheels. The sanders we use are, if I remember right, 2-3"X132". We start out with a heavier grit to do the rough shaping then progress down from there.
We use a hard cotton wheel loaded with compound for the final buffing.
 
FWIW, thats what Buck used. Belt sanders and buffing wheels. The sanders we use are, if I remember right, 2-3"X132". We start out with a heavier grit to do the rough shaping then progress down from there.
We use a hard cotton wheel loaded with compound for the final buffing.

hummm that is worth knowing !!!:thumbup:
now were is that surpluss equiptment place...
 
Joe is right about the belt size. There is two different wheels used, one being the 6" rubber for the ruff shape (120 grit), and for the final shape a slack belt is used with 2" wheels used on the top and bottom leaving about a 14" area in between the wheels for the belt to conform to the handle (220 grit). Just a side note, a 3M ScotchBrite 8s wheel does a good job getting the leather to the buffing point (need some kind of compound for this operation or you WILL burn the leather:mad:). It is good to add something to the leather (Elmer's glue, super glue, I like the min-wax wood hardener idea) Just something to stabilize the leather, because when you buff it, the leather gets dirty from the compound, and the only way to get it clean is to go back over it with 220grit.
 
...Ummmmm...So are all Buck factory stacked-disk leather grips sanded/ground [whatever] done by hand??? Or is there a special fixture to hold and turn the knife while sanding/buffing the leather??? (One that produces the actual curvature of the grip)... :confused:
 
They are all hand made and shaped. there are also only a few select people that have the actual skills to make a well shaped handle.
 
Hey Trax, I know nothing of the repair process but would like to see a pic...

Here it is...Whatdya think???...Try to sand/buff it down, or order new disks and start afresh??? :confused:

(At times like this, I ask myself..."What would Marvin Finden do if he were here right now???...Blame Canada!!!...Blame Canada!!!...) :D
 
It looks to me like someone tried to epoxy-resin the ends, and then buff down the middle...plus scratches, gouges, etc... :grumpy:
 
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